IIRC, there is a dealer level reflash on this to loosen the code set criteria on the I/M readiness monitors.

It can stay that way forever, honestly. The problem is, with a glowing MIL, it can't tell you when something ELSE is also going on that may need more immediate attention.

Regarding MIL's (a.k.a "check engine lights") on all vehicles:

A glowing MIL with no driveability issues means it needs attention when it's convenient for you. If the light's on and it drives "different" then let those symptoms guide you. If the light's flashing, don't drive it more than the distance to the nearest repair facility.

HTH

 

Thanks a lot Doc. I was hoping to get some inputs at least from you on this.

I saw very few posts on this topic, and remember reading about the reflash in one of those. I'll give that a shot.

 

IIRC, there is a dealer level reflash on this to loosen the code set criteria on the I/M readiness monitors.

I haven't always had smooth situations with the dealer so I wanted some additional info on this before I approached them...
1. If the dealer argues that this could be the 02 sensors gone bad; is there a way I can know for sure it is bad? P2096 is the only code I am getting.
2. Is this reflash, something the dealer should oblige to do for free or is there a cost involved with it?

Thanks!

 

You shouldn't care if the 02's failed either, they're covered under the emissions warranty coverage.

 

Oh thats great! Thanks again Doc.

 

how long is the emissions warranty good for, cause i have Slow responses on bank 1 and 2 sensors 1

 

how long is the emissions warranty good for, cause i have Slow responses on bank 1 and 2 sensors 1

Check your owner's manual. It should be 8/80 for most folks reading this.

Understand that "bank 1 and 2 precat slow response" codes can be caused by things other than that which is covered under the emissions warranty provisions.

 

Doc, I just checked with the dealer (two places), and they say the 02 sensor warranty is only the standard 3/36. The 8/80 is only for the PCM and Cat!
Also, they say the that the flash (if they find is required) takes about 1-1.5 hrs, and they would charge for that!

 

Good Luck is all I can say. I've had the same damn thing for months now, as noted in this thread here:

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=59626

Been running with that stupid check engine light on for so long now I'm having to pretend it's supposed to be that way. Dealer isn't worth a crap at fixing it. Either the 2096 or the other 0133 or whatever it is. They've done that reflash thing-which lasted all of about 10 minutes after I left the dealer before the light came back on again. Messed with that vacuum line on the manifold numerous times and replaced fittings. I've replaced O2 sensors, nothing seems to fix it. Be nice if they'd get serious and really LOOK into the problem rather than just diagnose it as something simple and say there, see what that does. Getting awfully tired of screwing with this crap-want it fixed, and fixed right so I don't have to deal with it anymore. As far as I can tell, it hasn't hurt anything-yet, but who knows when/if it will in the long run.

If you get it fixed-let me know what it took. I think there are a few on the board with the same or similar issues that it may benefit.

Best of Luck,

Mike

 

I recently had two MILs pop up...

0153 - O2 Sensor Slow Response (Bank2, Sensor1)
2098 - Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System High Limit

I had the 0153 code cleared by partsource to see if it would come back... it didn't, but shortly afterwards I got a 2098 code.
I was in for service anyway and had it looked at... turns out my exhaust pipes where they connect to the manifold were loose. Tighten those up, clear the code... and I haven't had any problems yet (That was done on Friday, Sept 5th, 2008).

 

'05TJLWBRUBY: The service dept just called me and said they feel a reflash would fix it, and thats what they would do now. So I'm not sure if I'm entering the vicious cycle you are in :?

But I'll update this thread back on how it goes after a few days (or sooner if the MIL comes on before that)!

Thanks again to all for your inputs.

 

'05TJLWBRUBY: The service dept just called me and said they feel a reflash would fix it, and thats what they would do now. So I'm not sure if I'm entering the vicious cycle you are in :?

Again, Good Luck is all I can say. I was told the same thing at one point, took it in and sat there for a couple hours while they "flashed" it, or did whatever they did to the computer. Something about widening the trim levels or something-I forget now. After the reflash, they cleared the code-it lasted me all of about 10 minutes-just enough time to get off the lot and out into traffic to the point that I didn't want to mess with circling around and getting back to the dealer. Plus with the time involved, pretty much wasted the day. That's where I'm at now-each trip back, I have to plan on a day that can be wasted with nothing else going on-depending on how many other things I have going on at the time.

They found the vacuum line off on one trip in-I knew it was off as my defroster was stuck, just didn't think that would be a source of the problem, and I forgot to re-attach it before going in. They've stuck to that as the source the last several trips in, ended up replacing that connector as they felt the stock one wasn't "strong enough" to hold. Put a crappy aftermarket one on, that tore immediately so I had to zip-tie it in place on both ends to get it to hold till I could return. They decided a factory MOPAR brand connector was best, so they ordered one of those, heat shrunk it on, then zip tied it for good measure. That was the last trip in. Light was back on within 5 minutes that time and is still on. Haven't had time to get back in again.

DoctorD has posted in the thread I linked a few variables that could be the culprit. I've done what I could to eliminate as many as I can-by myself. I don't have any diagnostic tools, computers, or anything fancy like that-just a set of wrenchs that I make work for whatever I need to do. Tightened up all exhaust bolts, checked fuel rail, vacuum lines, etc. etc. I can't find anything that would fit into the scenario on my rig that I'm ABLE to check myself. I've even replaced O2 sensors with brand new factory MOPAR units and had the light come back. Funny thing is-my own fixes and battery disconnects have left the code cleared longer than the dealers. I did make it a couple weeks once on my own fix after replacing a sensor and resetting the light-every time I leave the dealer after their fix, it's usually 10 minutes at best before it's back on. I forget exactly what all I've gone through with it now, but I suspect either all the sensors need replaced, or the cat needs replaced. Trying to get them to actually LOOK at the rig rather than keep cutting my vacuum line shorter and blaming that is getting harder and harder to do. Last time they said they'd replace the entire vacuum harness as they've now cut it too short to reach if it happened again. Well-that was 5 minutes later, which was a few weeks ago. Might make it back in next week, but kinda doubt it-have a bunch of other projects that need done first. Can't find any real problems it's creating other than being a real annoyance that it's on, so I'm just dealing with it as time allows.

I seriously hope you have better luck with the reflash than I had and it cures your problem. It's been a real headache to say the least.

Best of Luck,

Mike

 

Thanks Mike. I am going to keep my hopes low now that I've heard your story! Also when I go to pick up the Jeep, I'll check with the tech on what his findings were that made him conclude the flash would fix it (just to see if they "actually" did any poking around?).

Ignoring that light is definitely something we could do, but I was wondering what would you do when your emissions are due? I am guessing the dealer would cut some slack out there for you since he knows that everything that they are aware seems to be running fine on your jeep?

 

I thought I'd just update that I've coverd about 200 miles after the PCM Flash by the dealer, and so far, the CEL has not come back yet.
One of my earlier symptoms were that my OBD II monitors (especially the heated oxygen sensor monitor) took a long time to complete. I'm hoping that this would fix that as well!

Thanks to all who gave their valuable inputs!

 

Close to 5 months after the PCM flash for P2096, I had the CEL finally come up today, and the code now reads P0133. Bummer
Just thought I'd update back about my bad luck! When I get time... i'll crawl underneath to check the condition of the 02 sensors!

 

I recently had two MILs pop up...

0153 - O2 Sensor Slow Response (Bank2, Sensor1)
2098 - Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System High Limit

I had the 0153 code cleared by partsource to see if it would come back... it didn't, but shortly afterwards I got a 2098 code.
I was in for service anyway and had it looked at... turns out my exhaust pipes where they connect to the manifold were loose. Tighten those up, clear the code... and I haven't had any problems yet (That was done on Friday, Sept 5th, 2008).

Just an update... my 2098 code came back shortly after (Sept 13th, 2008). I have been neglecting it until a couple of weeks ago (Jan 16, 2009) I replaced both downstream O2 sensors. Now my CEL has gone off and stayed off so far.

 

Close to 5 months after the PCM flash for P2096, I had the CEL finally come up today, and the code now reads P0133. Bummer
Just thought I'd update back about my bad luck! When I get time... i'll crawl underneath to check the condition of the 02 sensors!

Just returned from a pretty major surgery, sifting back through and found this thread again. I also have this code as well, along with the other. Let me know if you have any luck getting rid of it. I'm still fighting it!

Best of Luck,

Mike

 

[quote='05TJLWBRUBY]Just returned from a pretty major surgery[/quote]
Sorry to hear that... hope everything's good now.

[quote='05TJLWBRUBY]
Let me know if you have any luck getting rid of it. I'm still fighting it!
[/quote]
Its gone now... it stayed ON for a couple of days... and went away
Probably may have been something temporary. I am starting to think again that the re-flash did help? The dealer said (also DoctorD says above in this thread) re-flashing was supposed to "ease out" the criterions on the code.