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Hey all, I have a locker issue with my 2005 LJ Rubicon. When I engage the lockers the pumps activate normally for a split second and then continuously run in a pulsating manner every 1-2 seconds. They both never shut off. Only the rear locker is locking at this point.


Ive attached a link to a video of the pumps running.
New video by Seth Doyle

I pulled the lines off and covered the output nimples with my thumb and they continue to run and not pressurize. All indicators point to an internal leak inside the pump or an "off switch" inside the pump not working.

I opened up both pumps and found sand/rust particles around the o rings of the outport. I cleaned them up and assembled everything. It got noticably better with only brief pulsating every 5 or so seconds but still not pressurizing.

I'm wondering if the pitting around the metal portion of the output port that the o ring goes on is still causing a small leak. If so any ideas? Has anyone had their pumps act in this manner?
 

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Hi Seth and welcome. I've never torn that particular air pump down so I don't have any words of wisdom. The lockers only need about 5 psi so I would think the pump is fairly tolerant of pitting around an O ring.

I had a 150 psi Viair that I used for tire inflation and it slowly lost its ability to get even to 100 psi after a year of air down/air up on trails. Tore it down and was going to rebuild it with new reeds and whatever else I bought for it. That pump never worked right again - I think it was worse off after my 'rebuild.' Lost all faith in Viair compressors.
 
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John, thanks for the welcoming and reply. Yeah I'm just not sure either. But by just cleaning the dirt particles off the o rings it improved but it just won't completely pressurize and shut off. Just trying to do all I can before buying new pumps
 

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Just giving an update in case someone else runs into this issue.

First- both pumps were continuously running when I engaged the lockers. *Replaced the o rings inside the pumps and cleaned them out. Pumps now hold air and shut off.

Second- rear internal locker line had a small slit in it. *Replaced both the front and rear internal locker lines that were inside the diffs. Used the factory spring clamps to secure the lines but also used a zip tie on each line for added security as the spring clamps are known to fail.

Third- after all was buttoned up and I went for a test drive I noticed my front locker engaged but the light on the dash kept blinking. * Found the connector on top of the front diff had a broken wire. Repaired the connector wire.

Finally have air tight lines and locking diffs with sensors working as they should.
 

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Thanks for the write up. What type of tubing did you use to replace the stock line in the diff.
IMG_20200701_091433.jpg
 

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Thanks for the write up. What type of tubing did you use to replace the stock line in the diff.
IMG_20200701_091433.jpg
So the stock line is 3/16 ( 99.9%) sure and it was listed as "fuel line" on the tubing. I went to West Marine and got some fuel lines for boats with the same diameter. It was like $10 for 2 feet. Can probably get cheaper at AutoZone but they didn't have the size in stock.
 

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Just giving an update in case someone else runs into this issue.

First- both pumps were continuously running when I engaged the lockers. *Replaced the o rings inside the pumps and cleaned them out. Pumps now hold air and shut off.

Second- rear internal locker line had a small slit in it. *Replaced both the front and rear internal locker lines that were inside the diffs. Used the factory spring clamps to secure the lines but also used a zip tie on each line for added security as the spring clamps are known to fail.

Third- after all was buttoned up and I went for a test drive I noticed my front locker engaged but the light on the dash kept blinking. * Found the connector on top of the front diff had a broken wire. Repaired the connector wire.

Finally have air tight lines and locking diffs with sensors working as they should.
Hi, great wrote up. It gives me hope since these locker pumps are discontinued. Do you have a part number or size for the O ring you used? So the O ring you used had no issue with the pits you found before?

Thanks for any info you can provide.
 

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Hi, great wrote up. It gives me hope since these locker pumps are discontinued. Do you have a part number or size for the O ring you used? So the O ring you used had no issue with the pits you found before?

Thanks for any info you can provide.
I actually just bought a universal o-ring kit at AutoZone for $10 and tried a couple different sizes until I found one that was snug on it. The pits on the nipple didn't give me any issues! Good luck and respond back if you have any additional questions.
 

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I actually just bought a universal o-ring kit at AutoZone for $10 and tried a couple different sizes until I found one that was snug on it. The pits on the nipple didn't give me any issues! Good luck and respond back if you have any additional questions.
Thank you
 

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How did you get this electrical piece out? I pulled the screws but it won't come out. Also, did you pull off the motor for the pump? I think its the motor.
20201103_131239.jpg 20201103_131231.jpg

Thanks for any help u can provide.
 

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I finally got it all apart. Reassembled o rings looked like they were in good shape. Bought an o ring pack but none of the sizes were right. Will need to check somewhere else for the o rings.
 
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