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Discussion Starter #1
OK. Now I'm ready to readjust my rear trackbar. Out of all the things I'm willing to do on my Jeep, this is probably my least favorite. Everytime I do this I wind up cussin', spittin' and otherwise having a bad time of it because it's always a struggle.

How do you guys do it? What am I missing here that makes this so difficult?

Jerry
 

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jerry,

i had to pull the whole thing off it get it adjusted correctly, not fun

-ds
 

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Hey Jerry...

Knowing that you have a come along get a good anchor point and then hook up to the rear bumper and pull in the desired direction. Then you can eye ball the center or get out the tape measure and find two equal points to measure from..Dial in the TB and let off the tension..You might have to do this twice for complete accuracy but it will work...

hope this helps..

Sean
 

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I guess I just got lucky.

I bounced the front and rear a few times with the track bars disconnected and both axles centered right up - very close. I measured from the frame to the outside edge of the wheel using an adjustable carpenters square and made sure I was exactly over the center of the axle each time. Once I was happy that everything was good, I adjusted the track bar to fit the holes, slipped in the bolt, and bounced everything again to make sure everything stayed about the same. Then I made a fine adjustment, based on measurements again, in complete turns and raised one or the other corner of the Jeep to line up the holes. Then I torqued everything down and checked again. It all stayed good.

I have a JKS front track bar and Currie rear with their bracket. I also have upper and lower JKS CA's. The CA's might have made this easier since they don't pivot at the connection points.

Good luck and it is very important to get the axles centered or you will create additional drivetrain vibrations due to the new angle created in the horizontal plane.

Ken
 

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Jerry....

tried n tru come-a-long
works...slow easy process.
:wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the tips guys. The issue I have is the axle is off center and the track bar bolt at the axle bracket is under load. Makes for a tough removal. Remember, with an AiROCK suspension at some time you have to decide what your final highway ride height is going to be, and then you set everything up at that height. I've been playing with this thing for a while, and the height I set the track bar at originally was lower than what I've decided to run now.

Steve Stalboerger at ORO had this suggestion which is a great variation on the comealong - Use a 1 inch wide ratcheting cargo tiedown to pull the axle from the opposite side of the frame. I think I'm gonna try this technique over the weekend. I'll let you know how it works out.

Ken, I have a Currie adjustable bar and bracket also. Excellent piece of hardware. I agree with your assessment of horizontally induced vibes.

Jerry
 

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Jerry, my Currie Trackbar has a very slight bend that needs to face towards the back. It will install either way, but if installed backwards, and yes it fits - I had originally installed it this way, I am sure it will bind during flex. I am sure you are already aware of this, but I thought I should mention it just in case since the Currie directions don't state anything about this.

The ratcheting cargo strap will work well. I didn't need it for my track bars, but I did use it to hold and tilt my front axle when I replaced the Upper Control Arms. I looped it through the skid plate and back around the passengers side of the Axle Upper Control Mounts, then tightened the strap or loosened depending on which way I needed to go to align the bolt holes.

Couldn't you just adjust the air to loosen the load on the bolt? That is really all I was doing when I lifted the corner of the body when the axle stays on the ground. One corner when lifted will push down and the other corner when lifted will pull up on the bolt.

Good luck and have a great day!

Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hello Ken. Yes, I'm aware of that bend. IIRC, the instructions do not address which way the bend goes. I have mine set up like yours. The Johnny Joint positions itself in the relocation bracket easier when it's installed the correct way.

Your comment about the control arms is interesting. I did not need to pull or push anything when I installed my CAs. But I only installed front lowers and rear uppers. Also JKS here.

I could adjust the air as you mentioned, but I'd be going back and forth to hit it right. With the strap I think I'll be able to do it in one shot.

Thanks.

Jerry
 

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When you take off the front uppers, the axle wants to rotate forward due to the springs being mounted on the top front of the axle and they are applying quite a bit of downward force. So the strap enabled me to pull back and apply force in an orthoganal direction so I could align the bolt holes easier. I didn't have any problem at all with the lowers.

Good luck and have a great day!

ken
 

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Ken White said:
When you take off the front uppers, the axle wants to rotate forward due to the springs being mounted on the top front of the axle and they are applying quite a bit of downward force. So the strap enabled me to pull back and apply force in an orthoganal direction so I could align the bolt holes easier. I didn't have any problem at all with the lowers.

Good luck and have a great day!

ken
ken do you have a body lift, if not have you noticed any trackbar clearance issues with tub?
 

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No, I do not have a body lift. The only clearance issue that I thought I might have is with the fuel tank during flex, though that little baby rear sway bar may help. I don't think the rear will flex enough to hit the tub.

You are talking about the rear - right?

I don't have any issues with the front track bar, just maybe the differential housing during extreme flex - only time will tell.

Have a great day!

ken
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ken White said:
That is really all I was doing when I lifted the corner of the body when the axle stays on the ground. One corner when lifted will push down and the other corner when lifted will pull up on the bolt....
Ken
Duoooh! Of course.... That's the easiest way.

It is amazing how sometimes your brain gets locked with a particular idea and fails to analyze the situation. It is also amazing that I actually reread these posts and saw something I had overlooked. :roll:

Ken's suggestion is elegantly simple. What could be easier than working with a jack next to the Jeep? I'll let you know how it goes this weekend.

Jerry
 

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Good luck Jerry. It worked very well for me and I hope it goes as well for you.

Ken
 

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Jerry, how did the adjustments go and is AirRuby all dialed in?

Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ken White said:
Jerry, how did the adjustments go and is AirRuby all dialed in?

Ken
Hello Ken:

I'm sorry it took so long to respond, I'm afraid I missed your last post.

I wound up setting the Rubi's highway ride height to where the rear trackbar was centered. This is an advantage of an adjustable suspension. :D

The front trackbar needed to be centered. I had no difficulty removing the bolt on the axle end - I jacked the passenger's side slightly and it was out. I recentered the axle by bouncing it up and down a few times, adjusted the trackbar length, inspected the track bar bolt, and torqued it down. Took about 15 minutes.

I just picked the Jeep up from the alignment shop. They had no difficulty getting it aligned with the JKS upper arms. Steering wheel is centered, and it feels good. Tomorrow I'll take it out on the highway and do a final check for vibes at higher speeds. We're off to Paragon next weekend, and that's about 180 miles each way - I definitely want to know everything is correct before I go.

On a related topic, I have noticed a slight interference between the JKS rear trackbar and the stock gas tank skid. I can see a small area on the upper lip of the skid where the trackbar is rubbing. If I can get a board or bar up there at the correct angle, a few applications of the BFH should cure it. I have plans to install a Kilby gas tank skid later on this year. I understand the Kilby skid does not extend quite as far forward as the stock one and eliminates this problem.

Jerry
 

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Jerry, thanks for the update. I wish I could afford, and had the ability, to install and play with a system like yours. I'm glad some of my suggestions worked well for you. I will look at my upper control arms tonight and let you know if I see the same clearance issues. If I do, I will use your suggestion to fix. :)

Have a great day and thanks letting me know about possible issues with the JKS arms.

Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ken White said:
Jerry, thanks for the update. I wish I could afford, and had the ability, to install and play with a system like yours. I'm glad some of my suggestions worked well for you. I will look at my upper control arms tonight and let you know if I see the same clearance issues. If I do, I will use your suggestion to fix. :)

Have a great day and thanks letting me know about possible issues with the JKS arms.

Ken
Hello Ken:

You should have no issues with the rear UCAs. The only thiong I've noticed is that slight rubbing between the rear trackbar and the gas tank skid. I installed a CV driveshaft, and rotated the pinion up to correct the DS angle. The trackbar has moved back as a result of this rotation. I'm going to try to correct this during the week. I'll let you know what I discover.

Jerry
 
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