Rubicon Owners Forum banner

Relocated Air Pumps

20K views 26 replies 17 participants last post by  06moneypit 
#1 ·
I've been wanting to relocate my Locker Air Pumps for a while now, finally got around to it (before snow flies). So here's a picture show:



Aren't these mounts cadium plated?



WTF was JEEP thinking mounting these things down there? :mad: My Rubicon is only 2004, but New England Winters hard as hell on metal.



Eww. How much are these things?



Spent a few minutes with a wire brush and a little paint. Hammertone dries nice and fast.



Pulled the wire sheath off the pump harness (it was full of mud, surprise). After much deliberation I decided it would be easier and smarter to extend the pump wires with a harness rather than extending the Jeep harness. Just the red and the black wires were extended, the pinks where sealed off.



The business end of the pump(s) new harness.



The pumps mounted to the ABS shelf/plate (yes, it was starting to show alittle rust too). Note the wire harness on the pumps. The wires are about 6' long and all connections are soldered/heat shrinked.



And here they are in their new home. I pulled the front air line out of the wire conduit and ran the air line up to the new location. I added a new line (fed it down through that wire conduit) to mate up with original rear air line. The vent line was removed from the rear and relocated now on the fire wall. :thumbsup:
 
See less See more
8
Discussion starter · #7 ·
The pink wires are not used on the Rubicon. They must serve some purpose on a different application (but not on the Rubi).

The only sheath I fished wires out of was the short section of wire from the pumps to the plug connector. And I didn't really "fish it out", I cut it off. This is what's different about my Relocated Air Pump Project: I extended the pump harness, not the vehicle harness. It just seemed like the wiser and easier method. I'd much rather solder and shrink wires on a bench than try to make a weather proof connections under the Jeep in a hard to reach spot (there's not much factory harness down there to work with either). I did fish the front locker hose out of the conduit from the old pump location, stopping just below the ABS tray. The new rear extension line was stuffed in the same conduit, to link up with factory locker hose.

The whole project took me a couple of hours, total, taking my time, checking and deciding. I did over a couple of days 'cause of the rust removal and painting.

My parts list:
5/32" vacuum & wind shield washer hose, 6 ft (came in a box)
20' 18 awg black wire
20' 18 awg red wire
3/8 conduit, 5' (came in a bag)
air line connector (1/4"?)
shrink wrap for wires (had on hand)
cloth tape to wrap expose wires (had on hand)
solder (had on hand)
paint (had on hand)

I re-used the stock intake hose (it's nylon tied to the fuel filler neck) and the rear locker air line (cause I only had 6 feet of hose).

Oh, and so far it works killer! Musta been leaking air before, but my lockers engage even faster now. :fadein:
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Sayewhat said:
I just snipped the zip ties and fed it back out the loom.
Yup, I pulled the screws at the fuel filler recess. This let me get my hand in there with a pair of ***** (pliers) to snip that Zip tie that holds the breather hose to the fuel filler hose.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Sharp eye, but you're looking at the vent line. I didn't purchase any vent line, I reused the original vent line. What size does the parts manual show for the compressor supply tubing?
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top