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Discussion Starter #1
:cry:
went for a small trail near my home to watch a thunderstorm.
few days ago.
talking to a member Brian and commented on how nice his Rubi
looks with new lift. RE LA.
we were talking about how he had a dammaged diff front cover.
we looked at mine....YIKES if got the same hit.




ok ideas on how to prevent further damage.
:?:
 

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Mac, what type of TB do you have? Not that it really matters, but maybe a different one with a slightly different bend near the frame mount might help.

Other than that, if you have adjustable upper an lower CA's, you may be able to shorten both up a little to pull your front axle back. This will cause your wheelbase to be slightly less and will increase the front DS angle slightly, but this shouldn't be a problem if it works.

You will probably need to adjust your toe-in after you move the axle as well. There are probably other options too, I'm just not sure what they are. Good luck,

Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #3
its a RE track bar.....new stuff came with the Long arm kit.
i called and spoke to "mike " at RE. and im EXTREMELY DISAPOINTED
in his response. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr :mad:



no more room to pull the axle back...
 

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mac:

So your original stock track bar bracket is still on your Jeep? Looks like it is here:


No offense, but I'd ditch that POS in a NY minute and get me a JKS:


See the big swoop in the trackbar? No diff clearance issues so far on mine. The JKS/Currie/ORGS leaves the stock frame mount and navigates around the diff.

It appears RE relocates their TB frame mount farther forward to clear the diff with their straight TB. A 5.5 inch lift wouldn't have a problem because the frame end is higher. I still don't know why others with RE 4.5 LAs have not had this problem.

But it only happens when the left front wheel is stuffed and the right front is way down I'll bet.

Just my$.02. :(

Jerry
 

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Discussion Starter #7
JerryC said:
mac:

So your original stock track bar bracket is still on your Jeep? Jerry
yes.....BUT!
the orig mount gets drilled out....to allow larger bolt to hold POS
RE TB.
:cry:
 

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4x4mac said:
JerryC said:
mac:

So your original stock track bar bracket is still on your Jeep? Jerry
yes.....BUT!
the orig mount gets drilled out....to allow larger bolt to hold POS
RE TB.
:cry:
mac:

Do not despair.

You drill out the original mount for the JKS bar also. If I can find the directions (that may take a while) I can tell you what size hole it was. I want to say 9/16 because I had to buy a new drill bit. JkS gives you a tapered bushing to take up the slop in what was a rod end hole in the stock frame mount.

Jerru
 

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This is a known problem on the 3.5 and 4.5 kits.
Been alot of talk about it in the TJ section of JU.

I think JerryC has a good solution.

Your other option is to have someone bend your trackbar for you. If you need additional length due to the bend, you can have it cut and sleeved.

If I am remembering correctly,
Carolina Rockshop
has done this to numerous RE trackbars to fix this issue.

Another solution would be to get
5.5 springs and some 35s
:poke:
 

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Elfs lift and 35's

Elf,
what other changes did you make when you added your 35's? Did you go ahead and change your gearing to 4.88 as well? How's the horsepower now? I'm getting to the point of ordering RE 4.5 SF kit and subbing in the 3.5" coils and doing the 1" BL. Plan on using 33" - how much more work if I decide later to do 35's?
Bill
 
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Well don't sub the coils out and your there.... Add at least the rear adjustable track bar and CV bracket for it, and a CV shaft. You should space your wheels further out too really. You may need to get some Teraflex rear shock relocators too.

And just to save to most amount grief, get a Tom Woods DS.
 

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I believe Jerry is right, a 9/16" hole was required. The JKS (ORGS) bar comes in two sizes OGS 125 for 4" or more of lift and OGS 126 for 1.5" to 3.5" of lift. You can also order a Currie or ORGS bar if JKS is out of stock, though I believe Currie only sells the 4" or greater bar. JKS uses the ORGS part numbers.

ken
 

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whatroc

I added a new Monroe Steering stabilizer and rims with the appropriate backspacing.

Other than that, NADA.
I will eventually get 4.88s, but I am going to get my Superior Front Axles first so I don't snap the stock ones with the added torque being applied to them with the new gears.

On the road, the performance with the stock gears and 35s is acceptable. 5th gear is rarely used anymore, but I can deal with that. I have just modified my shift points for the other 4 gears and it runs good. The wider stance provided by my new rims has made the turning capability of my jeep almost as good as stock even at this height. That constantly amazes me. I do need some warn flares tho, because I stick out a good 2-3" past the stock flares.

Eventually I will need to upgrade some of the steering components to avoid breakage. I would like to find a steering box brace immediately
if anyone knows of a brand that doesnt have to be heavily modded for the Rubi please let me know
I am pretty sure I am upgrading to the Currie HD system.

My toe in needs to be adjusted, but I am going to wait until I go to Paragon for the second time in Sept before I get an alignment.
No point in me getting one now, just to knock it out on some rocks.
But other than that, this thing runs really good.

If you eventually plan on going to 35s, keep your 4.5 springs as you will need them, a bodylift and some extended bump stops to no hit your flares offroad.

WOW, what a mouthful

Thread hi-jacking complete, you may now return to your previous subject
 
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Jerry is right on the 9/16" hole (you really don't need a drill bit, a dremel will widen it in a couple of seconds) not a lot of metal to remove. I have the OGS 125 on mine with the 3.5 springs. I thought the RE went with a bigger hole? What was the reason for moving the RE bracket foward, more clearance or something to do with the long arms.

Ron
 
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I forgot about the steering stabilizer.. I got the Monroe as well.. Like $20 at NAPA.
 

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Elff,

You can set your own toe-in pretty easily. It will get you close if it isn't too far out. Just measure the distance between the two front rims at the front of the wheel and then compare that to the distance between the rims at the rear of the wheel. You want the front to be 0-3mm less than the back (slightly toed in).
 

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Discussion Starter #18
elff said:
Another solution would be to get
5.5 springs and some 35s
:poke:
:lolbonk:

your funnnny!
 
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RE front track bar clearnance

Hi Guys

I thought I would increase the clearance between the track Bar & Front Diff cover with a strategic blow with a sledge hammer!!!

I have to pull the cover off any way to fix a dent made by a rock down lower on the cover.

This is my first jeep with the front diff on drivers side and was my first hardcore run with it.

Thanks

Brian
 
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I did inspect mine last night, I have the 3.5" Kit Coils and 2" spacers, it is dang high, but looks like it should clear the diff just fine even under full flex.

I had to remove my Tranny skid though, as the front DS was nailing it.
 
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