Three years on the JB Weld fix and no leaking. I had to reseal the side with the brass fitting.

 

Blaine if you had to limit the tool(s) to one to two what you you get and from whom.
Spend several hours researching this nutsert and came away with more questions than answers.

 

I have one of these that I've been using for over 15 years and have set thousands of nutserts with it.
Look up NCG tools, it is the H2 foldable handle model and it has been flawless. It took 10 years for me to find them again due to me not remembering where I got the first one. I was very worried for a long time that if I broke it I wouldn't be able to get another. Fortunately it has never broken and I now know that Grainger has them.

That would be my choice if I only had to pick one tool.

 

I went with a new brass fitting on my non-screwed up side.

We need a post on AN fittings and nutserts. I think I'd go wild with nutserts if I understood their diameters and such.

 

I went with a new brass fitting on my non-screwed up side.

We need a post on AN fittings and nutserts. I think I'd go wild with nutserts if I understood their diameters and such.

I use many nutserts and several styles. I have at least 3 nutserts setting tools and make many more when the situation requires it.

Nutserts are basic. They are for the most part identical to a "pop" rivet in that the tubular part expands and upsets down around the material you are setting it in on the back face to hold the insert in place. The nice thing about that is as the fastener is tightened it will prevent the insert from working loose under load.

The simple criteria is grip range, hole diameter and thread pitch. The grip range much match the material thickness or you will have problems. The hole diameter is critical to get them to set them correctly and the thread pitch is just so you match what you want to fasten to the fastener.

The standard small setters that look like rivet setters are only okay up to about 1/4" in aluminum and it is a struggle to set the steel versions. After that, you need a lever handle style and I strongly encourage anyone who is going to set more than 10 nutserts to invest in one. Once you have it, you will find more uses for it and the easier it is to use, the more you will use it.

Finally there are the styles of nutserts. They range all the way from thinwall thin material aluminum up to heavy flange high strength steel versions like are used to hold on the belly skid.

I may not be quite an expert but I know a fair bit about them so ask away.

 

In the beginning I emailed Griffin and told them I stripped the threads and it was my fault. I just wanted to know what they thought my options were. They wrote me back regarding sending the radiator back to them or give them a part number. They were actually pleased that I wrote them back with my plan. I sensed they cared. I'm sure my honesty had something to do with that.

A local radiator guy couldn't repair it. He told me the transmission cooler is held inside the radiator with an "O" ring. Welding wouldn't be good for that. I told him my plan.

I was looking for a big, "Don't do that!" My research supported moving forward. We'll see.

I figured out how to do aluminum fittings now - thread sealant, finger snugged, then a slight snug with a wrench.

 

In the beginning I emailed Griffin and told them I stripped the threads and it was my fault. I just wanted to know what they thought my options were. They wrote me back regarding sending the radiator back to them or give them a part number. They were actually pleased that I wrote them back with my plan. I sensed they cared. I'm sure my honesty had something to do with that.

A local radiator guy couldn't repair it. He told me the transmission cooler is held inside the radiator with an "O" ring. Welding wouldn't be good for that. I told him my plan.

I was looking for a big, "Don't do that!" My research supported moving forward. We'll see.

I figured out how to do aluminum fittings now - thread sealant, finger snugged, then a slight snug with a wrench.

I just about had the same issue with a Mishimoto pile of poo. They supply very soft aluminum inverted flare to barb adapters for the cooler in the lower tank. They also weld right up to the lip on the threaded adapter and distort the threads. Soft aluminum fitting felt like it was going in straight and then stopped and kicked over at an angle. Had to turn and pry it out to get it out of there and into the trash.

Went over to the fittings I save and found two nice brass versions from an early TJ radiator and they screwed right in with no issues and cleaned up the threads.

 

Looks like a good repair but obviously it all hinges on the ability of the JB Weld to adhere to the aluminum in a heat-cycling and vibration environment. I have no experience with JB Weld in that regard, but being an epoxy I think that it has the right attributes to do the job.

 

Nice repair!

 

Good show Norm, that should last as long as the radiator.

 

Thanks for checking John.

No leaks! Here's what I did...

I used a flare fitting, a piece of shrink tube, fast set JB Weld, 24hr set JB Weld, and a zip tie. Only the 6min JB Weld is showing.

The shrink tubing acted as a sleeve to keep the tube passage clean and clear. It also acted as a guide to mate the flare parts.

This shows everything lined up. I used the fast JB Weld to tack the flare securely and let it set for an hour. I pulled the shrink tube out after a minute.

The last step was to mix a batch of 24hr JB Weld and use the zip tie to force it in the rest of the void. It looks as if it may be only spread across the top, but it's all the way down and around the tube fitting. The 24hr stuff settles neatly and smooth. I let it cure for 24hr.

 

Any update?

 

If you've taken it to radiator guy they can weld in new fitting.

Been here before- Two things Ive done:
1st. I used some dentil picks and utility blades to hand cut the thread roots to get the nut started on the right root, then thread a nut all the way on.
Second way I chamfered the hole first got rid of the buggered up starting threads. Then I took a tube nut and slit the threads perpendicular to threads. Basically made a tap. Then rethreded the thing- the key is to not cut new threads but just recut the existing.

 

Thanks for the feedback. I left it at a radiator/automotive shop. The radiator skilled guy won't be in till Monday. It's smart for me to let a pro look at it before I do anything more.

Helicoil - I have done this before, but in this case there's that coupling at the bottom of the Griffin part of the fitting and there's not a lot of depth. I don't trust myself at pulling this one off.

JB Weld - I haven't done this before. This would have to seal the flare, the missing threads, and the joint between the nut and the metal line part of the coupling. I'm not sure about remaining threads. I want to give a pro a shot at it before I make it worse. Just in entertaining the idea, I'd probably JB Weld the flare, let that cure and fill in the void with more JB Weld, or maybe add the nut if I could get threads.

Welding - You probably already know this, but I found out that Griffin radiators are manufactured using resin and the heat of welding may compromise the construction of the radiator. Griffin does not like welding on their finished radiators. They say that any welding of brackets and nicknacks should be done earlier in the process.

Worst case scenario is I don't use the oil cooler and plug it. I already have auxiliary cooler installed with a gauge.

Monday's news will be interesting.

 

I'm with Greg. Try helicoiling it. What have you got to loose?

 

Oh no Norm!

I still have that extra thick Griffin that got dinged by my fan clutch, maybe I can use a hacksaw and cut my fitting off - then you can get it Tigged on. Let me know asap - we're leaving tomorrow.

 

I really don't think it would be that hard to cut it off and weld on a new one. Of course you'll need a TIG to do it, but then its fixed right

 

Not without cutting it off and welding

 

I'll probably have to use JB weld.

I'm gathering that fitting cannot be replaced?

 

I have used Teflon tape to get it to seal, jbweld or helicoil it.