[SteveVB]

Yes NTK is MOPAR OEM.

I would check the ground straps first clean/replace.

Those codes are resistance related so I would guess grounds but ...since you had one code before you changed sensor and multiple after I would check wiring , things you touched.

Check the sensor you changed make sure those wires didn't get twisted together. Ive pulled a couple out that were connected then screwed in twisting the wiring, one pulled out of a connector. Screw it in then connect it. The connectors are a pain in the ass and pulling on and moving the wires around can crack or pull on wires and connectors

 

[SteveVB]

Yes the heater circuit fuse is an excellent possibility, I was just looking at that. Check fuse in power distribution block on fender its a 15 amp and noted in my fsm as #16 (mines a 2004 FSM)

The relay for the heater circuit is in that box also which is another possibility.

ill look for the ground connection location for you. ground straps are just connections to the engine or components to ensure the ground path for the electrical system. The most prominent easy to see example is the flat strap from firewall to hood.

The ground connections for the harness with he o2s is on the pass side of engine just rear of the distributor/cam shaft module eyelet comes out of harness and attaches to engine block.

 

[SteveVB]

Some similarities in this thread. Deals with wiring harness I believe.

http://www.rubiconownersforum.com/forums/19-general-tech/70113-2004-2006-pcm-lifetime-warranty.html

I'm looking at it for my 06 which is giving a IM code of not ready. It may be worthwhile to run the test and point this out to dealer they may have forgotten about it or not have checked.

 

[SteveVB]

Daveys Jeep parts might be a source for a used PCM unit- worth a call.

Did you check the recall service bulletin I posted earlier?

 

[SteveVB]

Can this Jeep PCM problem get worse, Yes it can and it has.

Took the Jeep into the dealer and the nice service guy that got me to bring in the Jeep had down cast eyes and didn't want to talk to me and I was sent down to another service guy. He listen to me but made little connection to situation and history of the Jeep problem. He just wanted me to leave the Jeep and go. I didn't know then but I was being manipulated and set up.

Today, this second service guy called me after the shop analysis and said he recommended all O2 sensors be replaced... to start.

But wait, I wanted to know "what if's" and discuss the PCM as possibly being bad and their shops responsibility and promised guarantee since I just paid for analysis, a new PCM, all costing $1250.00 and promised this would fix it.

Which BTW I fully discussed with the first service man before any work was done and I was assured their shop knew what to do and would back up their work. How wrong, it appears, I was in believing him.

The discussion went on with the second service guy until I realized he was the guy that people are sent to when the dealers repairs don't fix the problem. He is the stone wall! Essentially he told me I was going to pay for all parts and time regardless of the situation. He also said if the PCM they put in was bad it was shorted out by my Jeep after I picked it up.

Holy ripoff, I'm so pissed.

He said if I didn't like what he was telling me I could come and pick up the Jeep and go away I still insisted on fair treatment and he then said I should talk to the service manage but read reviews about him and he was discribed as another real jerk.

So here I go again. Jeep is throwing the check engine light and can't get it to pass smog. Now I have to deal with another outfit that apparently can't analyze a problem and fix a problem but resorts to changing out parts until it is fixed with the cost going to the consumer... me

Where is the quality, honesty and just plain moral decency? So far it isn't at this Dealer, Carson Dodge Chrysler Jeep.

I'm not done. I am going to drive down tomorrow, over 60 miles one way and talk with the service manager and also make an appointment with the owner. Such a bummer, again. Just tire of this.

Another note... owner is lost in a corporation. Found the president but searching only found a front company with no address. Man am I screwed

Dealership service people can be difficult.

I would get a regional manufacturers rep involved, see if they have some other remedies. I've had problems the past with another make and the regional rep could bring in a decent technician/ trouble shooter to get things done.
Good Luck

 

[SteveVB]

I think with the problems you had with the CPUs that you would want the dealer to ok the replacement and set it accurately so there are no questions when it comes to computer problems and codes.

 

[SteveVB]

If anyone has a knowledge of what is happening when the OPDA is off like this please let me know. I am assuming it is being read by the PCM to coordinate the fueling with the timing but I don't know.

I'm just a hobby/novice but as I understand it you are correct... . The cam sensor in the OPDA is used to communicate valve timing(opening/closing) so that the fuel injectors are firing relative to valve opening.

The timing is controlled by the crankshaft position sensor located on the on the bell housing reading off the flywheel. Timing fires the spark plugs when the piston gets to TDC(or so)


Since yours runs better advanced, both before the swap and after, that means at "factory setting" the CPS is late delivering the fuel. The valves are closing and not letting enough fuel into the chamber and would give the effect of low fuel pressure or running out of gas- no power under load etc.

why that's happening I'm not sure.
Could be the relationship between the camshaft and the crank is off- any work done to engine?
Could be the mapping relationships in the CPU.
I'm wondering if there is some conflict between the Cam and crank sensor either mechanical or logic.
Since you can "correct" it mechanically by advancing the ODPA, it could be mechanical- a timing chain/ a tooth off, maybe stretched, or the opda might be a gear tooth off on reinstall.
Not sure if that is helpful, just some thoughts.

 

[SteveVB]

Lockers are ok described the problem in another thread.

But another new problem If you have been following and are getting tired of this just think of my suffering, man I just want to pass smog. Still the PCM is in question.

Present action, I'm driving my Rubicon on back roads to get some miles for the computer to gather data so I can pass smog. Today started the Jeep and plugged in the code checker. The RPM instantly shot up to 2800 and would not come down.

I turned the engine off, still high on start up, drove around my property at high RPM and still wouldn't settle down.

So out the back gate on dirt to a country road and off I go with the throttle going up and staying up. Would not try this in town! At 60 mph let off and the engine RPM kept the Jeep going at 60. Tried different speeds and throttle acted like it was set with the speed control. Played with the speed control and no change. Did this after start and stop for 10 miles or so.

Finally found that if I hit the brakes hard the RPM would drop down as if I was braking with speed control on. The idle would drop to 1200 or so but throttling up the RPM would not come down and stay at my max speed. So weird.

Now this is going on with or with out the OBD2 tool plugged in.

Anyone have any experience with the RPM's going up and out of control after plugging in an OBD2 diagnostic tool? BTW I use this tool on other vehicles with no problems so believe this is the Jeep not the tool.

Sounds like IAC solenoid.
When was the last time the valve was cleaned? Throttle body cleaned?
PCM sets a reference for IAC at start. If the valve is stuck the reference will be off. I would start with the IAC and cleaning the throttle body before looking elsewhere.

 

[SteveVB]

And Importantly the idle was normal until I plugged in the OBD2 tool.

I don't know what the scan tools provide in the way of signals back to the CPU, but if you plugged in the scanner and the problem appears I would start with the scanner - I missed when I read before that you plugged in the scanner and the problem occurred. I would suspect some signal from the scanner set something in the cpu. May need to reset and see if problem recurs.
Ive always plugged the scanner in engine off... are you saying you plugged it in while the engine was running?

 

[SteveVB]

Glad it smogged for you.

I checked mine and it says connect with ignition off. Ive always connected/disconnected scanners ignition off.

If you have been connecting these with the vehicle running I would make the suggestion to change your method. It could be the root of your CPU problems.
A reset may speed up the restoration of the engines parameters, if not it sounds like it is relearning the idle each engine on cycle.

 

[SteveVB]

I did have a loose negative battery clamp but I don't think that fixed it.

I wouldn't rule this out. If the clamp was loose that can cause some problems - clamp is the first link in the ground system... A good ground is very important to PCM and sensor functions.