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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I was a bit late with this thread. I had to rescue my F150 and replace the positive battery cable assembly (EXPENSIVE).

Feel free to share your cooler installs and temp sensors or gauges too. Share your cooler philosophes. .

I've heard different philosophies of flow. Here's my order and direction of flow...

Transmission Output (Bottom line) -->
Secondary Cooler (Enter Top Line, Exit Bottom Line) -->
Radiator Cooler (Enter Driver's Side, Exit Passenger Side) -->
Transmission Input (Top Line)

My first installation position of the secondary cooler had its input and output pointed down. I always had air trapped in the secondary cooler interrupting flow. Air was flowing and not fluid. The only reason I chose this installation was the cooler fitting better on the Jeep grill "V" bracket. I ditched this position and moved the cooler 90 degrees with the input and output to the right. The fluid enters from the top and exits to the radiator cooler from the bottom. Although air is in the secondary cooler, fluid still flows uninterrupted and exits the bottom.

I chose to have the fluid enter the transmission from the radiator cooler so that the radiator would warm the transmission as the engine warms up.

My secondary cooler is a B&M stacked configuration as opposed to a serpentine style.

The pictures show aluminum bars attached to the "V" bar, with the B&M cooler attached to the aluminum bars. I removed the radiator to have better access. My first cooler install was done through the driver's side headlight (pointed down version with no aluminum brackets). I realized I couldn't really do it right without having better access.
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I had this type of cooler on my TJ, I spliced the line between the factory cooler and the transmission, the input/output where at the bottom.
I could tell there was a significant difference just by grabbing the line with my bare hand, input side felt hot, output side felt warm
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Best is a stacked plate, the old tube and fin just don't reject enough heat apples to apples for face area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Which brings up the second question. How are you all getting temps?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I put in a drain plug in my pan, but instead of the plug, I put a temp sensor in its place. That sends to a dedicated temp gauge. The gauge reads cooler than actual……because of resistance maybe? I just did a rough calibration with an IR temp gun.

I wrote it up here Bolt on drain plug and sending unit.

I’m curious as to what others have done. I’ll open a separate thread if needed, but I doubt there’s much out there.
 
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I had to rebuild my transmission and added a drain plug but did the same as you and used the temp sender as the plug. It's all wired up but I haven't installed the gauge yet. Been fighting with a P0016 code but seem to have it figured out so maybe tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I can’t remember if I already mentioned this. My choice of hardware and setup resulted in my temps being off, but consistent. I calibrated my setup with an IR temp gun. I’m interested to see if your setup is more accurate. I’ll copy yours if it is 😁
 

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I probably would not install a temp sender in the drain plug because the sender really should be in the flow to get the best reading, imo...when the tranny is pumping oil there might not be enough good oil contact to keep the sender bathed...I would install somewhere after the oil leaves the tranny...on a different vehicle I had two temp gauges, one for the temp right before the oil enters the tranny and one for right after the oil leaves...I could see how hot the oil got and how cool it got.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I remember reading similar logic in my research back then. There’s much discussion. Putting it in the well of the pan was good for me.
Gave me a drain.
Available parts.
Sending unit fit.
Neutral temperature (meaning not hotter or cooler)

I‘m amazed it hasn’t even weeped since installation. My only downfall is matching resistance in the fabrication and the parts, but it measures consistently. I haven’t been concerned about the sensor not being submerged. There’s 5-6 quarts of fluid in the system. The snag is getting the right amount of fluid added when a cooler is added. Too little and it won’t flow correctly. Too much causes the fluid to foam and not circulate correctly.
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That looks about where I put a bung in for a temp sensor.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Putting in a bung would have been my first choice John. If I ever pull the pan, I’ll work harder toward that. Recently, I saw somewhere that someone is producing a bunged pan. I need to chase that down.
 

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I agree that having the sender in the line going to the cooler would be more accurate. I decided on the pan for the same reasons Norminator stated. Still haven't hooked it up but I will share the results when I do.
 

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If your favorite toy is a hammer everything looks like a nail...:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
My mind went to places. Help me.
 

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It was a newesh toy I was trying to learn how to use so any welding I had to do I would try to use the TIG rather than the MIG which I was much better with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks. You dignified my comment and that's probably for the better. I went the way of innuendo.
 
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