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I recently read an article (JP Magazine, July '03) that showed a way that you can rig the lockers so that they can be used in 4hi and 2wd. Has anybody ever tried this, or heard of it for that matter, and if so, does it actually work reliably?
 

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That article was written by Griz, one of our moderators. Yes, it works.

Jerry
 
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Thanks for the reply, I think I'll have to try it.
 

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One thing I haven't heard much about is re-wiring to allow the front locker to be operated on it's own. I'm much more interested in this than I am in using high range locked. Has anyone done a front locker only bypass? That would be slick.
 

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I was wondering the same thing. Seeing as there are 2 compressors I wonder if a second switch could be set up so that you can make seperate selections....Let the research begin..
 

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Ok, i have to ask why you would want to lock the front without locking the rear ( as I assume this is the desired end result). I realise there are situations where you would want to disconnect the rear driveshaft altogether, but I don't see what you're gaining by not locking the rear. Especially since unlocked the rear is a limited slip anyway. Please, edjumacate me :lol:
 

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Lothos said:
Ok, i have to ask why you would want to lock the front without locking the rear ( as I assume this is the desired end result). I realise there are situations where you would want to disconnect the rear driveshaft altogether, but I don't see what you're gaining by not locking the rear. Especially since unlocked the rear is a limited slip anyway. Please, edjumacate me :lol:
It is better to pull than to push sometimes. I would like it for when I am on the slippery incline and I just need a little help in the front and don't want that sliding effect that is just one example of what I would like. Also I would to see seperate controls just because.. :D
 

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Yes

Fully selectable lockers is what is needed, why? why not? One more switch and ????????????? Let's research this alternative, JP's are about having options so this is an option some would like.
 

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Sorry, I still don't see the advantage for a stock Rubi to have seperate locker controls. I could maybe understand if you handle a dual stick Tcase or perhaps even an open diff rear when unlocked. I so rarely lock the front as it is right now I get so much traction and ability from just having the rear locked.
 

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That's the point

Whatever works for you is good, for others something else works. Why assume a stock Rubi? Many of us have heavely modified them and this is one more option I too would like. After market lockers allow this so why not the DC installed ones? Let's do it.
 

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Here is how you do it:

Buy 2 SPST switches and some 20 guage wire (one for the front and one for the rear) and connect a ground to the same side on each switch (this ground can be daisy chained if desired). You can get the ground from Pin-1, the Black wire from the Axle Lock Switch.

For the front locker control, connect a wire to the other side of one of the switches and splice this wire into the Pin-7 wire, Violet/Dark Blue. This ground will enable the front locker independently of the other.

For the rear locker control, connect a wire to the other side of the other switch and splice this wire into the Pin-6 wire, Violet/Light Green. This ground will enable the rear locker independently of the other.

This is basically the same set-up as the original write-up with an independent locker control option by not going through the OEM locker switch.

I have been using it for a while and it works well - I put both switches side-by-side in the vacant Airbag Switch spot.

You must remember though, that there are NO transfer case or speed control limits anymore when using these switches and you must be careful. You can still use the original switch with no issues other than these new switches will override the OEM switch.

FSM: 8W-80-5 Axle Lock Switch pin-outs, 8W-31-12,13, and 14 for the locker control schematic.

Have a great day!

Ken
 

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Thanks Ken

You're the best!
 

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Sweeeeeet, You are the officially the man! :bowing:
 

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Rewiring Lockers

Kenn,
I printed out the article detailing the wiring diagram, when you speak of tapping into the existing wire and running it to the new switch do you actually cut the existing wire into and then splice the new wire into the three ends?
 

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PJ, I wasn't questioning why someone would want this done. I wanted to learn why the desire was there and possibly for what specific applications. My Rubi aint stock either and I already have the 4hi/2hi bypass put on.
 

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Ken...Don't suppose you could throw some pix in with that write up and post it in the write up section...Thanks for the info.. :D
 

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whatroc? - if you are considering the mod, and dont want to cut, splice, or
otherwise disturb your stock setup (might come in handy if you ever bring
the JP into the dealership with an air locker problem some day, as you
can quickly undo your work by pulling just 2 wires), then the best
reference i can give you is Ron's (PBR Stitch) Web site. Here is the link:

http://members.cox.net/rubicon03/Buildu ... Defeat.htm
 

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The front locker only function would greatly help when tight trails require you to squeeze through 2 obsticles. With the front locked and the rear unlocked you can pivot on the rear a bit and swing the front around - especially on loose terrian.
 

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There are a couple of ways to connect to the wires. One way is to buy some electrical taps from an auto parts store, or Radio Shack, and pick a point midway in the wiring harness to splice in.

The other way is to use a jewelers screwdriver to release the connector pin, then to gently pull the pin out of the connector, and solder a single strand wire on to the connector. Be sure to use the solder sparingly or you will not be able to put the pins back into the connector.

I ordered a digital camera last week and as soon as it arrives, I can take some pictures if everyone wants.

Ron, if you do the mod and want to post some pictures here, it would be great!

The one thing I want to stress about this mod is that the lockers will lock at greater than 10 mph and will not unlock at over 45 mph. They will also lock in any transfer case position at any time. Current is always flowing through the locker relay when the switch is on, so it is very important to turn the lockers off when the vehicle is turned off.

Good luck and have fun and just like the original article, I assume no responsibility if it voids a portion or your warranty or if you break your axles using it foolishly. :D

Have a great day!

Ken
 

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Front locked only

Lothos, I understand your question about why wanting only the front locked. Besides another choice on your jeep, imagine a situation where you want to be pulling forward and not pushing forward. Steep icy driveway w/front locked definitely helps. I, like you, thought full traction to all 4 tires would be best, but the rears pushing would make the Jeep feel like it would swap ends. W/just front locked, the jeep was able to idle right up the driveway w/minimal tire slippage. Go figure, but it works.
 
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