[sierrabob]

Original poster here. Just saying there is hope. After my nightmare PCM problems and finally having the dealer find and replacing it, my Jeep has been running well and dependable. I actually sold it to my neighbor and can look across a couple acres and see it in the pole barn.

He is delighted to have an 05 Rubicon TJ and one built up like new.

Coming down a tricky fin in the trusty Rubi 2017, Moab UT

 

[sierrabob]

Cost was the argument when Morton-Thiokol designed and produced the Space Shuttle Solid Rocket Booster and we know how that faulty design turned out.

Research via Google, replacement 2005/2006 Jeep Wrangler PCM's, you will see that the 05/06 Jeep wrangler have the highest replacement cost because they are in short supply.

My 2005 replacement PSM and install was near $1800 and by the time the dealer was done I had $2200 charge.

Point is the Chrysler PCM design has many more failures than other vehicles. Chrysler, for what ever reason, accepted the design and build and potential failure rate as acceptable. Problem there is they passed on the cost and trouble to those who bought their Jeep while the stock holders gained profit. Thus it shows a low moral code of ethics.

 

[sierrabob]

I don't know how the pcm gets power for the heaters. Your TJ has ignition switched power and relay supplied power. The heaters themselves won't cause it not to run but a power supply problem would. Have a good look at your relays. For the price of them I would change them, or at least move them around. See if the problem changes?

I'm not sure if this is helpful but might produce some knowledge if there is an experienced person out there.

I was told that the TJ PCM (computer) had the power to the O2 heaters running through the PCM, the problem with that is that voltage could harm the PCM if there was a short within the black box. Supposedly a design flaw. I don't know if this is correct but I was informed of this by an experienced Chrysler mechanic. He thought that this was causing some of the PCM fails.

The computer design should have activate a relay outside the computer box to initiate the high voltage need to the O2 sensors.

 

[sierrabob]

Hate to revive this thread but I experienced the same thing just recently.

Was in Moab last week and Jeep started acting funny. My Jeep started throwing p0032, p0038, p0052, & p0058 codes and the Jeep would not restart. I could clear codes with OBDII Scanner Tool and Jeep would run for about 100 yards then die again.

Was able to get Jeep towed back to the trailhead and on my trailer. Once we brought Jeep back to the house and worked on it for a while, the Jeep ran fine. Grounds checked out fine, battery tested good, alt tested fine, all wires looked fine.

Is this a PCM issue? It's interment which leads me to believe it's not but I could be wrong.

TyLeRsLJ,
OP here. Good news is you may not have a PCM issue in IMHO.

My Jeep ran fine with the problem of all O2 sensors showing codes. My issue was the Jeep would not pass the smog test. I was forced to change out the PCM even though the Jeep ran fine. With your Jeep not running properly may indicate you have a real problem and not the PCM.

Hopefully you can get to an experienced mechanic that can hunt down your problem. Good luck and maybe it is as simple as some shorted wires.

 

[sierrabob]

My 06 rubicon lj shows a engine check light code Bank 1 Sensor 2 P0141 code any solutions to troubleshoot this problem

Welcome landmarktravel

Found this for ya https://www.yourmechanic.com/articl...rouble-code-o2-sensor-heater-circuit-malfunction-bank-1-sensor-2-by-jay-safford

I am no expert but my Rubicon with 120,000 miles will throw engine codes when I am on a long drive and have a long incline climb at highway speeds. I have been successful clearing the codes and they don't reappear until the next trip.

I have a replacement computer, new O2's, OPDA, plugs and wires and lots of engine analysis in the shop. My engine codes have not shown a real fault and I get different codes from engine to transfer case.

I have read that the 05/06 4.0 engine computer and associated sensors are just glitchy. Check engine lights may not be a real problem but It's just that the computer gets a reading outside its accepted parameters.

I really don't know if this is correct but I'm inclined to believe it. On my last expedition ride, all 3 TJ's along had engine codes showing up and a couple of JKU's as well.

Anyway, I would clear the codes with a code reader and if that doesn't work disconnect battery for a little while. If the O2 codes come back it may be time to replace all 4 O2 sensors.

 

[sierrabob]

You are right. Asked the mechanic and said the same, should always hook up with the engine off. Who knows maybe I killed my original PCM.

The mechanic said hooking it up with engine running shouldn't hurt but I will never do that again.

 

[sierrabob]

OP new information:

The Jeep passed the smog test. Now I can legally drive it

Also on the last drive the sticky throttle is gone except when I floor it, but braking makes it go back to normal much quicker and easier. The throttle is changing for the better, maybe the PCM is working on it?

Wow! $2800, many trips to the shop and five months of working on this gigantic series of Chrysler parts failures just may be over. But again it's a Chrysler product, better just be happy I'm back on the road.

I very much appreciate your advice and help. Having the Rubicon forum to share my problems and ask for help has tremendously help me beyond my ability to express. Thank You

My Chrysler dig... if by some chance a Chrysler executive reads this and just might want to improve their image, just maybe, may lead to Chrysler making better parts and supporting their customers better. I can try anyway.

 

[sierrabob]

Yes, plugged in the OBD2 while the engine was running.

Another note that this second replacement PCM from the Chrysler dealer threw codes, lost signal from transmission and dash gage cluster when I plugged in the OBD2.

Cleared these and ended up getting O2 sensor codes and back to the dealer to replace all O2 sensors to clear codes. And also replace OPDA.

I am using a different OBD2 tool now in fear the other one was defective.

Just test drove and some change in the sticky throttle, it's doing it less and idles normal.

Throttle still sticks when I floor the throttle and speed up fast and hold say 60 MPH. When I let off it still stays at that RPM and speed Go to neutral and RPM stays up high. In gear, slam on the brakes hard and RPM goes down to normal. Yesterday the RPM went down but stayed high around 1800 so improving today as it goes to normal idle

Under the hood all looks normal. One more thing...this started after the shift cable came off and I safety wired it back on. Could there be a reason that might cause this or is it a coincidence.

 

[sierrabob]

Sounds like IAC solenoid.
When was the last time the valve was cleaned? Throttle body cleaned?
PCM sets a reference for IAC at start. If the valve is stuck the reference will be off. I would start with the IAC and cleaning the throttle body before looking elsewhere.

Thanks SteveVB

Will test ride again and see if this weird problem continues today. If so will clean the IAC.

Found a Utube video on the procedure for a 1991, same for my 2005?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwO3k0Up_bw

Just a note, information on the net says that the PCM controls the IAC so the PCM is still not cleared and this is what this thread was started for.

And Importantly the idle was normal until I plugged in the OBD2 tool. Plus the problem is the throttle stays stuck at highway speeds and can be dropped down only by hitting the brakes hard. Seems something other than just a sticky IAC although this is a good starting point to track down the problem.

 

[sierrabob]

Lockers are ok described the problem in another thread.

But another new problem If you have been following and are getting tired of this just think of my suffering, man I just want to pass smog. Still the PCM is in question.

Present action, I'm driving my Rubicon on back roads to get some miles for the computer to gather data so I can pass smog. Today started the Jeep and plugged in the code checker. The RPM instantly shot up to 2800 and would not come down.

I turned the engine off, still high on start up, drove around my property at high RPM and still wouldn't settle down.

So out the back gate on dirt to a country road and off I go with the throttle going up and staying up. Would not try this in town! At 60 mph let off and the engine RPM kept the Jeep going at 60. Tried different speeds and throttle acted like it was set with the speed control. Played with the speed control and no change. Did this after start and stop for 10 miles or so.

Finally found that if I hit the brakes hard the RPM would drop down as if I was braking with speed control on. The idle would drop to 1200 or so but throttling up the RPM would not come down and stay at my max speed. So weird.

Now this is going on with or with out the OBD2 tool plugged in.

Anyone have any experience with the RPM's going up and out of control after plugging in an OBD2 diagnostic tool? BTW I use this tool on other vehicles with no problems so believe this is the Jeep not the tool.

 

[sierrabob]

thanks I'll be on it.

Is this replacement bushing of the auto trans that I need? I'd call and ask but they are closed now.
http://www.quadratec.com/products/12521_9002.htm

Oh, another fail I forgot to share! Drove the Rubicon off road and put on the lockers... But no locker light and don't think the lockers were engaged. Have not checked anything out yet because of so many other fails. What should I check first for no locker light?

Again this Jeep build design failure is getting to me

 

[sierrabob]

About the shift cable... Thanks Black Rubi, information I need will and be looking. What is ROF and IIRC? If anyone has a link let me know.

So far from other forums the fix is buy a new cable from the dealer since you can't buy the connector alone.

BTW from reading the connector is just junk plastic the deteriorates over time. What is Chrysler doing making a critical part out of cheap plastic that can fail. I have had the Jeep in steep mountain trails that if this happened then I would be screwed and endangered.

I'm really questioning Chrysler's design/build

 

[sierrabob]

Failed smog test two codes, OBD EVAP and OXY SNSR HEAT. Tech said to drive some more and come back, he thinks it will pass. Non the less I'm bummed as I have been trying to smog since Aug. 2015.

There is more BAD JEEP problems. I drove to the country Walmart and parked. Came out and the Jeep started but the auto shift lever flopped back and forth as if disconnected and would not go into gear.

Cell phone googled the problem and again found it is a common Jeep auto trans fail... cable connection from shifter to lever falls apart

Crawled under the Jeep in deep melting snow and saw the cable hanging and at the end a donut opening off the levers stud. No locking mechanism for the cable connection in sight. Safety wired the cable to the lever and got home. Loosing the love for the Jeep fellows!

Put on my code checker and no codes so maybe I should have driven just a few more miles before the smog test. Had about 120 miles which should have been enough. I'll try again in a couple days if the Jeep doesn't fall apart

At the risk of boring you guys to death I will continue this thread since it started because this Rubicon could not pass the smog test. On the way the Jeep has been failing parts and in all cases it is a known fail point on these Jeeps. My intent is still to provide useful information for other Jeep owners and hope that is what this is.

 

[sierrabob]

OP update: The frustration continues but may have the Jeep fixed. My good wife noticed a double rainbow rising over us as we drove out of the dealership and passionately says it is a symbol of good fortune. Then again she might be telling me she is tired of the Jeep thing!

Earlier today leaving Reno stopped by the DMV for a permit, again. The DMV Charged me quadruple for a day driving permit because their computer says I have used up the privilege and said with a smile.

Picked up the Jeep from the dealer and no codes even going up the steep hill out of Carson Valley Nevada. Add another $250.00 to the cost making the total around $2800.00 for this parts malfunction misadventure. Actually I expected to pay much more, looks like being a frequent customer has helped out. One for me

To their credit, Quadratec did sent a new OPDA next day delivery at no charge and free return mail for the bad OPDA. They were responsible sending me a defective Crown OPDA and costing me time, money, effort and frustration. I will send a letter and ask for some compensation. A test of good customer relations.

On the way home I stopped by the DMV again because I was told after spending $400.00 I would get a waiver for smog certificate for the year. I went to the station outside to get this done and was informed that I am a stupid person because the Carson dealer is not on their list of authorized shops. At least that was the tone. So no waiver for me

Didn't smog it yet because I didn't want to risk a fail for not having computer data, too be sure, need a few more miles. I'll go for a drive and smog tomorrow. I live out in the back country, high desert of Nevada, and hope I don't come into contact with a cop since I only have a one day permit and tomorrow I will be illegal. Probably a good bet I will be safe and then use a country garage for a smog test and keep out of the laws way. If I smog OK hope the DMV doesn't have some more tricks up their sleeve costing me more.

 

[sierrabob]

Got this off the internet so it's got to be gospel

The OPDA is the oil pump drive assembly, the component that houses the camshaft position sensor. The tone wheel is the part on the top end of the shaft that is driven by the gear on the camshaft, you'll notice it has notches along its edge that are picked up by the cam position sensor. The cam position sensor uses the notches to generate a signal to the ECM for camshaft and crankshaft synchronization so it can properly time the ignition and injectors.

If your tone wheel isn't positioned correctly, then your engine won't run. You do have some leeway to adjust it into tolerance by rotating the OPDA housing, but you may need to pull the OPDA and turn the slot a bit in the oil pump so you can rotate the tone wheel shaft a tooth or so and reinstall the OPDA.

 

[sierrabob]

OP:
At this point in this long Jeep story of failed parts I am like a boxer on the ropes trying to weather the blows. Although it is my wallet taking the hits. Hopefully the rope-a-dope will be over soon.

The dealers service man, Mike, told me that the Mechanic, Eric, traced down why the check engine light comes on and then causes the engine to run bad. He said he was able to duplicate the condition several times.

Specifically, at about 3000 RPM's the timing suddenly jumps up 50 degrees.

The mechanic believes that when the PCM receives that signal it rejects the high advance and check engine light comes on. Mechanically he found that the "tone wheel" has a clearance 10 thousants which he suggested was too loose. I am assuming the tone wheel is the metal part at the top of the OPDA that the sensor is reading.

I just have to hope this is it. The Jeep is running fine with the replacement OPDA. My next worry is the new Crown OPDA from Quadratic which is arriving tomorrow at the dealers. If this one is bad... Just don't want more of this failed design/build stuff.

 

[sierrabob]

OP update: Found the problem

Dealer service man called today and informed me the brand new Quadratec Crown OPDA is defective. Damn this is also going to cost me but I am relieved that the problem was found.

I was told the mechanic has spent at least 3 days on the Jeep. Hopefully this is not total time. The mechanic tested the OPDA and found that at 3000 rpms the signal fluctuated and cause the PCM to reject the signal thus throwing the check engine light and code. He changed out the OPDA with a used shop spare and rode tested it with out any codes.

I will call Quadratec and have a new OPDA sent out ASAP. I have no choice at this point but to have it sent to the dealer and have the mechanic install it. I'm guessing the bill will be many hundreds of dollars

 

[sierrabob]

Ok I'm trying to answer my own question but doing so to hear what you guys think since it looks like I've got a stumper.

Read at least two posts on other forums that you can move the OPDA around to make the engine happy and removes codes. So some are doing that. But no one is saying what is technically happening. Just do it I guess.

 

[sierrabob]

I'm usually a do it yourself but the problem occurred while at the dealers so it's there. I'm sure it will cost me several hundred Fixed or not.

If a fix is not found I will set the OPDA were the Jeep likes it and hope for the best.

I do like the idea of replacing the old OPDA but it was at the 12 degree mark at the beggining and by chance put the new OPDA there after codes and the Jeep ran OK with no codes. Guess it was at that setting all along.

If anyone has a knowledge of what is happening when the OPDA is off like this please let me know. I am assuming it is being read by the PCM to coordinate the fueling with the timing but I don't know.

 

[sierrabob]

I see you think the cats are bad. I will check that out. But the symptoms make me wonder if the cats are the problem. Here is why.

When the OPDA is set at 12 degrees off the Jeep does not have any power problems or codes even under load and engine runs normal.

If the cats were bad wouldn't the engine have the symptoms all the time?

My issue is when the OPDA is set to spec the problem occurs and that happens when the engine is under load!

Just why does the Jeep like 12 degrees off on the OPDA is the question.