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I have used JKS quick disconnects for over three years. I am a bit tired of getting greasy and having to rock the Jeep to reconnect. I started looking at other sway bar options. Are there any beside the following that I should look at?

JKS Switchblade $999
http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/merch ... isconnects

Currie Antirock $300
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/antirock.aspx

Savvy dual rate????

ORO SwayLOC manual $589, air remote $689
http://www.offroadonly.com/products/sus ... ndex.shtml

Terraflex S/T dual rate $960 out of stock
http://www.teraflex.biz/products/tj-wra ... -lift.html
 

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That is about it. The only other would be Skyjacker's version, it is more of a "easy to disconnect" swaybar. The reviews and real world tests I have seen have not been favorable on it though. So I personally would not consider it in your line up.

I am not sure, but I think the last time I looked at the terra flex, it was a similar setup (but better) to the Skyjacker. Similar meaning that it is a swaybar that stays connected all the time, but you turn a knob or whatever and it disconnects.

I know nothing about the Savvy kit. The JKS is super trick! But the cost is crazy last time I looked. But I certainly think it would be a good choice.

I run the Currie, good old tried and true anit rock. You can never go wrong with it. Set it up, find what you and the jeep like and forget about it. The biggest contender to put up against the Currie (until JKS released) was the ORO Sway Loc. It has its true followers, and seems to do well. But I have read on here some unsatisfactory posts about it. What exactly it pertained to I cannot recall at this time.
 

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Big can of worms here, but having tried disco's, I will never recommend them to any of my friends, period. I won't pay a fortune for something like the new JKS switchblade either so that's out. I did pay a fortune for the dual-rate swayloc and have been running it for years now. I also run a rear anti-rock from Currie. Don't like the others on the market and see no reason for them. Blaine is working on one of his own but it's not out yet...

That said, while I do own the dual-rate swayloc, and have been very happy with it's performance, I've had some pretty crappy customer service from ORO and can't in good conscience recommend it. Customer service goes a long way with me and if you can't get help when you need it, what good is the product?

As to the product itself, I have been fortunate with mine in that it does work. You have to be very careful though with which design you get-early ones broke the outter bar, other generations have had other issues as well. I'm not sure what version/generation they're on now but it has a D style setup in the bushings rather than the older style splined version. Having seen the difference on rigs up close, I don't believe the current style is any better than the older splined style and honestly think it's a more stiff setup in it's current form. I'm not sure what version I have-it's the later version of the early setup that still has splined ends. They had upgraded to a thicker/heavier tube to avoid breakage but also went to an e-coated arm. I have this one and have been happy with it. My issue is that the air cylinder was cut for the thicker powdercoated arm and with the e-coating being a much thinner coating, I have a sloppy fit on the cylinder which makes noise and moves around. It works great and hasn't had any failures as of yet, but in order to fix this-I get to spend $500 for a new version. Not happening. The dual rate bar does work as advertised and does lockup much more stiff for on-road handling on the street which is very nice. It's actually two bars in one and handles both chores great. Off-road it's just like the Currie Anti-rock so you gain the advantage of balancing suspension front to rear for a very predictable, balanced feel. Far greater than any disconnect.

Had I to do it over, and if I were to do it NOW, I'd recommend front/rear anti-rocks both. If you're in no rush, I'd see what Blaine has to offer as the dual rate bar was his idea to start with and there are more ways to skin a cat than one would imagine. Either way, the Currie anti-rocks are tried and true, proven design that just plain work. Currie's customer service is excellent in my experience as well so like I said earlier, that goes a long way with me. I originally got the Swayloc so my wife could handle the Jeep well on the street as it was her daily driver for a long while prior to our baby girl. My wife is a good driver, but there are a ton of other idiots on the road that aren't so I wanted her to be able to maneuver well and predictably in the Jeep if needed. The swayloc does that nicely. Now that I'm driving it more as the DD and have run both locked up and unlocked in off-road mode (same as anti-rock), there is definitely more body roll in the anti-rock version of the swayloc but nothing that can't be overcome or handled. With the combination of the rear anti-rock, it balances things and makes it much easier to deal with than just the front anti-rock on it's own. Paired with good shocks, I see it being no issue on the street anymore as I've run it in about every configuration there is with and without shocks, different settings on the shocks, factory bars, discos front/rear, swayloc with factory rear and no rear and swayloc with rear anti-rock and about every combination you can think of in between. Hands down there is no comparison and no benefits to anything other than front/rear anti-rocks on or off road if you really know how your Jeep handles and what it's going to do in what conditions. You can make some things excel well in one area but lack in another, nothing is ever going to be perfect 100% for both on and off-road so something is always a sacrifice in one way or another. The anti-rock is about the best I've seen with nailing down something that works in both instances and is a good compromise in handling for both. It may not be as stiff on the road as a factory bar or swayloc but setup properly, it's no slouch either.

Long story short, you can't go wrong with the plain jane trusty "old reliable" Currie anti-rock. Get one for front and the universal rear with 20" bent arms and 44" bar and be set.

Best of Luck,

Mike
 

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I ran the swayloc for several years... their single rate then their dual rate... both air actuated.

If I did it again, I'd get a manual version so as not to rely on wiring harness (had two go out on me).... plus, I don't see the advantage of disconnecting from your cab when you have to get out to air up and air down anyway. Switchblade looks cool, but for the price, you're going for sex appeal before performance.

If you have a jeep with a lots of body roll on road, I'd recommend the swayloc.

I've seen some antirock setups on jeeps with lots of body roll in their suspensions that were too dangerous for onroad use, IMO.

Otherwise, get an anti-rock. I think that offers a good compromise.... and you set it and forget it. Keeps everything simple. You won't take corners as aggressively as with a swayloc, but that's not a big compromise (unless you're dodging midnight deer).
 

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I really wrestled with this same decision as I wanted the dual rate sway bar but the cost was so high. Also wasn't sure about how much roll there would be with the currie antirock. But based on the cost, I chose to try the antirock and must say that I think it is awesome! There is more body roll on turns but I don't feel it is that much more. You might want to try it before paying over $800 for the dual rate options.
 

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You know, I have read many threads similar to this one. I use to be in your shoes, only with less choices at the time. When you consider something like the currie and also I imagine the JKS is the same.... The whole "how much body roll does it have?" question is hard to guage by listening to people over the web. First, what I consider a lot of body roll, might not be that bad to you! And viceversa. Also if you rode with me, or even just asked what setting I run mine at... it might not suit your taste either, you might hate it. What I am getting at is basically what Chojeep I think was saying.

The definition of body roll varies from person to person. Just the same, jeeps vary due to weight, driving styles, etc... I had no one to take a test ride with when I made my decision, and I was told that the currie had a lot of body roll in it's loosest setting. But I was use to having no swaybar! When I did stick the Currie on there it quickly became one of my top favorite mods and i wish I had not waited so long to get it. It was NOTHING like what I had pictured in my mind it would be or feel like. I run mine in the loosest setting all the time now, most don't. But it suits me and where/how i drive.

I just wanted to throw these thought in there for you to consider. Cause it is applicable in more than one of the choices you have listed besides the Currie. Everyone is giving their honest opinion based on their experiences, to help out.
 

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Chojeep said:
I really wrestled with this same decision as I wanted the dual rate sway bar but the cost was so high. Also wasn't sure about how much roll there would be with the currie antirock. But based on the cost, I chose to try the antirock and must say that I think it is awesome! There is more body roll on turns but I don't feel it is that much more. You might want to try it before paying over $800 for the dual rate options.
I've had both the Dual rate SwayLock and the Currie Antirock. Both systems have trade-offs, but I am much happier with Antirock.
 

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Keep it simple...less parts. I had the TeraFlex and it was OK....kinda got a little lose so rattled a bit when engaged. Also had to make my own swaybar connects for it as the ones they sent....well...sucked.

I then decided to ditch it and go back to a stock sway bar and JKS Quicker Discos. Didn't care for that set up either as to get it as high as I needed while disconnected, I had to bungie the thing up against the fender. Soooooo...

Antirock is what I'm running now...I run it on the softest setting and love it. Of course there is a little more body roll than stock, but body roll is relevant to the center of gravity. If you have a large spring lift you're going to see more roll than if you have kept your COG down. This setup is too easy. You get to the trail, air down and go. When you're done (if close enough)....you drive home. (Unless you're running a trailer queen :lildevil: )....Honestly...I believe in keeping it simple and the AntiRock is the simple setup. Less crap to go wrong, which simply means....when you spend your $300 on the setup, you don't have to save for that time when something else goes wrong. $300 means $300. Functionality.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I appreciate the input and the thought all of you put into your replies. Searches in this forum and others show a spectrum of opinions. It would be nice to meet up with people who use different sway bar systems to test/compare and find out which one is best for my needs.

Anyone in SE Texas want to go off road? :)
 

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MJM said:
I have used JKS quick disconnects for over three years. I am a bit tired of getting greasy and having to rock the Jeep to reconnect.......l
I really understand your dislike of the JKS quicker disconnects due to the hassle and you aren't the first one to post your displeasure using them. I have read a bunch of reviews on most of the systems but, it all comes down to costs versus actual trail time. I might get 2 short off road rides a month but, it averages out to once a month year round. I'd probably try the Currie Antirock® for the $300 if, I wanted to upgrade away from the quicker disconnects but, then I stop and rationalize my situation.

$300 can buy a chit load of nitrile gloves, shop towels, detergent........etc. $300 can also buy 1 new bling bead lock wheel, one nice 35" tire mounted and balanced, a cheapo winch and the list goes on. Plus, I don't attempt to reconnect my sway bar until I reach a known level spot.

Just food for thought along with my 2¢
 

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MJM said:
I appreciate the input and the thought all of you put into your replies. Searches in this forum and others show a spectrum of opinions. It would be nice to meet up with people who use different sway bar systems to test/compare and find out which one is best for my needs.

Anyone in SE Texas want to go off road? :)
Somewhere around here I started a thread with all the sway bar options I have tried and I listed the pros and cons of each.

My list was:
Stock links
Rancho disconnects
JKS Quickers
ORO Dual Rate SwayLock
JKS Quickers (second time)
Rough Country
Currie Antirock.

In the end, if you are doing both front and rear, Antirock is hands down my favorite choice. If doing front only, I liked Rough Country or JKS quickers (different reasons). That is after abuot $1500 dropped on all the various setups and MY opinion and MY testing. Testing was done in Moab, Rubicon trail, many places in Idaho that only locals would know by name, and the gilbert ORV park in northern Minnesota.

Good luck, and don't waste as much money and time as I did... :D
 

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f9k9, but isn't that comparing a full disconnect with a tension bar.... different wheeling experiences, different stability. I wheeled disconnected for three years before upgrading to a tension bar... and boy, what a difference on the rocks!

Point taken on saving money for other mods that you may need... always gotta weight the options.
 

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kidmugg said:
f9k9, but isn't that comparing a full disconnect with a tension bar.... different wheeling experiences, different stability. I wheeled disconnected for three years before upgrading to a tension bar... and boy, what a difference on the rocks!

Point taken on saving money for other mods that you may need... always gotta weight the options.

I second your thoughts! Sounds like I run my antirock just like you do, loose. And F9K9 and I wheel together, so he knows the terrain I am refering to. To each their own, but all I know is I can see why it is some what difficult for a antirock owner to describe the performance gains they recieve with one installed. You almost have to drive/ride in a jeep equiped with one to understand. Least that is what my experience is. I just wish I had not waited so long to get mine, hands down one of my favorite mods. I will, one day, add one to the rear.
 

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SweetPee said:
..............I can see why it is some what difficult for a antirock owner to describe the performance gains they recieve with one installed. You almost have to drive/ride in a jeep equiped with one to understand............
Your absolutely correct. I understand the concept but, still "don't "get it". Supposedly you don't lose flex but, still maintain stability. Does the flex just come slower? I'll ride in someone's Antirock equipped rig but, I ain't getting in with you Sweetpee :rotflmao:
 

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f9k9 said:
SweetPee said:
..............I can see why it is some what difficult for a antirock owner to describe the performance gains they recieve with one installed. You almost have to drive/ride in a jeep equiped with one to understand............
Your absolutely correct. I understand the concept but, still "don't "get it". Supposedly you don't lose flex but, still maintain stability. Does the flex just come slower? I'll ride in someone's Antirock equipped rig but, I ain't getting in with you Sweetpee :rotflmao:
Do I scare you F9K9?? :lildevil:

According to Currie... each setting on the antirock arm equates into 1" of flex, so at the loosest setting (the last hole in the arm furthest away from the bumper) you allegedly have most all your flex. Move your settings up one hole closer to the bumper, and you allegedly loose 1" of flex.

The torsion bar that is used in them is tough and will twist 360º or more. I cannot say that I have lost any flex, the only thing that limits mine is shocks (for now).
 

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SweetPee said:
...............Do I scare you F9K9?? :lildevil: ..............
Not at all, I'd just want to ride in one before my social security checks start arriving. :rotflmao: If, each hole loses 1" of flex, both of ours are DDs and we lose a little stability on the road then, I am perfectly content with my set up.
 
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