My U-joint caps blew on the way to Tellico on the highway before I got to the trail.

 

mine spin like tops...... so axle upgrades are in my future....I'm pretty sure that they will grenade when the GF is riding with me.....on a hot day.... on our way to the outlet mall.....

 

Check to make sure you have not lost the C clips, then upgrade to either AlloyUSA axles or Superior's.

I have lost caps three times. Luckily I saw them before axle damage took place and rep[laced the U joint. I have also seen clips coming out or missing several times but had spares on hand and replaced them.

My AlloyUSA axles should be at the house when I get home from work today. BR:

 

Anyone have a howto for replacing the front ujoints?

 

Nevermind... Google is a great thing...

I assume it's similar to this:
http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARD30shafts297andSeals/D30shafts297andSeals.htm

My main concern was the socket size... Appears to be a 36mm... I'll have to pick one up. No $$ to upgrade to alloys right now, but I will carry the tools, a spare and check it regularly for the next few months...
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mine spin like tops...... so axle upgrades are in my future....I'm pretty sure that they will grenade when the GF is riding with me.....on a hot day.... on our way to the outlet mall.....

Now that was funny !

 

Nevermind... Google is a great thing...

I assume it's similar to this:
http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARD30shafts297andSeals/D30shafts297andSeals.htm

My main concern was the socket size... Appears to be a 36mm... I'll have to pick one up. No $$ to upgrade to alloys right now, but I will carry the tools, a spare and check it regularly for the next few months...
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Actaully, just to replace the front U joints (spicer 5-760X) you don't need to remove the 36 mm nut. Just take out the 3 bolts holding the unit bearing in (13 mm 12 point) and pull the whole thing including the axle. If you have a buddy with a press or U joint tool it is easier but you can just use sockets and a BFH. Pull the c clips, set the yoke on a large socket. It needs to support the yoke but be large enough to let the U joint cap fall through. Then use a socket the size of the cap on the other side and beat it through until the cap comes out, turn it over and knock the other one out, repeat on the other yoke.

 

What are the chances that my the ears on the yoke have spread?

I got lucky today. I took a peek when my wife got home today from running errands. I notice the clip was out about 60%. I tapped it back in, but have concerns about driving till I get this done.

Can I drive on this?

 

What are the chances that my the ears on the yoke have spread?

I got lucky today. I took a peek when my wife got home today from running errands. I notice the clip was out about 60%. I tapped it back in, but have concerns about driving till I get this done.

Can I drive on this?

Unfortunately, it's likely they are stretched some. You'll have to keep an eye on the clips (I have plenty of spares if you want some, since we replace the Spicer clips with full circle clips in our kits) until you upgrade or replace with fresh stock parts.

Let me know if you want some spare clips - got about a jillion.

Ron

 

Before going to Superiors and CTM's on my YJ, I tack welded the u-joint caps to the axle yoke, just enough bead to keep it in place, but easy enough to grind off when a change was required. Haven't done anything to the LJ yet. Alloy USA's and CTM's are in it's future.

I have several buddies that have also done this, we all wheel our junk hard, and this has proven to be a very cost effective solution.

 

[quote="David Lindsey":1035lnzf]What are the chances that my the ears on the yoke have spread?

I got lucky today. I took a peek when my wife got home today from running errands. I notice the clip was out about 60%. I tapped it back in, but have concerns about driving till I get this done.

Can I drive on this?

Unfortunately, it's likely they are stretched some. You'll have to keep an eye on the clips (I have plenty of spares if you want some, since we replace the Spicer clips with full circle clips in our kits) until you upgrade or replace with fresh stock parts.

Let me know if you want some spare clips - got about a jillion.

Ron[/quote:1035lnzf]

Ron, I am looking into having the stock shafts machined to accomodate full clips. Good Idea? If I had the money at the moment, you would have gotten a call before this happened. These are supposed to be my spares.

Thanks for the offer.

 

mines at the dealer now getting its third set of front axle shafts

 

Spinning caps are a good indication that the yokes are worn and failure is eminent. When installing a new u-joint, take note. If the cap slids in easily, the yoke is worn. A good yoke will be slightly under size and offer an interference fit (you will have to use a hammer to tap in it.) The reason the caps spinning is due to the fact the holes for the yoke is oval and this happens from stress or shock loading. For a emergency trail repair, welding isn't a bad idea but as a long term fix it's not a good idea because the heat from the welding will further weaken the area.

The correct fix would be to replace the axle shaft and the stub shaft. Generally for myself, if I have a failed stub shaft, I replace the inner shaft as a just in case factor this way I know both units are fresh.

When installing new u-joints I recommend installing them dry without grease and painting a witness line across the yoke and cap so you can easily spot a cap rotating. We have done the c-clip conversions in the past but I personally don't think the c-clip mod is any stronger then the stock set up. The CTM or OX u-jonts are much stronger but both makers do not recommend using them without a hub conversion. The CTM and OX u-joints and not designed for freeway use because they would wear faster due to the bushing for the caps rather the roller bearings. Also the CTM and OX u-joint in a stock axel shaft will require grinding as well so the shoulders will clear. I would recommend using the Spicer X series u-joints, they are stronger and came stock with the Rubicons. Also with the X series u-joints be sure to keep the same caps on the same legs you pulled off. One of the great things are the X seris u-joints is the grease is premeasured and it is exact. There is no reason for you to add grease and there is a triple seal that will keep out water and keep grease in.

My .02 cents on the axle shafts for the Rubicon is the stock shafts are on the delicate side. The stock 4:1 will pound them. If you are running trails that do not require the front locked, keep them unlocked, this will reduce the stress on the front axle and let them live a little longer. When fully locked on more technical trails, go easy on the skinny pedal and be smooth. Everything from the motor to the tires will love you more and live a lot longer. If you have to up-grade, go chromoly but only go stronger u-joints if you run a hub conversion.

 

We have done the c-clip conversions in the past but I personally don't think the c-clip mod is any stronger then the stock set up.

I don't think it will strengthen anything, but it certainly will lessen the chance of spitting a cap by a large margin.

Also with the X series u-joints be sure to keep the same caps on the same legs you pulled off.

Thanks for this advice. I did not know that.

I am going to have the warranty cover the spinners, then have the new shafts machined to accomodate the full clips. Eventually these will be trailspares.

 

Spinning caps are a good indication that the yokes are worn and failure is eminent. When installing a new u-joint, take note. If the cap slids in easily, the yoke is worn. A good yoke will be slightly under size and offer an interference fit (you will have to use a hammer to tap in it.) The reason the caps spinning is due to the fact the holes for the yoke is oval and this happens from stress or shock loading. For a emergency trail repair, welding isn't a bad idea but as a long term fix it's not a good idea because the heat from the welding will further weaken the area.

The correct fix would be to replace the axle shaft and the stub shaft. Generally for myself, if I have a failed stub shaft, I replace the inner shaft as a just in case factor this way I know both units are fresh.

When installing new u-joints I recommend installing them dry without grease and painting a witness line across the yoke and cap so you can easily spot a cap rotating. We have done the c-clip conversions in the past but I personally don't think the c-clip mod is any stronger then the stock set up. The CTM or OX u-jonts are much stronger but both makers do not recommend using them without a hub conversion. The CTM and OX u-joints and not designed for freeway use because they would wear faster due to the bushing for the caps rather the roller bearings. Also the CTM and OX u-joint in a stock axel shaft will require grinding as well so the shoulders will clear. I would recommend using the Spicer X series u-joints, they are stronger and came stock with the Rubicons. Also with the X series u-joints be sure to keep the same caps on the same legs you pulled off. One of the great things are the X seris u-joints is the grease is premeasured and it is exact. There is no reason for you to add grease and there is a triple seal that will keep out water and keep grease in.

My .02 cents on the axle shafts for the Rubicon is the stock shafts are on the delicate side. The stock 4:1 will pound them. If you are running trails that do not require the front locked, keep them unlocked, this will reduce the stress on the front axle and let them live a little longer. When fully locked on more technical trails, go easy on the skinny pedal and be smooth. Everything from the motor to the tires will love you more and live a lot longer. If you have to up-grade, go chromoly but only go stronger u-joints if you run a hub conversion.

I camped with Jack Graef of CTM racing at a CalROC's event a while back. While BS'ing around the campfire, I asked him if CTM U-joints would work in YJ/TJ applications that saw street use. He assured me that his joints were up to the task, only requiring their (CTM's) usual maintenance. Been running them on my YJ since, although it rarely sees strret use.

BTW, Jack is a stand up guy, and an awesome asset to the sport.

 

it's been said before, rather then machine them, just tack weld the caps on. I have gone through 7 fronts until I welded them, no problems now. Will it last forever-no- but it is working good so far.

 

I camped with Jack Graef of CTM racing at a CalROC's event a while back. While BS'ing around the campfire, I asked him if CTM U-joints would work in YJ/TJ applications that saw street use. He assured me that his joints were up to the task, only requiring their (CTM's) usual maintenance. Been running them on my YJ since, although it rarely sees strret use.

BTW, Jack is a stand up guy, and an awesome asset to the sport.

20,00 miles in the first year. I grease every 3,000. Think they will make it? I'd love to be able to do this, but I'd obviously want to talk with him to see what he says and maybe workout some kind of deal if they do fail.

 

I can understand wanting to hear it for yourself, as did I. I was originally told that CTM's would tolerate street duty in a non disconnect hub by a friend/Beta tester of the original CTM. I wanted to hear it myself or see it in writing.

As long as the end user understands that they are high maintenance parts (compared to a conventional joint) there should be no issue. Jack went in to technical detail that I won't even attempt to repeat, but in essence he said that the minimal loads on the front axle u-joints in 2wd operation were within the operating parameters of his product.

I can assure you that I do my best to not spread bad info on the internet. I'd also NEVER name drop, and risk tarnishing someone's rep (besides mine :lildevil: ) if what I was saying was not true. I had the pleasure of camping with Jack when he spotted for Seth Markowitz in the CalRoc's Cougar Buttes event a year ago.

He's spotting for Jody Everding in Pro Rocks now, for the Rawx Racing Team.(shameless plug, Jody is also a friend and talented driver)