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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
What do you guys think about the front track bar brackets that mount to the frame? The ones that provide a support on both sides of the joint and rotates the joint 90 degrees. I see that they do change the shearing of thebolt possibility but are they necessary? Also seems like a better anglefor a heim or Johnny joint to pivot.


Any input would be appreciated as I'm gettingclose to purchasing parts for my winter lift.


Thanks,


cb
 

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Discussion Starter #2
After a day of talking to many about the track bar, I'm leaning towards keeping the stock bracket and going with a Currie or JKS bar. A 5/8" grade 8 bolt is pretty strong!


Craig
 

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I have the Currie HD trackbar - it's a brute (and can be straightened if necessary.) Blaine (mrblaine Black Magic Brakes, etc.) told me he's seen a few trackbar frame brackets crack. It's a tad difficult to clearly see all around the bracket but I inspected mine as best I could and it looks okay. I managed to shear the bolt on the axle end of trackbar bracket but I don't remember if it was grade 8 or grade 5. We were running a forest service road in Colorado in drizzle and then sleet when it broke - there I was laying on the ground trying to fit the trackbar back in the bracket. Ugh.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Take a look at Ruffstuff's new TJ trackbar that has a 1ton tapered drag link end. I already fitted mine with a double shear bracket and WJ trackbar.

Your bar looks very close to the diff cover in that pic. Have you had any problems rubbing the cover?
What kind of a bracket is that and is it welded on?


cb
 

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That bracket has about 1/4" of clearance, when on the bump stop cans. The bracket is a modified Nth Degree Mobility. It was never intended to fit with 2" of bump stop, but I like how it's a cross member that connects to the opposite side of the frame. For those that wish to question if it works?.. it worked fine in the previous Rubicon it was in for about 150K miles. This Jeep is less than 3"lift, the previous was a 6" long arm.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That bracket has about 1/4" of clearance, when on the bump stop cans. The bracket is a modified Nth Degree Mobility. It was never intended to fit with 2" of bump stop, but I like how it's a cross member that connects to the opposite side of the frame. For those that wish to question if it works?.. it worked fine in the previous Rubicon it was in for about 150K miles. This Jeep is less than 3"lift, the previous was a 6" long arm.


thanks for the info.


cb
 

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I know this is old.
I used the MetalCloak track bar but switched the frame side to a double shear affair. Home made bracket with a cross over strut to the passenger side. The strut is to strengthen the drivers side bracket. Works great and the angles are right.
 

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I know this is old.
I used the MetalCloak track bar but switched the frame side to a double shear affair. Home made bracket with a cross over strut to the passenger side. The strut is to strengthen the drivers side bracket. Works great and the angles are right.
When/if you get a chance can you post some pictures of this. Passenger side mount point, frame mount and whole front. Thanks.
 

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I guess you mean of the Metal Cloak deal? I can't post pics on the computer. I can do it on my phone though. I'll get some pics tomorrow.
bob1340 yes pictures of how you set up your Metalcloak front track bar would be great as I need to make a decision on how I want to proceed with my LJ.
 

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Hope this works. Sure can’t post pics on the pc anymore. The Metal Cloak comes with a Heim joint on the frame side. The bolt size is 5/8”. I had a JKS which uses a 9/16” bolt on the frame side. I drilled the frame side hole to 5/8”. I built the simple bracket in the pic placing the Heim as close as I dared to the bolt attaching the bracket to the frame side bracket. After getting the angle correct between the fabbed bracket and Heim joint I tightened up the bolt going into the frame mount. I did weld the bolt into the fabbed bracket.
 

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BTW Even though this gives me a double shear joint that is in the correct plane, I still trust the frame side bracket like eating street sushi in Tijuana. I welded a 1” tube to the fabbed bracket and bolted it to the passenger frame rail. In the above photo you can see the tube welded to the flat vertical place on the bracket. No bends in the tube. I wanted it ridge.
 

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I did this about a year ago. I’ve had very little off road time on it.
At the same time I did this I mounted Synergy 2” springs, Fox shocks, Metal Cloak control arms, curry joint kit on the front axle upper CA’s, and a ZJ steering setup.
The alignment of the track bar/Drag link looks good. I did some very close measurements of the JKS track bar before I pulled it off. The center fulcrum of the JKS and MC Heim are actually very close. Zero sign of bump steer etc.

Before I mounted the new springs I put everything together and cycled everything every way I could. Got some closeness but no way for contact unless something breaks. My old JKS Track bar would just touch the stock front diff cover. The MC has great clearance.
I have the bump stops set up to wear the tire just touch the flares at full flex.
The Jeep rides much better than before.
 

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This is interesting. Does the hem joint mounted in that orientation allow better performance than if it's bolted just to the frame side bracket? I got the MC drag link after seeing the jks one has clearance issues with my front diff cover. However i just drilled out the frame side mount and bolted it up.
 
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