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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone,
I have an 05 TJ Rubicon, and I just ordered a new set of front and rear dual rate springs from MetalCloak. While getting everything ready I noticed I again have some slop in both front axle u-joints. I cannot find my notes on the u-joints. In the shop I found a box marked d44 front with some Spicer 5-760x. I believe those are the right u-joints. I can't find my notes from the last time I swapped them, and for the life of me I can't remember if the Rubicon has anything wonky going on when pulling the shafts. I don't remember there being anything special that needs to be done(clips or anything.) So my new springs will be in on Tuesday, and since I will have it apart I figured I might as well knock out the u-joints again. I can't seem to get more than 15-20k out of a set of u-joints. So, if you have done the front axle u-joints on an 05 Rubicon lately, and know of anything wonky & have some tips please let me know. I also lost my notes on the front and rear driveshaft u-joints. I have been looking around & searching the site, and if I remember correctly the last time it was a pain because 05-06 had different u-joints than the prior models. I remember there was a lot of speculation as to what they were.
I think the front shaft was
Front DS- Pinion 5-212x / 5-793x
Front DS- CV/T-Case 5-213x / 5-790x
and the rear was
Rear DS at T-Case 5-3147x / 5-795x
Rear DS at Pinion 5-212x / 5-793x
If someone who knows the 05-06 can confirm this I may just knock out all the u-joints while I am down there. Thanks for your help, and I will keep searching, however when I think I have found the answer it seems there is always someone contradicting the information LOL.
Also, if anyone has put in a set of Metalcloak springs and has any tips they want to share, please let me know. From what I have gathered they seem to be quite a bit longer than other springs. I may have to find the coil spring compressor if I can't get enough droop to slide them in. I hate using that thing :p
Thanks!!!
 

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It's been a while since I've pulled a front axle but I don't remember anything tricky about it. We might have a thread or post somewhere on ROF with U-Joint part numbers. An alternative is to upgrade to Revolution axles which have the larger JK U-Joints.
 

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going through some of this myself, but have not gotten to putting things back together.

as I understand, 1330 u going for the axles. Spicer 5-1330X U-Joint is what I ordered for the drive shafts. It will be a couple weeks before I get around to putting things back together.

Curious about the Metal Cloak Springs as well. Options for parts for this platform is getting scarce. Looking at springs as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
going through some of this myself, but have not gotten to putting things back together.

as I understand, 1330 u going for the axles. Spicer 5-1330X U-Joint is what I ordered for the drive shafts. It will be a couple weeks before I get around to putting things back together.

Curious about the Metal Cloak Springs as well. Options for parts for this platform is getting scarce. Looking at springs as well.
LOL this is what I was talking about, in looking around it seems most of this is a mystery. The information I found had no real consistency. I will be doing the axle shafts for sure this week or next, so I will report back to save you some hassle.
I will also let you know how the springs work out. I have teraflex springs now and they are not great. Not great at all LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's been a while since I've pulled a front axle but I don't remember anything tricky about it. We might have a thread or post somewhere on ROF with U-Joint part numbers. An alternative is to upgrade to Revolution axles which have the larger JK U-Joints.
Thanks John, I will check those out now. The brand name sounds familiar. Are you running them?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was also considering picking up a couple of Tom Woods driveshafts. Seems they have some pretty good reviews. I think I may haven even used them in the past, name sounds really familiar.
 

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I have TW shafts on the TJR. Just looked at them again for the LJR, but don't want to change shafts until an axle swap that I have in mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have TW shafts on the TJR. Just looked at them again for the LJR, but don't want to change shafts until an axle swap that I have in mind.
From what I can tell it seems the big two are TW and Adams. There is also what looks to be a dana spicer shaft, however I haven't found much on that. I was looking at the price of parts to rebuild both shafts, and its not a tremendous amount more to go with a new TW or Adams. I might bite the bullet and just buy two new shafts. Are you happy with the TW?
 

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From what I can tell it seems the big two are TW and Adams. There is also what looks to be a dana spicer shaft, however I haven't found much on that. I was looking at the price of parts to rebuild both shafts, and its not a tremendous amount more to go with a new TW or Adams. I might bite the bullet and just buy two new shafts. Are you happy with the TW?
I was torn between Adams and TW's but I can't remember what the deciding factor was (maybe price, u-joints, or that the Adams was painted). I ended up with an Adams shaft though with no complaints.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I was torn between Adams and TW's but I can't remember what the deciding factor was (maybe price, u-joints, or that the Adams was painted). I ended up with an Adams shaft though with no complaints.
I am still working on sourcing some parts for the rubicon shafts. I might just go with an Adams or TW just so that I don't have to deal with this ever again LOL. Too bad I didn't figure this out sooner, I could have probably gotten a great black friday deal :p
Thanks for the info
 

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On my '06 LJ we did use a coil spring compressor to put the MC springs in. It may be possible without it, but it is much easier with the compressor tools. AutoZone will loan them to you at no charge.
 
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I typically replace my hub bearings every three years, as soon as I detect some play. I also replace the axle U-joints at the same time, although still good, cheap preventive maintenance.


I have been happy with the TW shafts.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
On my '06 LJ we did use a coil spring compressor to put the MC springs in. It may be possible without it, but it is much easier with the compressor tools. AutoZone will loan them to you at no charge.
From all of the reading I have been doing it looks like it is a must. My springs arrive tomorrow. I might start working on it tomorrow night if I am not in the field all day. Thanks for the info.
 

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As for the metalcloak springs, i'll be curious how you like them after you get them installed. I have a set of 2" OME springs (I believe) but want to go about an inch higher. The only problem I see with the MC is the dual rate where part of the spring is compressed during normal driving. I don't need (or want) excessive articulation so this seems like it would be a waste to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
As for the metalcloak springs, i'll be curious how you like them after you get them installed. I have a set of 2" OME springs (I believe) but want to go about an inch higher. The only problem I see with the MC is the dual rate where part of the spring is compressed during normal driving. I don't need (or want) excessive articulation so this seems like it would be a waste to me.
I will measure the jeep before and after to see what the ride height is, if that helps. I just hope they are nicer off road than the Teraflex springs, as they are not a pleasant ride even with the tires aired down. I only drive the Jeep off road and it has never been a daily driver so any extra articulation I can get will be welcome. I have high hopes for the springs as everything I have got from Metalcloak so far has been quality. Barring any fiasco, I will have everything installed by this weekend or next.
 

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As for the metalcloak springs, i'll be curious how you like them after you get them installed. I have a set of 2" OME springs (I believe) but want to go about an inch higher. The only problem I see with the MC is the dual rate where part of the spring is compressed during normal driving. I don't need (or want) excessive articulation so this seems like it would be a waste to me.
If you like the ride you have, don't require the increased articulation, I would suggest adding 1 inch spacers.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I popped in today and did the passenger rear, it was all that I had time for. To get the spring in I had to use a coil spring compressor, disconnect the sway bar and drop the shock from the mount. Wasn't too bad and the jeep sits 1.5 inches higher with the Metalcloak spring. The only negative so far, and it's not so much a negative here in AZ with 300 days a sunshine, but whatever they use to paint or coat these springs practically wipes off with you hand. So if you live in a rain or snow state you might want to touch them up with some paint when you are done.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I just got the back all done, 50% there! So the back is about an inch and a half higher. If you are planning on installing the Metalcloak springs you must have a spring compressor to get them in unless you want to drop the control arms. The number you want to shoot for is 14 inches compressed. The first spring you can get away with 15, but the second is 14 or nothing LOL.
 
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