I have posted the design criteria for good rails that are intended to be used many times over the years. In fact, it was the posting about it and the subsequent ******** by many saying theirs held up just fine and they were "hardcore" users that was the impetus for me to design the ones I did for Savvy.Well that would have been good information to know a week ago. ?
I have been concerned about the aspects you have mentioned, though it seems it's common across nearly all the brands (except ww to ww).
We'll get out more when Kat gets better. Helping folks solve problems provides a level of enjoyment that can be considered fun. Not as much fun as driving the trails, but it will do until we can do something different.Great stuff, Blaine. You should write a book, but it sounds like you are too busy to get out and have some fun as it is.
We really appreciate the knowledge you share.
It is like most things John, the clues about the strength of things are already present in the tub, you just have to listen to the story they want to tell. Anyone who has ever removed a set of factory flares that was damaged by a tree or a rock has seen the outward dimples of the holes and nutserts that are under the flares and used to attach them to the body. The metric machine screws with the large washers are 5mm. That is a tiny fastener and yet it has the strength to dimple the body outward when the flare is subjected to high loads.Great analysis Blaine, I never really understood the structural aspect of the rail until now. My Rokmen sliders have a nice long interior backing plate, now I understand how important that is - I ordered it because it sounded like a good idea at the time :smile2:.
I had to go outside and look at my sliders - everything looks great, straight and normal and I've beat the crap out of them.