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Discussion Starter #1
New member but a week long lurker researching ROF.

I purchased an 05 Rubi with intentions of wrenching on it. Currently the only thing left on the frame is the engine before I can drop the frame from the tub. Ultimate goal is to have a well built, clean grocery-getter and occasional trail rig yet install 33's and re-gear. When I purchased it, it sat with a teraflex 2" spacer kit and a set of 265 tires (31").

Factory bushings on all control arms, track bars, swaybar disconnects, etc. are shot so I'm on the fence with replacing bushings on the factory suspension components or going all-out, replacing everything with a 3"-4"lift kit. If I chose the later, I'm sure I'll have no issues with clearing 33" tires. However, would keeping the 2" coil spacer lift and adding a set of flat fender flares clear 33's?
 

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I have a 4" lift and 33" tires with no problems. You can check out my rig in the "garage" area here on ROF. Welcome and have fun with your new toy.
 

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You could install a 1.25" body lift and 2" suspension lift and clear 33's without problem. Most people I've seen online recommend Old Man Emu 2" lift. The body lift would allow you to install a tummy tuck down the road as well. Seeing that you have the ability to separate the tub from the frame this would be the perfect time to install the tummy tuck. You could even get new frame mount that lift the body and thus don't have to use the small pucks for the body lift. You could also just highline the fenders. The stock suspension with highline fenders will clear 33's but just remember you'll still only have the stock <8" of travel. If you want to keep it stock looking you can always highline the stock fenders. Sadly AEV no longer makes their highline kits for TJ's.

I'd say if you want to run 33's either do a 3" suspension lift using Savvy or Nth Degree springs or do a 1.25" body lift and 2" OME suspension lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Whats the reason for removing everything from the frame ?
A long-term project. My first vehicle was a 97 4 banger in flame red. Found this Rubi for a great price, knowing it needed some work. Figure build a "like-new" Rubi for a 1/3 the cost of a new one.

Frame is out. Waiting on rear spring relocation brackets before it gets painted. Tub has a couple spots that need some attention.
 

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Ditto what many have already said. I've had an OME 2" with 1.25" body lift and 33's on mine since 2009 with no complaints. It does well off road, is still comfortable enough to regularly commute to work in, and clears the tires just fine. All the specs of mine are in my 'garage'. Cool project by the way, and welcome - lots of good info on the forum.
 

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Blank slate... if I wanted to run 33s I would plan on a low profile skid (tummy tuck), body lift of some sort to help with the tummy tuck. and the 2.5 or 3 inch springs with all Johnny Joint control arm bushings, and track bars. If I had it all apart I would redo front track bar frame mount and reinforce axle side mount. Either HD axle control arm mounts or skid plates to strengthen the mounts.
 

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....Frame is out. Waiting on rear spring relocation brackets before it gets painted. Tub has a couple spots that need some attention.
This is a perfect time to outboard the shocks - hopefully that's what you mean about relocation brackets.
 

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Beauty! yours is in great shape to start work on.
You have my dream garage to work in. Soooo LUCKY!!!! I am outside with mine...

I got 33"x12.5" tires on 15" rims.
With a 3" body lift, seems to have decent clearance. I am not quite ready to do any serious trail riding yet, so no having max clearance ins no real issue for me at this time. I suppose, if I were wheeling... a suspension lift would be needed to add ground clearance required for that purpose. For now, I'm fine with it as it is.
 
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Beauty! yours is in great shape to start work on.
You have my dream garage to work in. Soooo LUCKY!!!! I am outside with mine...

I got 33"x12.5" tires on 15" rims.
With a 3" body lift, seems to have decent clearance. I am not quite ready to do any serious trail riding yet, so no having max clearance ins no real issue for me at this time. I suppose, if I were wheeling... a suspension lift would be needed to add ground clearance required for that purpose. For now, I'm fine with it as it is.
When i got my firt jeep in high school i had the same setup as you. I wheeled it just fine. Ya i scraped a lot but it worked on my high school budget. Have fun with it man.

To OP: you could highline the stock fenders or get high line flat fenders and clr 33s with just a 1.25in body lift. Heck with high line fenders and 2 or 3in SL and 1.25in BL you can clr 35s.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
This is a perfect time to outboard the shocks - hopefully that's what you mean about relocation brackets.
I've read mixed reviews on this. I'll look into it further but for now, just the coil mounts will get moved.

Gears came in over the weekend.

Does anyone have a biased opinion with Energy Suspensions body mount w/ 1" lift? The original BM bushings are shot. Seems like this is the only kit with new bushings and also gives a 1" lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, I ordered a slew of parts yesterday in the direction of a suspension lift.

Core 4x4 Tier 4 control arms and Track bars in red
Artec industries Trackbar mount
Metalcloak dual rate 3.5" lift coils & Rocksport shocks, their bump stop system, brake lines, & rear shock mount kit
Energy Suspension 1" Body mount kit

I might start looking at 315 tire sizes...
 

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I have the Energy Suspension body mount bushings with 1/2" body lift. They are bushings, it's what they do. :)
Do the Energy Suspension tranny mount and Brown Dog the engine mounts at the same time.
 

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I've run 33s with just a 1.25 JKS body lift and Spidertrax 1.5 wheel spacers for quite a few years. Just a little rubbing under full lock and compression.
 

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Yes Stock Fenders and Flares....sorry for the delay...never saw any notifications.
I checked your user profile and you are set for instant notification. Your listed email is .... @C harter.net, make sure that's correct.
 
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