Ah crap! I was just looking closer at the pictures in the service manual and saw a hole in the axle flange that would facilitate you being able to get to the clips, springs and other tid-bits. Looked at my original axles and sure enough, there's a hole that my new axles don't have!
Top Hat e-brakes
So...I was putting my Centric Rotors and Yellow Stuff pads on today and had difficulty removing the left rear rotor. It seemed the rear e-brake shoe was not rested up against the backplate.
First of all is this a problem and secondly HOW IN THE WORLD do you work on this without removing the axle?
My service manual says nothing about removing the axle when servicing the e-brakes.
BTW...I had axles and gears installed last week. Could they have f***ed up re-installing the e-brake shoes?
First of all is this a problem and secondly HOW IN THE WORLD do you work on this without removing the axle?
My service manual says nothing about removing the axle when servicing the e-brakes.
BTW...I had axles and gears installed last week. Could they have f***ed up re-installing the e-brake shoes?
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Could it be that you just need to turn the adjuster to move the e brake pads away from their drum to provide enough space to slide the rotor off?
Often inside the rotor on the e brake drum's outer edge there will be a groove or lip. If the e brake pads are not adjusted away from the drum far enough they will catch that lip and it will appear that they are not against the backing plate where they should rest when you pull on it.
Often inside the rotor on the e brake drum's outer edge there will be a groove or lip. If the e brake pads are not adjusted away from the drum far enough they will catch that lip and it will appear that they are not against the backing plate where they should rest when you pull on it.
I got the rotor off eventually, it just didn't slide past the e-brake shoe easily. It was then I found the shoe wasn't flat against the backplate.
Anyone else tried working on thier e-brakes with aftermarket axles that don't have the hole?
Oh ya, and thanks to BLACK RUBI for the constructive advice. That was very helpfull.
Anyone else tried working on thier e-brakes with aftermarket axles that don't have the hole?
Oh ya, and thanks to BLACK RUBI for the constructive advice. That was very helpfull.
Went out to look at the problem again. My new axles do have holes, but, they don't help much. Was able to get a needle nose in there, remove the clip, bend it out for more tension and re-install. Pad sits flush now and rotor goes on without rubbing.
Obviously, I wasn't attempting to offer advice just a (small) bit of humor and sympathy. Sorry.geroux said:I got the rotor off eventually, it just didn't slide past the e-brake shoe easily. It was then I found the shoe wasn't flat against the backplate.
Anyone else tried working on thier e-brakes with aftermarket axles that don't have the hole?
Oh ya, and thanks to BLACK RUBI for the constructive advice. That was very helpfull.
It could be that the brake is not releasing due to the equalizer being rusted together. This happened on both sides of my Jeep. The second side just happened a couple of months ago. If the cable is slack on that side then this is probably your problem. Check this thread out.
http://www.rubiconownersforum.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=25725
And to remove the equalizer I had to pull the axle shaft.
I put plenty of anti-seize on them to prevent it from happening again.
http://www.rubiconownersforum.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=25725
And to remove the equalizer I had to pull the axle shaft.
I put plenty of anti-seize on them to prevent it from happening again.
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