Only change the plugs, the coil rail is good for 100k+ miles. Be sure to use dielectric grease :wink:
Spark plug coil pack
I got new plugs from the dealer should I replace the coil rail too? If so should I get that from dealer or napa? $160 from napa.
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Dirk-do NOT replace rail unless you have to. I did and wasted the $$$ for no reason. Guess I have a good spare now...
Ditto what said above.
And from the dealer, they told me up around $300 ish when they were troubleshooting my P0305 code.
I replaced my plugs with the same as OEM - NGK something or other.
And from the dealer, they told me up around $300 ish when they were troubleshooting my P0305 code.
I replaced my plugs with the same as OEM - NGK something or other.
Antiseize on the threads, not much just a dab.
Cool, I thought they were different than old plug wires and was pretty sure they either worked or didn't work. I have 90K and my only engine code is for my speedo sensor. I will save my money. What about the MSD ignition control module? Is that worth upgrading to?
No, again, save your pennies. I wouldn't touch a thing on there except put the new plugs in. You did get standard factory NGK replacements didn't you? They seem to work best in there.
When you pull it, there's just two bolts I think holding the rail down. Gently pry it off and set it out of the way. There isn't that much room at the wire connector at the back of the block so it won't move very far, but will be JUST enough to get all the plugs out. Some di-electric grease works good too-a dab on the plug boots when you put them back on.
Is this the first plug change in 90K? Wow-interested to see what they look like. Because of the double-fire on both intake and exhaust, at around 30K for my first, a few were SHOT! I change them out every 25K on the dot now. Sometimes as early as 20K.
Course, this hasn't done ANYTHING for my misfire issue... :laugh:
Another thing you COULD do while you do the plugs is pull the TB/IAC and THOROUGHLY clean that good with some good TB cleaner. If it's the first time, dealer stuff is a bit stronger and works faster. Get an old toothbrush and scrub the crap out of it-don't leave any haze or dark coloring anywhere-shoot for mirror finish in all of TB, around flex plate, etc., etc. Order the gasket the day before so it's there when you tear it apart. Most places don't stock them. It's about $4.00 or so. On the IAC, excercise the plunger and clean it thoroughly too. Should realize smoother running and possibly better mpg when you're done with all of it-assuming oil change and new air filter too... Only saying this as I make this routene maintenance on my rig and get it all at once. Easier to remember that way.
Best of Luck,
Mike
When you pull it, there's just two bolts I think holding the rail down. Gently pry it off and set it out of the way. There isn't that much room at the wire connector at the back of the block so it won't move very far, but will be JUST enough to get all the plugs out. Some di-electric grease works good too-a dab on the plug boots when you put them back on.
Is this the first plug change in 90K? Wow-interested to see what they look like. Because of the double-fire on both intake and exhaust, at around 30K for my first, a few were SHOT! I change them out every 25K on the dot now. Sometimes as early as 20K.
Course, this hasn't done ANYTHING for my misfire issue... :laugh:
Another thing you COULD do while you do the plugs is pull the TB/IAC and THOROUGHLY clean that good with some good TB cleaner. If it's the first time, dealer stuff is a bit stronger and works faster. Get an old toothbrush and scrub the crap out of it-don't leave any haze or dark coloring anywhere-shoot for mirror finish in all of TB, around flex plate, etc., etc. Order the gasket the day before so it's there when you tear it apart. Most places don't stock them. It's about $4.00 or so. On the IAC, excercise the plunger and clean it thoroughly too. Should realize smoother running and possibly better mpg when you're done with all of it-assuming oil change and new air filter too... Only saying this as I make this routene maintenance on my rig and get it all at once. Easier to remember that way.
Best of Luck,
Mike
[quote='05TJLWBRUBY]No, again, save your pennies. I wouldn't touch a thing on there except put the new plugs in. You did get standard factory NGK replacements didn't you? They seem to work best in there.
[/quote]
or the Champions
[/quote]
or the Champions
Yea I got the 6pack from the dealer have to go back today to pick up my new gas cap. I was skeptical on the MSD heard about it the other day from a guy at work who has it on his vette and "every vehicle he has ever owned". I am leary about upgrading anything on the engine as it seems to be so solid and dependable for wheeling right from the factory. I am not sure if this is the first time I have done the plugs or not. I was pretty regular at the dealer for maintenance for a long time. I have done plugs but never on anything without a distributor.
[quote='05TJLWBRUBY]No, again, save your pennies. I wouldn't touch a thing on there except put the new plugs in. You did get standard factory NGK replacements didn't you? They seem to work best in there.
When you pull it, there's just two bolts I think holding the rail down. Gently pry it off and set it out of the way. There isn't that much room at the wire connector at the back of the block so it won't move very far, but will be JUST enough to get all the plugs out. Some di-electric grease works good too-a dab on the plug boots when you put them back on.
Is this the first plug change in 90K? Wow-interested to see what they look like. Because of the double-fire on both intake and exhaust, at around 30K for my first, a few were SHOT! I change them out every 25K on the dot now. Sometimes as early as 20K.
Course, this hasn't done ANYTHING for my misfire issue... :laugh:
Another thing you COULD do while you do the plugs is pull the TB/IAC and THOROUGHLY clean that good with some good TB cleaner. If it's the first time, dealer stuff is a bit stronger and works faster. Get an old toothbrush and scrub the crap out of it-don't leave any haze or dark coloring anywhere-shoot for mirror finish in all of TB, around flex plate, etc., etc. Order the gasket the day before so it's there when you tear it apart. Most places don't stock them. It's about $4.00 or so. On the IAC, excercise the plunger and clean it thoroughly too. Should realize smoother running and possibly better mpg when you're done with all of it-assuming oil change and new air filter too... Only saying this as I make this routene maintenance on my rig and get it all at once. Easier to remember that way.
Best of Luck,
Mike[/quote]
I have been fighting a misfire code as well took it to the dealer they just did the decarbon thing twice it got so bad I finally put a new coil pack on ran really well till I was trying to pass someone and using a alittle more Rpm's than normal so I put a new set of champion plugs in no more misfire but I haven't had it over 3500 RPM'S either something keeps telling me I have a lifter or a cam wearing.
When you pull it, there's just two bolts I think holding the rail down. Gently pry it off and set it out of the way. There isn't that much room at the wire connector at the back of the block so it won't move very far, but will be JUST enough to get all the plugs out. Some di-electric grease works good too-a dab on the plug boots when you put them back on.
Is this the first plug change in 90K? Wow-interested to see what they look like. Because of the double-fire on both intake and exhaust, at around 30K for my first, a few were SHOT! I change them out every 25K on the dot now. Sometimes as early as 20K.
Course, this hasn't done ANYTHING for my misfire issue... :laugh:
Another thing you COULD do while you do the plugs is pull the TB/IAC and THOROUGHLY clean that good with some good TB cleaner. If it's the first time, dealer stuff is a bit stronger and works faster. Get an old toothbrush and scrub the crap out of it-don't leave any haze or dark coloring anywhere-shoot for mirror finish in all of TB, around flex plate, etc., etc. Order the gasket the day before so it's there when you tear it apart. Most places don't stock them. It's about $4.00 or so. On the IAC, excercise the plunger and clean it thoroughly too. Should realize smoother running and possibly better mpg when you're done with all of it-assuming oil change and new air filter too... Only saying this as I make this routene maintenance on my rig and get it all at once. Easier to remember that way.
Best of Luck,
Mike[/quote]
I have been fighting a misfire code as well took it to the dealer they just did the decarbon thing twice it got so bad I finally put a new coil pack on ran really well till I was trying to pass someone and using a alittle more Rpm's than normal so I put a new set of champion plugs in no more misfire but I haven't had it over 3500 RPM'S either something keeps telling me I have a lifter or a cam wearing.
Took about a half hour to change plugs last night. They didn't look too bad so I checked my receipts and they were done at 50k miles so they only have about 38k. Hardest part was getting my step stool out from behind all the junk in the corner of garage. Fired right up and idled fine test drive today sometime.
My rail failed at 92K miles..FYI.
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
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