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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
It has been a while since I posted updates, I installed everything but the ram assist a while back, this was pretty much unbolting and bolting the upgraded parts, biggest difference was the steering box, the PSC is huge in comparison to the OEM:
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These parts alone made made a big difference, steering effort was greatly reduced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
And this weekend I finally got around at installing the ram, I tried installing it to the tie rod, but there is not enough clearance between the tie rod and the differential cover for the tie rod clamp, at full left turn the tie rod is not more than 1/8" from the differential cover. So for now the ram is on the drag link.
I am not 100% satisfied with this and thinking what can be done to move it to the tie rod. The easiest solution could be changing to a lower profile differential cover.
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Haven't had a chance to drive it on a trail yet, but the steering feels more responsive on the highway.
 

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I have my axle pushed forward about a inch and my poison spyder cover was hitting the track bar when I stuffed the axle. I went to a Dana cover and still had to clearance one of the fins.
I am interested in your opinion after some miles on your assist set up.
 

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On my comp rig, I had the front axle pushed forward and it caused similar issues. I switched diff covers to minimize the effect, but it did not resolve it completely.

Seems like it's better to only extend the wheelbase from the rear axle.
 

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I see this problem a lot, why not bow the tie rod forward, it will also be more resistant to bending backward.
 
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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
I have my axle pushed forward about a inch and my poison spyder cover was hitting the track bar when I stuffed the axle. I went to a Dana cover and still had to clearance one of the fins.
I am interested in your opinion after some miles on your assist set up.
It has been a few months and a trip to Moab, I wish I could tell you who good or bad the set up is but I have nothing to compare it against, other than the stock steering. Yes, the system did reduce the turning effort a lot, on and off road, the only gripe I have is in when parking, when turning the steering at or near idle speed it gets really heavy for a couple seconds, I never noticed this when off roading, no matter how slow I go, only when parking.
However I did decide to go ahead and change the ram assist to the tie rod, I will be going back to the factory cover and installing a low profile diff guard, hopefully it will give me enough clearance
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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
And right after this is fixed I am putting a stop to my build
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Crown BBK with Mopar J8 booster and master cylinder, the booster and master cylinder are on back order and should be here by the end of the month

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Discussion Starter · #68 · (Edited)
I haven't done anything to the Jeep since the last update, the J8 booster and master cylinder continue to be on back order, and it doesn't look like they will be available anytime soon. Since I am due for brakes in the near future I started looking for options, one was to order the Crown J8 booster and master cylinder, but reviews on that set up aren't that great, with people reporting leaks and other issues. So I ended up ordering a Raybestos MC391385 master cylinder which has 1 1/8" bore (pre 2012 JKs have a 1" bore, 2013 and newer have a 1 1/16" bore, the J8 has a 1 1/8").
I am hoping the added volume of this master cylinder will keep the pedal effort and feel similar to, or better than, the stock brake system with the new front brakes.
 

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My wife has a 2017 JKU Sahara on stock-sized tires (32"); I did the front brakes last summer using a Teraflex front big brake kit (brackets to relocate the calipers and bigger rotors). This really improved the brake feel. It is now very similar to my stock Gladiator brake feel (much stronger than the stock JK).
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
My wife has a 2017 JKU Sahara on stock-sized tires (32"); I did the front brakes last summer using a Teraflex front big brake kit (brackets to relocate the calipers and bigger rotors). This really improved the brake feel. It is now very similar to my stock Gladiator brake feel (much stronger than the stock JK).
I saw that kit, but opted for the Crown instead because it uses the dual piston calipers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 · (Edited)
Two weekends ago I finally installed the new brakes and master cylinder. New rotors (left) vs the old ones:
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Rotors and calipers installed:
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And this is how the look through the wheel vs. the old ones, at this stage I was test fitting the calipers, the pads weren't installed yet:
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I did the initial break in as per the instructions, and in the process of driving the easy 100 miles, but I can already tell there is a big change in performance, brakes feel firmer and I don't need to push the pedal as far to stop.
Installation was pretty straight forward, just like doing rotors and pads, with the exception of the new master cylinder, which gave me the opportunity to replace the bake fluid.
 

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Nice Art!
I guess the JKs and newer used dual piston calipers? On my old LJ I installed the big brake kit - dual calipers instead of one large one. Decent braking improvement but when the vacuum brake boost was replaced with hydro - holy cow what a tremendous improvement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 · (Edited)
There is no version of the JK that came with dual piston calipers as far as I know, unless we consider the J8, which is (was?) based on the JK platform. This is an OEM caliper just like the ones I took off
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Jeep offers the J8 system as an upgrade kit for the JK which consists of the bigger rotors, dual piston calipers, larger booster and master cylinder.

The newer JLs have dual piston calipers, here is a picture of a take off from a Sahara:
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