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Discussion Starter #1
the passenger side axle seal is leaking on my jeep. technically its covered under the 7/70 warranty but I thin I could get away with doing it myself for far less than the $100 deductible. plus I need to do axle drain and refills on both axles anyway.
the only axles I have ever worked on though are c-clip axles and the way I understand it, the rubi 44's are not c-clip axles. so what holds the axle in? how do I go about pulling the shaft to get at the seal? once the shaft is out of the way its just a normal axle seal that is pressed into the end of the shaft, right?
how bad is it if I dont get this repaired immediately? it will probably be about 2 weeks before I can get to it

I think while I am in there I am going to do rear brakes and parking brake shoes since I will already have it torn apart. any tips for this as well? or is it pretty straight forward?

another? the rear brake calipers, when you compress the piston can you do it with a c-clamp and it presses straight in, or is it a "twist in" style caliper where you ahve to turn the piston as you compress it?

thanks in advance.
 

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Seal is on the axle like nuke said and the bearing has to be pressed off and on. The disk pads can be pushed with a C-clamp no problem just make sure that if you blow fluid out of the master cylinder to hose it off immediately. It will remove any paint it hits in short order. Same with the parking brake. I just replaced mine when I changed ring and pinion. The 4 nuts holding the axle in place are a one-time-use. So plan on getting 8 new ones. They are expensive through the dealer. I will try Six States next time.
 

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i had mine go out 3 days after i bought it from the previous owner...cost me $35 to fix...including a new bearing with the new seal....i like know a couple machine shops by name around here.


I think the benefit of doing it yourself is worth, it compared to the deductible.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
yea but the whole thing about pressing the bearing off the axle is what poses a problem.
I live in an apartment and I am technically not supposed to work on my vehicle AT ALL but if it was something I could do in an hour or so and be done, no one will really say anything, but leaving it jacked up in the parking lot with the tire off and no axle shaft in it is a serious state of disassembly is a big NO NO.

unfortunately I think this may end up being a warranty repair after all. I didnt realize the seal was on the axle and not in the end of the tube
THAT SUCKS
 

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some shops will press it on and off for you right then as long as they aren't busy...i called around before talkin to a friend of mine and most said it would be like 20-30mins
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am going to see what I can doo here soon. the "hiding" it will probably be how I go about this cuz I just dont have the 100 bux for the deductible plus I know how dealers do things and considering you dont have to pull the diff cover to do this, I highly doubt the tech would take the time to do so and change the fluid. all he is gonna do is pull the shaft and top off the fluid when he is done.
 

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I have been through this whole axle seal business once too often … Trust me, spend the $200 bucks and get yourself a 20 ton press from Ho-chi-min tools. This tool is awesome for working control arm bushing, u-joints. axle bearings and smashing beer cans into nothing.
I paid some clowns at a so called reputable Jeep shop to replace a seal…A$$ wipes totally screwed up the axle and six months later it starts leaking again. :lildevil:
 

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billdacat said:
"Ho-chi-min tools...
We bombed the crap out of that trail, and they're
still moving their junk on it, to this day... and now selling it to us!
:laugh: :rotflmao: :laugh:
 

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Jeepless in PA
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BTT!




My passenger side rear is leaking and are these the correct part numbers? I would only need the ring, seal and bearing correct?

Thanks

retaining rings- Part #83503077
axle seals- part #83503063
retaining plates- part#5083676AA
axle bearings- part#83503064
 

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stuff a rag in there as well when you take out the shaft, there will be some fluid in the axel that may drip out.

before you talk to a auto repair shop that will charge you prolly an hours labor 60-65 bucks. get in touch with a local hydraulic shop. stuff like that that walks through my door i usualy do for 20 bucks to pay for our lunch for the day.
 

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Most auto parts stores can get you a Timken bearing, Part Number is SET10.
Beware of Timken seal 9912-S It sucks...
A better seal is the SKF 18731 (Pep boys)

Your looking at about $40 bucks in parts...IMHO....Let the dealer do this one job. The price spread isn't great enough to warrant the headache....
 
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