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Has anyone out there had any problems with the stock tires rotating on the rim. I've had it happen 3 times now. The first time I thought I was nuts, the second time I started to catch on, last time I maked the wheels and tires and actually measured how far they rotated. Each time, the tire pressure is at 15-16 lbs. I've had no problem with the pressure above 18 lbs. This is during exteme climbing in rocks. Traction really hasn't been a problem, but the stiff sidewall has been. A couple of tires have rotated almost half a turn during a long weekend!
 

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I haven't seen this on the Rubi, but I've yet to find a reason to air down below 20 psi in the typical CA terrain (not talking dunes here...). I've seen it in an earlier life in rallye racing.

I personally think the (perceived) benefits of tire pressure below 20 psi are offset by other potential problems like your tire spinning on the rim, higher danger of unseating a bead, reducing the clearance when running stock sizes. In addition the stock tires are 'E' load range so the sidewalls are pretty stiff to begin with.

C>
 

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I have the same problem with load C tires and softer sidewalls but I run pressures in the single digits. The problem is worsened in mud or snow as the bead surfaces and rims get wet. The torque of 4:1 t-case and 4.10 or lower gears is what's causing this. The bead glue does not help. Only cure is real beadlocks.
 

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I run 12psi for sand and snow and have yet to have a problem with tire spin. Unseating a bead is avoided by running tires on the narrowest recommended rim like 35x12.50's on 15x8 rims or even 33x12.50's on 16x8's. For all my other wheeling I run street pressure 35psi. Since I'm still running the stock tires I need all the ground clearance I can get. My plan is to eventually run 35's so aired down I am equal to a 33.
 
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Stock wheels, 35"'s, 12 psi, no issues so far at all.....

For the rock crawling I do, the 12 psi makes all the difference in the world, I am even thinking of going lower.. probably not, it is real good at 12 psi.
 

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After checking out alot of different air pressures I run 10 psi for the rocks and have had no problems losing a bead or spinning the tire on the wheel. And I run 12 psi on the sand and no problems either. I did forget that I was running 12 psi on the sand and did 2 brodies (got lucky) and as soon as the second was done BAM (duh) 12psi on sand doing brodies=not a good thing. I didn't blow a bead or even worse like I should have. Anyways all this is on the stocker wheels and tires.

Just my .02 worth as usual




Mo
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I would like to thank those repying to this subject. I've found that Goodyear dealers don't/won't deal with this. They blame the problem on Jeep. Several people I've talked to directly have had this problem in the past but for most it went away with good radial offroad tires. I've recently gotten Jeep Customer Service envolved, but it's too soon to tell where this might go. Maybe it's too soon, but I've soured a little on Goodyear tires, just on the way I've been treated by the dealers. I had hoped to keep these tires until I could get a 3.5 RE lift installed and then go to 33x12.50xR15's. I do like the new M/T Dick Cepek Fun Country II.
 

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Why would you think it's a GY or Jeep problem? :? Like I said it's the torque of the t-case and gears doing it. The bigger the tires the more pronounced the problem will be. Mine has spun with Radial Swampers, bias ply Swampers, BFG MTs, GY MTRs and now with BFG Krawlers. All you have to do is mark the tire at the valve se and watch them go.

You can either live with it beiing happy that the wheel will spn inside the tire rather than snapping the axle. Or, if you don' like the fact that you loose forward motion when that happens, you can get beadlocks or trade the Rubi for a regular TJ. I hope you won't do the latter. :lol:
 

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Lil'Green said:
...You can either live with it beiing happy that the wheel will spn inside the tire rather than snapping the axle. Or, if you don' like the fact that you loose forward motion when that happens, you can get beadlocks or trade the Rubi for a regular TJ. I hope you won't do the latter. :lol:
I have to agree with Li'Green. If the tires rotating on the wheels don't cause any balance problems, forget about it. I run my 305/70R16 MT/Rs at 12 psi offroad, and I have not had any issues so far.

But that doesn't mean I won't be looking for beadlocks in the future.... :wink:

Jerry
 

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If the tires do move (just mark the sidewall next to the valve stem and see if they do or not) and get thrown out of balance, use the balancing compund. Equal comes to mind. The MTRs I have seem to be fairly good even when rotated and thrown "out of balance". They still ride smoothly home from the trail. They're the easiest balanced tires I have ever had.
 

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I have wheel/tire slippage with my WJ wheeling in Moab. Marking the tire at the valve stem means I can realign them after wheeling before going on the road if they are way out. Usually I can wait till we get back from a trip. That is what I am going to do with the Rubi.

Beadlocks are great if you don't plan on long fast highway driving. I took mine off the WJ because 1) getting the correct balance was a major PIA 2) the ride was worse than on non-beadlock wheels. I now keep my OMF beadlocks just for off-road.

Bill
 

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I have the same problem with my 265/75/16 MTR tires on the Moab rims. I air down to 12 PSI and they all rotate on the rims. I'm thinking about getting the centramatic wheel balancers that Elff referred to in another thread. Then there will be no balancing issues after it happens. I'm surprised that more people don't have problems with this. I just figured that's why they make beadlocks. I have to wonder if possibly using the black bead goo or some other type bead seating compound might help. I worked as a mechanic for 10 years and in the last couple of years (before I changed professions) we switched to a waxy type bead seating compound that I know will stay slippery forever. You'd think the other stuff would help at least a little bit comparatively. Worth a try I think.
 
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I have the stock tires and wheels and have never aired down below 18 pounds. Haven't had any problems.

However, I did go to my local Discount Tire store an bought a road hazard policy on all 5 tires. They now rotate and balance for free, an, if I should damage a tire beyond repair it will be replaced for free.

Dan
 

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Spinning

I have had numerous problems with spinning the wheels inside the tire - I normally run 12 to 15 psig off road. I am using 15x8 American Racing rims. Per the Goodyear shop, this can be very normal - the last time I had the problem I was 10 oz out of balance - the tire shop rebalanced at no cost and I was on my way.
 

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I run 12 psi off road and I am not seeing this with 315/75R16s on the stock Moabs. At 12 psi I have managed to get some pretty crazy sidewall flex and distortion at times. If I am spinning the tires on the rims, it isn't enough to affect the balance to where I can feel it.

I'm going to have to remember to mark my tires and wheels before the next trip.

Jerry
 

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ive been down to 10psi on both steel rims and Moabs....
never noticed an issue
im going rock crawling today and will mark my tires
n rims

stay tuned

mac

EDIT!!!!
12/03/03 thurs trip i was runnin 12 psi
the tires DID NOT rotate....
next time i will try 10psi.

mac
 

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Interesting thread..........

We have 35X12.50X15 Swamper SSR's on 15X8 Weld wheels on both of our rubys.

Our tires have to be rebalanced everytime we go wheeling. Running at 8-9psi off road. Sounds like this could be our problem :?:

I'll have to mark our tires the next time out and see.

Thanks for the info!

Tim
 
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