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Discussion Starter #81
Your transmission on the floor? Did you figure out why you lost reverse? Gears/clutches or valve body?

The fluid is brown and stinks to high heaven, some of the sprags show a lot of heat, and the clutches show a lot of wear. I've been doing a ton of reading and it seems very common to lose reverse. One opinion is the reverse solenoid piston is too short not allowing enough pressure causing it to slip. Smoked clutches allowing them to weld themselves together is another.*

I also found one I'm leaning towards but can't prove because it's apart. The plug was pushed in enough it was leaking fluid. From what I'm reading if fluid gets in the plug (and it was) it will cause it to short out and default to only forward gears, even in neutral. From what I'm reading, I could have cleaned the plug and it might have fixed the reverse. Regardless with the smelly fluid, it definitely won't hurt to rebuild it. Or now that I know how easy they are to pull apart, I could swap tailshafts into another donor if this one has too much ruined.*

I'm trying to study all I can and learn how to work on them. Always been overwhelmed by it, just like doing gears. But once you grasp the basic concept of it, people say it's not that bad with the right tools. Just keep it clean and check your tolerances.
 

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The fluid is brown and stinks to high heaven, some of the sprags show a lot of heat, and the clutches show a lot of wear. I've been doing a ton of reading and it seems very common to lose reverse. One opinion is the reverse solenoid piston is too short not allowing enough pressure causing it to slip. Smoked clutches allowing them to weld themselves together is another.*

I also found one I'm leaning towards but can't prove because it's apart. The plug was pushed in enough it was leaking fluid. From what I'm reading if fluid gets in the plug (and it was) it will cause it to short out and default to only forward gears, even in neutral. From what I'm reading, I could have cleaned the plug and it might have fixed the reverse. Regardless with the smelly fluid, it definitely won't hurt to rebuild it. Or now that I know how easy they are to pull apart, I could swap tailshafts into another donor if this one has too much ruined.*

I'm trying to study all I can and learn how to work on them. Always been overwhelmed by it, just like doing gears. But once you grasp the basic concept of it, people say it's not that bad with the right tools. Just keep it clean and check your tolerances.

Until you do something once task can always seem overwhelming. I'd do exactly what you have done, "read". See if they have a HD kit for it, replace any springs with heavier ones ( if it uses them ). I had a ford tranny that used these springs on a plate about 6-8 of them. I was told by a tranny guy they did not need replacing, a few months later it was fried again, heavier springs went back, the old stock ones weren't putting enough pressure on the clutches and they slipped and burnt.
Just get bullet proof parts and go for it! Are you running an external filter on the tranny along with the pan filter and cooler?

One thing I would suggest is if you decide to DIY a rebuild find you a clean area for the operating room.

I'm sure you have the necessary skills to wrench on it!
 

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99 LS1 from a Corvette

You're welcome to come over whenever, but it's in peices for now. Lol
I've enjoyed following this build and will take you up on that offer to come see it. Perhaps it'd get me to go out and wheel "local" trails too. Maybe you know, I thought I read somewhere that for emission standards a donor motor has to be of the same year or newer to be legal. Do you know if this is true? I am interested in installing a LS motor in my TJ which is a 2004.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
You need a dump truck tranny. LOL
Got it put back together but due to a newb mistake I put the pump gears in backwards and smoked the pump. I grabbed a new pump and got everything back together and cut the engine harness in half trimming a panel. So now I'm on LT1swap looking at schematics to fix it. Hopefully it's "done" soon and I can enjoy it.
 

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Got it put back together but due to a newb mistake I put the pump gears in backwards and smoked the pump. I grabbed a new pump and got everything back together and cut the engine harness in half trimming a panel. So now I'm on LT1swap looking at schematics to fix it. Hopefully it's "done" soon and I can enjoy it.



If you don't already know;make sure you use the heat shrinkable splices with the sealant so water or other muck does not get in and corrode everything. They also have them for coaxial type cable if there are any of those type of wires in the harness. They also sell the mesh fire retardant sleeve that's made for harnesses.
 

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For electrical connections which I absolutely want to make sure are weather proof I coat the wires on liquid electrical tape before the shrink wrap, as a bonus the liquid tape absorbs vibration which could break the solder bond over time, pic for reference.
 

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Just a year or two ago I became aware of heat shrink tubing with adhesive - sometimes referred to as "marine" heat shrink tubing. Good advice from Mark. I haven't used the liquid tape products so I'm not sure how robust that would be in the long run.
 

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Just a year or two ago I became aware of heat shrink tubing with adhesive - sometimes referred to as "marine" heat shrink tubing. Good advice from Mark. I haven't used the liquid tape products so I'm not sure how robust that would be in the long run.

Yes, I like the marine heat shrink it's also thicker walled.
Don't forget about the heat shrinkable splices with adhesive. We used them on aircraft. Of course you may be be better off soldering the connections and using the marine heat shrink so you don't have a bigger lump in the harness than necessary.

i know a lot of people like using flame on shrink don't do this, just buy a cheap heat gun from HF.
 

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Link where I get the marine grade stuff: They have the shrink with adhesive and the sleeving I was on about. I think you will like the sleeving it makes very nice harnesses. Put shrink on either end and you have a very nice harness, not quite like an airplane but close enough. It gives the harness an abrasive resistant shield. Some has a high heat resistance also depending on the area you use it.

http://www.genuinedealz.com/
Amazon also has the sleeving.
this is a guitar cable I built using the sleeving. This sleeving came from Amazon. I've built all kinds of harnesses with this sleeving. Alarm system harnesses, audio, radio, etc. It just makes for a professional looking job.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
I thought everyone already knew, and forgot to update this. I sold it locally back in April to Shawn Inman. He got it tuned, cut the back off and set it on 42s.



I then picked up the second Low Budget Pimpin chassis built and had to redo basically everything. Pic of Debra after her first waterfall.

 

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Discussion Starter #94
So what is next?
I was actually going to get out for a while and snag the foxbody I've always wanted. I just couldn't find anything clean that wasn't overpriced. Debra said she's always wanted a Jeep, so I snagged her a little yellow 2000 TJ with an auto. Plan to fix it up enough to wheel the park roads as she just wants to take her dog to the beach mostly. So far just a 1.25 body lift/motor mount lift and a Motobilt bumper. Plan to find something better than a 35 for the rear, but I can build a Fab9 for less than most jeep people seem to think a stock 44 is worth. Been researching the 8.8, just don't want to spend a fortune for a dog park Jeep. She likes the single seat, so I may just keep teaching her and spot her at the local werock comp for fun.
 
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