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Discussion Starter · #101 · (Edited)
Failed smog test:mad: two codes, OBD EVAP and OXY SNSR HEAT. Tech said to drive some more and come back, he thinks it will pass. Non the less I'm bummed as I have been trying to smog since Aug. 2015.

There is more BAD JEEP problems. I drove to the country Walmart and parked. Came out and the Jeep started but the auto shift lever flopped back and forth as if disconnected and would not go into gear.

Cell phone googled the problem and again found it is a common Jeep auto trans fail... cable connection from shifter to lever falls apart:mad:

Crawled under the Jeep in deep melting snow and saw the cable hanging and at the end a donut opening off the levers stud. No locking mechanism for the cable connection in sight. Safety wired the cable to the lever and got home. Loosing the love for the Jeep fellows!

Put on my code checker and no codes so maybe I should have driven just a few more miles before the smog test. Had about 120 miles which should have been enough. I'll try again in a couple days if the Jeep doesn't fall apart:(

At the risk of boring you guys to death I will continue this thread since it started because this Rubicon could not pass the smog test. On the way the Jeep has been failing parts and in all cases it is a known fail point on these Jeeps. My intent is still to provide useful information for other Jeep owners and hope that is what this is.
 

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I know that there's a post on Jeep Forum (and here on ROF, IIRC) concerning modding the auto trans cable connection at the trans. It's simple and cheap to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 · (Edited)
About the shift cable... Thanks Black Rubi, information I need will and be looking. What is ROF and IIRC? If anyone has a link let me know.

So far from other forums the fix is buy a new cable from the dealer since you can't buy the connector alone.

BTW from reading the connector is just junk plastic the deteriorates over time. What is Chrysler doing making a critical part out of cheap plastic that can fail. I have had the Jeep in steep mountain trails that if this happened then I would be screwed and endangered.

I'm really questioning Chrysler's design/build:(
 

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About the shift cable... Thanks Black Rubi, information I need will and be looking. What is ROF and IIRC? If anyone has a link let me know.
ROF is the forum you're on: Rubicon Owners Forum
IIRC translates to: If I Remember Correctly

As for the link go to Google and type in: "Jeep auto transmission modification" and look for a link from Jeep Forum.

For a link at ROF go to their "search" box and type in the same terms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 · (Edited)
thanks I'll be on it.

Is this replacement bushing of the auto trans that I need? I'd call and ask but they are closed now.
http://www.quadratec.com/products/12521_9002.htm

Oh, another fail I forgot to share! Drove the Rubicon off road and put on the lockers... But no locker light and don't think the lockers were engaged. Have not checked anything out yet because of so many other fails. What should I check first for no locker light?

Again this Jeep build design failure is getting to me:(
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 · (Edited)
Lockers are ok described the problem in another thread.

But another new problem:( If you have been following and are getting tired of this just think of my suffering, man I just want to pass smog. Still the PCM is in question.

Present action, I'm driving my Rubicon on back roads to get some miles for the computer to gather data so I can pass smog. Today started the Jeep and plugged in the code checker. The RPM instantly shot up to 2800 and would not come down.

I turned the engine off, still high on start up, drove around my property at high RPM and still wouldn't settle down.

So out the back gate on dirt to a country road and off I go with the throttle going up and staying up. Would not try this in town! At 60 mph let off and the engine RPM kept the Jeep going at 60. Tried different speeds and throttle acted like it was set with the speed control. Played with the speed control and no change. Did this after start and stop for 10 miles or so.

Finally found that if I hit the brakes hard the RPM would drop down as if I was braking with speed control on. The idle would drop to 1200 or so but throttling up the RPM would not come down and stay at my max speed. So weird.

Now this is going on with or with out the OBD2 tool plugged in.

Anyone have any experience with the RPM's going up and out of control after plugging in an OBD2 diagnostic tool? BTW I use this tool on other vehicles with no problems so believe this is the Jeep not the tool.
 

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Lockers are ok described the problem in another thread.

But another new problem:( If you have been following and are getting tired of this just think of my suffering, man I just want to pass smog. Still the PCM is in question.

Present action, I'm driving my Rubicon on back roads to get some miles for the computer to gather data so I can pass smog. Today started the Jeep and plugged in the code checker. The RPM instantly shot up to 2800 and would not come down.

I turned the engine off, still high on start up, drove around my property at high RPM and still wouldn't settle down.

So out the back gate on dirt to a country road and off I go with the throttle going up and staying up. Would not try this in town! At 60 mph let off and the engine RPM kept the Jeep going at 60. Tried different speeds and throttle acted like it was set with the speed control. Played with the speed control and no change. Did this after start and stop for 10 miles or so.

Finally found that if I hit the brakes hard the RPM would drop down as if I was braking with speed control on. The idle would drop to 1200 or so but throttling up the RPM would not come down and stay at my max speed. So weird.

Now this is going on with or with out the OBD2 tool plugged in.

Anyone have any experience with the RPM's going up and out of control after plugging in an OBD2 diagnostic tool? BTW I use this tool on other vehicles with no problems so believe this is the Jeep not the tool.
Sounds like IAC solenoid.
When was the last time the valve was cleaned? Throttle body cleaned?
PCM sets a reference for IAC at start. If the valve is stuck the reference will be off. I would start with the IAC and cleaning the throttle body before looking elsewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 · (Edited)
Sounds like IAC solenoid.
When was the last time the valve was cleaned? Throttle body cleaned?
PCM sets a reference for IAC at start. If the valve is stuck the reference will be off. I would start with the IAC and cleaning the throttle body before looking elsewhere.
Thanks SteveVB

Will test ride again and see if this weird problem continues today. If so will clean the IAC.

Found a Utube video on the procedure for a 1991, same for my 2005?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwO3k0Up_bw

Just a note, information on the net says that the PCM controls the IAC so the PCM is still not cleared:( and this is what this thread was started for.

And Importantly the idle was normal until I plugged in the OBD2 tool. Plus the problem is the throttle stays stuck at highway speeds and can be dropped down only by hitting the brakes hard. Seems something other than just a sticky IAC although this is a good starting point to track down the problem.
 

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And Importantly the idle was normal until I plugged in the OBD2 tool.
I don't know what the scan tools provide in the way of signals back to the CPU, but if you plugged in the scanner and the problem appears I would start with the scanner - I missed when I read before that you plugged in the scanner and the problem occurred. I would suspect some signal from the scanner set something in the cpu. May need to reset and see if problem recurs.
Ive always plugged the scanner in engine off... are you saying you plugged it in while the engine was running?
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
Yes, plugged in the OBD2 while the engine was running.

Another note that this second replacement PCM from the Chrysler dealer threw codes, lost signal from transmission and dash gage cluster when I plugged in the OBD2.

Cleared these and ended up getting O2 sensor codes and back to the dealer to replace all O2 sensors to clear codes. And also replace OPDA.

I am using a different OBD2 tool now in fear the other one was defective.

Just test drove and some change in the sticky throttle, it's doing it less and idles normal.

Throttle still sticks when I floor the throttle and speed up fast and hold say 60 MPH. When I let off it still stays at that RPM and speed:( Go to neutral and RPM stays up high. In gear, slam on the brakes hard and RPM goes down to normal. Yesterday the RPM went down but stayed high around 1800 so improving today as it goes to normal idle

Under the hood all looks normal. One more thing...this started after the shift cable came off and I safety wired it back on. Could there be a reason that might cause this or is it a coincidence.
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 · (Edited)
OP new information:

The Jeep passed the smog test. Now I can legally drive it:)

Also on the last drive the sticky throttle is gone except when I floor it, but braking makes it go back to normal much quicker and easier. The throttle is changing for the better, maybe the PCM is working on it?

Wow! $2800, many trips to the shop and five months of working on this gigantic series of Chrysler parts failures just may be over. But again it's a Chrysler product, better just be happy I'm back on the road.

I very much appreciate your advice and help. Having the Rubicon forum to share my problems and ask for help has tremendously help me beyond my ability to express. Thank You

My Chrysler dig... if by some chance a Chrysler executive reads this and just might want to improve their image, just maybe, may lead to Chrysler making better parts and supporting their customers better. I can try anyway.
 

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Don't know if this means anything at this point but the instructions for my scan tool says in bold letters " do not connect or disconnect this OBD scanner with engine running or ignition on". FWIW.

Glad you passed smog.
 

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Glad it smogged for you.

I checked mine and it says connect with ignition off. Ive always connected/disconnected scanners ignition off.

If you have been connecting these with the vehicle running I would make the suggestion to change your method. It could be the root of your CPU problems.
A reset may speed up the restoration of the engines parameters, if not it sounds like it is relearning the idle each engine on cycle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
You are right. Asked the mechanic and said the same, should always hook up with the engine off. Who knows maybe I killed my original PCM.

The mechanic said hooking it up with engine running shouldn't hurt but I will never do that again.
 

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I have the same exact problem. I am an owner of a 2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. I replaced the PCM through the dealer, but getting the same codes, of all O2's bad. My mechanic is now looking at possible ground issue.
 

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had the 4 bad O2 codes - resolved. - 2006 wrangler unlimited rubicon with 4 liter 6 cyl
first weird thing is my jeep has only 2 sensors, not 4. So I immediately suspected things other than the sensors.
checked wiring for shorts or melting from exhaust, no probs
checked for clooged cat - showed no signs so told myself thats not it
looked for bad fuse or relay, even moved ADC relay into horn position and tested fine
wanted to check everything before contemplating re-soldering the PCM connectors - was not looking forward to trying that unless last ditch effort
noticed that the cable connection closest to driver side slid in and out with ease, the other 2 were very difficult to remove. McGiver'd a solution to press on all 3 connectors - no code for 70 miles so far
 

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had the 4 bad O2 codes - resolved. - 2006 wrangler unlimited rubicon with 4 liter 6 cyl
first weird thing is my jeep has only 2 sensors, not 4. So I immediately suspected things other than the sensors.
checked wiring for shorts or melting from exhaust, no probs
checked for clooged cat - showed no signs so told myself thats not it
looked for bad fuse or relay, even moved ADC relay into horn position and tested fine
wanted to check everything before contemplating re-soldering the PCM connectors - was not looking forward to trying that unless last ditch effort
noticed that the cable connection closest to driver side slid in and out with ease, the other 2 were very difficult to remove. McGiver'd a solution to press on all 3 connectors - no code for 70 miles so far
A guy has to do what a guy has to do.>:)

I would take it a step further and use a block that only presses on one connector at a time. Just because it looks like the obvious solution doesn't necessarily mean it is.
Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
My 06 rubicon lj shows a engine check light code Bank 1 Sensor 2 P0141 code any solutions to troubleshoot this problem
Welcome landmarktravel

Found this for ya https://www.yourmechanic.com/articl...it-malfunction-bank-1-sensor-2-by-jay-safford

I am no expert but my Rubicon with 120,000 miles will throw engine codes when I am on a long drive and have a long incline climb at highway speeds. I have been successful clearing the codes and they don't reappear until the next trip.

I have a replacement computer, new O2's, OPDA, plugs and wires and lots of engine analysis in the shop. My engine codes have not shown a real fault and I get different codes from engine to transfer case.

I have read that the 05/06 4.0 engine computer and associated sensors are just glitchy. Check engine lights may not be a real problem but It's just that the computer gets a reading outside its accepted parameters.

I really don't know if this is correct but I'm inclined to believe it. On my last expedition ride, all 3 TJ's along had engine codes showing up and a couple of JKU's as well.

Anyway, I would clear the codes with a code reader and if that doesn't work disconnect battery for a little while. If the O2 codes come back it may be time to replace all 4 O2 sensors.
 
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