Way to confirm full locker engagement?
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Norm - will do what I can!
Interesting ideas - Thanks!
I did resistance test the diff switches and everything worked correctly. I read resistance to ground at the diff connector and it was zero (good). I also read the voltage at the the diff, and when locked, it went to zero (confirming no resistance to ground - also good). Finally, the light does not stop blinking until the diffs physically unlock. The PCM (sorry Norm!) / dash cluster (depending on which document you are looking at) is reacting to the diff switches at least in some ways. I think that is saying the diff switches and the wiring to them is probably OK.
The key switch/lock is an interesting idea that I have not looked at yet. This Jeep did have the mechanical part fail once already. Am assuming this is the part that connects to the rod that goes up the column from the switch block below? In general, the key does not seem to be loose, and I fired up the lockers, hand rotated wheels to be sure there was physical lock and wiggled the key - lights kept blinking.
I do not get a door chime when the door is open, and the key is in. It does not chime until the ignition is switched on with the door open. Should I? That may be a clue...
I will go through the schematics again and see if I can identify the wire you are talking about and jump it out to test the theory. Anything else you know of this signal used for? Everything seems to work that I know of but if there is something else, it might help put the finger on it...
This started as wanting to be sure the lockers were fully engaging, now I am obsessed about the lights. Thanks for keeping the ideas coming!
Interesting ideas - Thanks!
I did resistance test the diff switches and everything worked correctly. I read resistance to ground at the diff connector and it was zero (good). I also read the voltage at the the diff, and when locked, it went to zero (confirming no resistance to ground - also good). Finally, the light does not stop blinking until the diffs physically unlock. The PCM (sorry Norm!) / dash cluster (depending on which document you are looking at) is reacting to the diff switches at least in some ways. I think that is saying the diff switches and the wiring to them is probably OK.
The key switch/lock is an interesting idea that I have not looked at yet. This Jeep did have the mechanical part fail once already. Am assuming this is the part that connects to the rod that goes up the column from the switch block below? In general, the key does not seem to be loose, and I fired up the lockers, hand rotated wheels to be sure there was physical lock and wiggled the key - lights kept blinking.
I do not get a door chime when the door is open, and the key is in. It does not chime until the ignition is switched on with the door open. Should I? That may be a clue...
I will go through the schematics again and see if I can identify the wire you are talking about and jump it out to test the theory. Anything else you know of this signal used for? Everything seems to work that I know of but if there is something else, it might help put the finger on it...
This started as wanting to be sure the lockers were fully engaging, now I am obsessed about the lights. Thanks for keeping the ideas coming!
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Have confirmed that chime should sound if the key is just in the slot, and found the color code for the wire. Being on my back / upside down underdashboards is one of my least favorite things, so if you don't hear from me, I am probably stuck and hopefully my wife will come looking for me if I don't appear for dinner...
² Key-In-Ignition Warning - The instrument
cluster chime tone generator will generate repetitive
chimes at a slow rate to announce that the hard
wired inputs from the driver door ajar switch, the
ignition switch, and the key-in ignition circuitry of
the ignition switch indicate that the key is in the
ignition lock cylinder with the driver door opened
and the ignition switch in the Off position. The
chimes will continue to sound until the key is
removed from the ignition lock cylinder, the driver
door is closed, or the ignition switch is turned to the
On position, whichever occurs first.
More after I try to find a connector to tap into...
² Key-In-Ignition Warning - The instrument
cluster chime tone generator will generate repetitive
chimes at a slow rate to announce that the hard
wired inputs from the driver door ajar switch, the
ignition switch, and the key-in ignition circuitry of
the ignition switch indicate that the key is in the
ignition lock cylinder with the driver door opened
and the ignition switch in the Off position. The
chimes will continue to sound until the key is
removed from the ignition lock cylinder, the driver
door is closed, or the ignition switch is turned to the
On position, whichever occurs first.
More after I try to find a connector to tap into...
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14 Posts
We have a winner!
The issue was the Key in Ignition Signal, first suggested by Red Lion.
The root cause is unclear - either the switch mounting or the incredibly frail pin that actuates it. The switch is large, and is held on the inner column - by one screw - and the attachment is one of the contact strips, not the body/shell of the switch so it can move around.
I ultimately fixed it by both tweaking the terminals inside the switch to require less throw, and using a wire tie to support the switch housing. If you did not know, wire ties delt bailing wire it's fatal blow after balers started using twine...
Thanks to everyone for the ideas along the way - any one could have been it.
The issue was the Key in Ignition Signal, first suggested by Red Lion.
The root cause is unclear - either the switch mounting or the incredibly frail pin that actuates it. The switch is large, and is held on the inner column - by one screw - and the attachment is one of the contact strips, not the body/shell of the switch so it can move around.
I ultimately fixed it by both tweaking the terminals inside the switch to require less throw, and using a wire tie to support the switch housing. If you did not know, wire ties delt bailing wire it's fatal blow after balers started using twine...
Thanks to everyone for the ideas along the way - any one could have been it.
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Oh - The dash lights now work as they should. Flashing until physical engagement, then the lights go solid as they should...
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1,785 Posts
Nice! Now for the future, while your here, if anything ever goes PCM your year 06 has a source in WranglerFix. Put them in your memory.
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Interesting - I will look them up now. The transmission and CPS issues are in remission, but am guessing they will return eventually. I tweaked the gap on the CPS and now it does not give a fault at least when it is cold, but who knows about the tranny. Everything I have read just says replace the PCM. I bought a disconnect switch for the battery to install the next time it happened to make it easier to reset the TCM portion, and it has not messed up since. Fingers crossed...
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1,785 Posts
The owner is very personable on the phone.
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406 Posts
The root cause is the pin not going in far enough. It's been a few years since I modified mine. I remember cutting a small piece similar to the pin, and adding to where the pin goes in. Sometimes when on a rough trail the indicators will flash. Just pushing the key in will correct it.
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406 Posts
The root cause is the pin not going in far enough. It's been a few years since I modified mine. I remember cutting a small piece similar to the pin, and adding to where the pin goes in. Sometimes when on a rough trail the indicators will flash. Just pushing the key in will correct it.
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On the PCU - sounds good. I have an email into them now about what to expect from replacing it. It seems that is should prevent the late/hard shift issue, but curious if it will affect the CPS related CEL/Limp mode problem...
I tried pushing the key in, but that did not do it, so took the column cover off to reach the harness with the intent of probing/jumping out the circuit to see what happened. When playing with the switch block connector (key in) I heard the chime briefly. I then started poking / playing with stuff to see how it worked. After seeing the possibilities, I tweaked the switch contacts, used the wire tie to keep the switch block in place. It has worked reliably since. I do wonder if it may be the key - it is not one of the originals, and perhaps it is not as long as the originals. Will check next time I get the chance.
I tried pushing the key in, but that did not do it, so took the column cover off to reach the harness with the intent of probing/jumping out the circuit to see what happened. When playing with the switch block connector (key in) I heard the chime briefly. I then started poking / playing with stuff to see how it worked. After seeing the possibilities, I tweaked the switch contacts, used the wire tie to keep the switch block in place. It has worked reliably since. I do wonder if it may be the key - it is not one of the originals, and perhaps it is not as long as the originals. Will check next time I get the chance.
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1,785 Posts
You’re relentless.
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Just saw this - my email was hung up for some reason and did not know there was a reply...
Yep... Been an engineer and trouble shooter all my life - persistence is key. We all have our grooves
Yep... Been an engineer and trouble shooter all my life - persistence is key. We all have our grooves
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