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Today I helped a buddy install the relocation bracket on his 2002. This was a good chance to compare parts and fit up before I do it to my Rubi. First note is that Skyjacker no longer makes a bracket for the manual and another for the auto. According to skyjacker the auto fits both fine and from this experience they apparently do. Second thing we noted was that the 231 and 241 case shift levers are opposite each other with the 231's down and the 241's up. I don't think this will make much of a difference. Okay we followed the directions and everything went together perfectly until we got to the part where you have to cut the rod from the shift lever and put in a sleeve to extend it. Now call us dumb, but we followed directions, they had been perfect so far. The measure, cut, measure, weld, it don't fit because it is to long. Okay lets measure under the vehicle and we found out that we didn't need to even do it, so now it was grind, measure, cut, measure, grind, reweld, reinstall, purchase new rod from dealership. What a pain. We looked at mine again and the bet is that the rubi's will need to be extended since my adjustment is already at the end of the rod. So lesson learned today was measure what you got before you put blind faith in the instructions. Oh and never tell the wife "Just a couple of hours no problem."

Ron
 

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That story almost brought a tear to my eye............

Remember measure twice cut once.
 
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:shock: I have tears right now.Definitly don't tell the wife/or girl friend for that matter!
 

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LOL.......
 
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Thanks for the help PRB!!!

---repost---

PBR and I met up early this morning for some wrenching on my Jeep - there was an exhaust clearance issue following the install of my 33 Engineering transfer case skid plate that we took care of.

Basically the 3" main exhaust runner on the passenger side of the oil pan was rattling against the upper control arm mount on the frame. It would only rattle a tad when starting but I wanted to take care of it anyway. We dropped the exhaust and whipped out the air grinder...life is good!

The other part of this mornings work was the installation of a new transfer case shifter bracket that PBR turned me on to when we were discussing my transfer case linkage issues following the install of the 33 Engineering skid. Everything was stuffed up in there! Thanks again for the suggestion - everything is perfect now...shifts much better compared to stock.



The only install issues to consider were:

1 - installation of the new bracket DID NOT require removal of the torque shaft bracket (mounted on the body). The instructions mentioned that this would need to but there is pleanty of room down there and everything cleared fine.

2a - the big PITA...the shift rod that goes between the transfer case shift lever assembly and the torque shaft. Instructions say to "cut shift rod 5.5" from the end of the shaft." OK guys...there are two ends of the shaft...which one do we measure from? We cut where it looked best and were happy with the decision.

2b - Per the instructions "insert 3/8 inch tubed spacer...then weld to produce shaft length of approximately 9 3/4 inch." OK guys...this is getting old. Are we measuring between the attachment points or the overall length? Instructions were not detailed enough for me. A simple pic would have been nice. The rest of the instructions were GREAT!!!

2c - reinstalled everything and noted that were could not get the lever to adjust...we could not get the adjusting trunnion in close enough and the overall rod was just too long. So we did something really crazy - we put the transfer case in 2wd along with the shift lever and measured the distance between the two rod mounting holes were the rod would press into...like 5.75".

2d - now we measured the same holes with the t-case in 4low and the shift lever in the 4-low position...about 6" between them. You know what the original length on the rod was between the connection points...about 6"!!! We didn't need to cut and lenghten the rod at all! We wasted the better part of two hours doing something we didn't need to do.

Just a word to the wise...when cutting and altering linkage...measure before and after to see if this is really necessary. In some applications it may be but not in mine. I will order a new rod to replace the one were cut and welded...and then re-cut and re-welded back to original length. Oh well, we learned something and had fun.

If anyone is doing a belly-up I would suggest this part as a necessary item. PBR has been considering a Rubicon install of the same part.

Skyjacker part number #JSRB231A

National Tire & Wheel has the part for $52.95...everyone else was $65+

Was it worth it...hell yeah.
 

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Doesn't AA make a kit similar to this one that requires no cutting and welding??? i know you didnt have to, but just curious if anyone knows the difference?
 
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AA has a bracket that comes off the T-case/ transmission bolt line and basically replaces the body bracket. It leaves the pivot shaft alone. IMHO it looks like chit. Last time I priced them, it wasn't much cheaper than the Skyjacker bracket. Personally I like things to look clean and professional, and that is why I don't like the AA bracket. As for the AA being stronger than the skyjacker or vice versa, I don't think there is any real issues. SKyjacker removes all the factory hardware, and the AA only replaces 1 piece. Ease of install probably goes to the AA bracket, and of course the skyjacker has problems with the older style AX-15 transmissions. I will be installing my skyjacker bracket soon. Probably before next weekend, I have problems staying in 4lo with the BL in. Look for a write up coming soon.

Ron
 
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