Big can of worms here, but having tried disco's, I will never recommend them to any of my friends, period. I won't pay a fortune for something like the new JKS switchblade either so that's out. I did pay a fortune for the dual-rate swayloc and have been running it for years now. I also run a rear anti-rock from Currie. Don't like the others on the market and see no reason for them. Blaine is working on one of his own but it's not out yet...
That said, while I do own the dual-rate swayloc, and have been very happy with it's performance, I've had some pretty crappy customer service from ORO and can't in good conscience recommend it. Customer service goes a long way with me and if you can't get help when you need it, what good is the product?
As to the product itself, I have been fortunate with mine in that it does work. You have to be very careful though with which design you get-early ones broke the outter bar, other generations have had other issues as well. I'm not sure what version/generation they're on now but it has a D style setup in the bushings rather than the older style splined version. Having seen the difference on rigs up close, I don't believe the current style is any better than the older splined style and honestly think it's a more stiff setup in it's current form. I'm not sure what version I have-it's the later version of the early setup that still has splined ends. They had upgraded to a thicker/heavier tube to avoid breakage but also went to an e-coated arm. I have this one and have been happy with it. My issue is that the air cylinder was cut for the thicker powdercoated arm and with the e-coating being a much thinner coating, I have a sloppy fit on the cylinder which makes noise and moves around. It works great and hasn't had any failures as of yet, but in order to fix this-I get to spend $500 for a new version. Not happening. The dual rate bar does work as advertised and does lockup much more stiff for on-road handling on the street which is very nice. It's actually two bars in one and handles both chores great. Off-road it's just like the Currie Anti-rock so you gain the advantage of balancing suspension front to rear for a very predictable, balanced feel. Far greater than any disconnect.
Had I to do it over, and if I were to do it NOW, I'd recommend front/rear anti-rocks both. If you're in no rush, I'd see what Blaine has to offer as the dual rate bar was his idea to start with and there are more ways to skin a cat than one would imagine. Either way, the Currie anti-rocks are tried and true, proven design that just plain work. Currie's customer service is excellent in my experience as well so like I said earlier, that goes a long way with me. I originally got the Swayloc so my wife could handle the Jeep well on the street as it was her daily driver for a long while prior to our baby girl. My wife is a good driver, but there are a ton of other idiots on the road that aren't so I wanted her to be able to maneuver well and predictably in the Jeep if needed. The swayloc does that nicely. Now that I'm driving it more as the DD and have run both locked up and unlocked in off-road mode (same as anti-rock), there is definitely more body roll in the anti-rock version of the swayloc but nothing that can't be overcome or handled. With the combination of the rear anti-rock, it balances things and makes it much easier to deal with than just the front anti-rock on it's own. Paired with good shocks, I see it being no issue on the street anymore as I've run it in about every configuration there is with and without shocks, different settings on the shocks, factory bars, discos front/rear, swayloc with factory rear and no rear and swayloc with rear anti-rock and about every combination you can think of in between. Hands down there is no comparison and no benefits to anything other than front/rear anti-rocks on or off road if you really know how your Jeep handles and what it's going to do in what conditions. You can make some things excel well in one area but lack in another, nothing is ever going to be perfect 100% for both on and off-road so something is always a sacrifice in one way or another. The anti-rock is about the best I've seen with nailing down something that works in both instances and is a good compromise in handling for both. It may not be as stiff on the road as a factory bar or swayloc but setup properly, it's no slouch either.
Long story short, you can't go wrong with the plain jane trusty "old reliable" Currie anti-rock. Get one for front and the universal rear with 20" bent arms and 44" bar and be set.
Best of Luck,
Mike