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Discussion Starter #1
My plans are to just put a set of 3" Teraflex springs on, extend my bumpstops and keep the factory control arms.

The dealer where I bought my Rubi has sold a lot of "Sport" models with a Skyjacker lift (bottom of the line kit).

Just curious, I know a lot of guys swear by RE and Tera. I don't really like the poly bushings and heay duty control arms because they are very stiff and don't flex like the factory arms and rubber bushings.

So anyways, let me know what you have and what you like or dislike about it.
 
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You don't think an RE Superflex control arm flex's as well as the factory control arms???

My RE arms ride really well, it was a tad on the stiff side til I got them off road and flex'd em real good, but now the ride is better than stock, I would say.

John S.
 
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I also have the RE supreflex arms. The flex is awesome, but the stock arms do a great job also. I've run both the OME and RE kits now. I don't ramp a whole lot more with the RE kit than the OME kit (about 100 points), but this is only on the Ramp. I noticed the difference off road with the flex. I would have kept the factory arms, but at full droop the arms were impacting the brackets stopping flex. My concern wasn't limiting flex so much as damaging the arm at the pressure point. IMHO the factory arms are great up to the point that they are in contact with other frame or axle parts.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #4
WrathOfRubicon said:
You don't think an RE Superflex control arm flex's as well as the factory control arms???....

John S.
Not exactly what I meant. I don't like the bottom of the line arms you get in the inexpensive lifts, the ones with poly bushings on both ends. They don't flex well.
 
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I like my ride better with my RE CA's and OME shocks, than stock.

Bottom of the line anything is not good, that is for dang sure.

I have been in some bone jar'n jeeps as of late, so I kind of get where your comming from for sure.

Live in the Denver area? You are welcome to check out my ride, so you can get a better feel for it if ya like.
 

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Hey Griz:

Consider the JKS adjustable control arms. They're built like brick sh*thouses and they use stock bushings. They flex like crazy. If you get a pair of front LCAs you'll be able to adjust your caster, and with a pair of rear UCAs you'll be able to set your pinion angle if you need to. Replace 'em all and you can keep your wheelbase.

Jerry
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I will build my own control arms, when the time comes. I do like the JKS and the rubber bushings.

Poly is very stiff, and the ones I've seen and had experience with, only last a year or two, when you flex them a lot. IMO they are fine for street use.

Some Day I want to have an Air-Rubi.
 

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Griz, I have been running a Tera S3T system on my Rubi since Moab EJS. It uses the springs you have mentioned in your post. I am satisfied with the all around performance of the system. It offers a good balance of great off road performance without destroying the highway manners. The springs did not settle any measurable amount as of yet. I like the Tera arms as they provide unrestricted flex and are adjustable length. The down side of Tera arms is they are grease hogs. If you don't mind the maintenance they are a good control arm. I think you will have to go with longer shocks. The stock shocks will be at max travel at ride hieght :with 3" of lift. I purchased the Tera 34TF & 34TR shocks. The shocks are outstanding. They did more to improve the ride quality than any other component. Ride quality is better than stock even running the lift with the stock MTR'S. :D
 

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Griz, I have the JKS Upper and Lower CA's and they perfrom as good or better than the stock arms on road, and off-road they allow great articulation.

I also have the Rancho RS9000X shocks used in their Rock Crawler suspension and these shocks are awsome for a 3" lift. Adjust them for a 2-3 for the bumpy North East Highways, 3-5 for around town pot-holes, and 5-9 for off-road. It really makes a difference.

I use the BDS coils because they come with a great warranty, which I haven't had to use yet, and because both sets, front and rear, only cost me $180 from Windrock Offroad. These ride nice and flex well.

Good luck building your system, and you should also check out Track Bars if you are going that high - ORGS, Currie, JKS....

Ken
 

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i have the 4.5" RE short arm kit (which has rubber bushings btw). it rides like a covered wagon. the control arms have too steep of any angle to ride nice.

i also did some flex testing the other day on a cement ledge. i am definately satisfied with the flex the lift provides. the limiting factors were the sway bars, not the arms or springs. a little bit of rear steer though. not much you can do about that with a bolt-on kit.

griz, you gonna be at the M&G on belleview & santa fe friday?
 
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A Meet and Greet this Friday?
I would like to come by myself I suppose...

I love to get to look at everybodies different setups at those things.

Is this being sponsored by anybody in particular?


Thanks in advance,
John S.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Mike Holmes said:
i have the 4.5" RE short arm kit (which has rubber bushings btw). it rides like a covered wagon. the control arms have too steep of any angle to ride nice....

griz, you gonna be at the M&G on belleview & santa fe friday?
That's what I was thinking, anything more than 4" would be better with Long Arms.

Don't think I can make the M&G this Friday, have dinner plans already, but if they change I'll be there.

EDIT: Since the M&G starts at 6:30 pm, I may be there after 7-ish. We have early dinner plans.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
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Yeah, I went to Colorado4x4.org's site...
I dunno how I missed it until now, but I did.


Thanks.....
 

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RE 5.5 LA
It rides great on the road and is just SICK offroad.
The RE springs are very stiff when you first get them. They are one of the few springs that almost require offroad use to break them in. Once you do break them in, they ride very nicely. I am going on 6 months with mine now and have no complaints on the suspension.
 

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Ken White said:
I also have the Rancho RS9000X shocks used in their Rock Crawler suspension and these shocks are awsome for a 3" lift. Adjust them for a 2-3 for the bumpy North East Highways, 3-5 for around town pot-holes, and 5-9 for off-road. It really makes a difference.
Ken- each to their own I suppose, but this is completely backwards from how they should be run. You want more control as your speed increases, not less. I used to run adjustables as you suggest, but learned after a couple years this is all bas-ackwards.

I now run at setting 1 on the trail (except when driving down long steep trails with large dropoffs- I set the front to 5 to arrest extreme dive on severe ledge drops), setting of 2-3 around town, and 4-6 on the highway depending on how I'm loaded.
 

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I bottom out my shocks, hit my bump stops, if I run at a 2-3 around town and hit a pot-hole or cross any railroad tracks at any speed. That is why I crank them up a little.

On the highway, there really aren't any pot-holes, just some annoying concrete expansion joints, so I crank them down so the damping isn't so severe and I won't feel the thump, thump, thump... as much.

Off-Road, I personally like max damping to keep the springs from bouncing all over - I think it adds a little stability and control.

As you stated, to each their own.

Have a great day

Ken
 
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