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Both front and rear pumps are producing air?
Both front and rear pumps are producing air?
Rear Locker Failure?
Hi Folks! Not new to Jeeps but am new to the Rubicon trim. I just picked up a 2004 Rubicon with 111k miles and tested out the lockers. When engaged, the front locker works fine. The rear locker on the other hand would only flash. After some trouble shooting and reading other posts I traced it to a bad relay and replaced it. Now the locker blinks, changes to solid, and I can see the locker actuator shift position when engaged. However, when jacking up the rear and spinning the wheels they spin in opposite directions unlike when the front is locked. Additionally when putting the transmission into gear I can hold one wheel still while the other continues to move. All this makes me think the locker is not actually engaged but I’m at a loss for what next steps are and I’m concerned it means it’s something bigger wrong in the locker. Also when I opened the diff the fluid looked pretty old and there was build up on the plug and at the bottom of the diff. Any sage wisdom is greatly appreciated!
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The air lines are a typical culprit. The pumps only put out 5 lbs of pressure, so easy to check with out an air compressor. Actually thinking could be messed up with an air compressor. Might just switch the hoses at the pump and see if the symptom changes from front to rear. The one of these thing is not like the other trouble shooting method.
If the locker is actually bad, most go to a ARB. The front locker is rumored to be stronger than the rear and some have done that. Remember the rear has a limited slip that is suppose to work as well. Or just upgrade to a 60, lol.
If the locker is actually bad, most go to a ARB. The front locker is rumored to be stronger than the rear and some have done that. Remember the rear has a limited slip that is suppose to work as well. Or just upgrade to a 60, lol.
Welcome to ROF!
Sounds like you have done a good job of troubleshooting. The fact that you can see the locker actuator shift positions does seem to point to some sort of internal problem. The stock lockers aren't very robust and the best thing you can do is replace with an ARB air locker or Eaton E-locker. Before you take action, decide what you what to do with the Jeep. Anything bigger than stock tires you should consider a gearing change. Replace the axle lockers and gears at the same time. Do it once and be done with it.
typical blinking light is not getting full pressure. leak in the line or bad pump so yea, like inline6 said switch hoses to check this.....saw a youtube video of someone using a pocket pump when his oem pump went out
OP said blinks then changes to solid. That is not a pump or line failure.typical blinking light is not getting full pressure. leak in the line or bad pump so yea, like inline6 said switch hoses to check this.....saw a youtube video of someone using a pocket pump when his oem pump went out
There’s always that pesky line that detaches in the diff.
Correct. I checked all of the pumps, the lines (internal and external). The pumps run for a second and do not cycle on and off or run continuously. I can also see the actuator shift in the diff when the light turns solid.
This may be a dumb question but does the rear require some amount of load or difference between the two wheels for the diff to lock up? I only ask because when driving and I lock the diff it feels like the rear end crabs a little bit more than with the locker not engaged and just in four wheel drive. However, I can Jack up the rear end, hit the locker, and still hold one tire stationary while the other spins freely.
This may be a dumb question but does the rear require some amount of load or difference between the two wheels for the diff to lock up? I only ask because when driving and I lock the diff it feels like the rear end crabs a little bit more than with the locker not engaged and just in four wheel drive. However, I can Jack up the rear end, hit the locker, and still hold one tire stationary while the other spins freely.
I wonder if your transfer case shift sensor is bad. I’ve seen that send some crazy info.
No dumb questions here on ROF and no flaming allowed......This may be a dumb question but does the rear require some amount of load or difference between the two wheels for the diff to lock up? ...
I never tried to lock the rear diff with the wheels off the ground. You should be able tell if the diff is locking by driving on sand, gravel or even asphalt.
The diffs won't lock immediately, sometimes it takes several seconds. In my experience the front locker takes longer to disengage. When I went to a D60 for the rear axle it had an ARB locker which seemed to lock immediately.
Maybe my test if the rear locking is wrong. I flip the switch, hear the compressor kick on for a second, the light flashes then turns solid, I check the actuator and see it has shifted position, so everything appears to be working correctly. The only thing making me scratch my head is that I can put it in gear and hold one of the wheels stationary while the other spins freely. Idk if that is not enough for it to lock up as opposed the actually have both wheels on the ground with a load on them. When I’m driving around and lock the rear and turn in a circle it does feel like the rear is tighter than when unlocked and in 4wd. But the whole situation of being able to hold one wheel while the other is spinning when I Jack up the rear makes me think it’s not locking, but maybe my test is faulty?
You must be in 4-low for the lockers to work, since you get a locked light you must be in 4-low. For the locker light to go solid the PCM (powertrain control module) gets a signal (a ground as I recall) from the mechanical switch in the diff. The switch reacts to the 'bladder' expanding (not certain what that's called - maybe a diaphragm?)
You may want to look at the images from the FSM for testing to see how they relate to your results.Hi Folks! Not new to Jeeps but am new to the Rubicon trim. I just picked up a 2004 Rubicon with 111k miles and tested out the lockers. When engaged, the front locker works fine. The rear locker on the other hand would only flash. After some trouble shooting and reading other posts I traced it to a bad relay and replaced it. Now the locker blinks, changes to solid, and I can see the locker actuator shift position when engaged. However, when jacking up the rear and spinning the wheels they spin in opposite directions unlike when the front is locked. Additionally when putting the transmission into gear I can hold one wheel still while the other continues to move. All this makes me think the locker is not actually engaged but I’m at a loss for what next steps are and I’m concerned it means it’s something bigger wrong in the locker. Also when I opened the diff the fluid looked pretty old and there was build up on the plug and at the bottom of the diff. Any sage wisdom is greatly appreciated!
(Post #4 for images and Post #6 for more useful information)
I realize it's the opposite issue, but the testing is relevant.
Rear Locker Stuck Engaged
Hi all, I picked up a 2005 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon completely stock. The rear locker appears to be stuck in the locked position. The "rear axle lock" light is flashing, I was thinking it was something related to an air leak or pump. I identified an air leak to the rear locker and fixed...
www.rubiconownersforum.com
yea , I only remembered the (would only flash part)OP said blinks then changes to solid. That is not a pump or line failure.
If your transfer case sensor/switch is faulty, your indicators will lie to you. It happened to me off the trail and my friend on the trail. The hardware all worked, but not when it said it was. Sound confusing? It was! We had to high center his Rubi and run through all the positions. Everything worked but his indicators were everything but correct. Just keep it in mind. Id put it up on jacks and check the lockers even in wrong position. Your transfer case switch may be lying to your PCM.
Thanks. Unfortunately the tires spin in opposite directions whether the switch is on or off, leadin me to believe it is something wrong internally with the gears. Probably not the helical gears but maybe the cogged locker gears the actuator moves.If your transfer case sensor/switch is faulty, your indicators will lie to you. It happened to me off the trail and my friend on the trail. The hardware all worked, but not when it said it was. Sound confusing? It was! We had to high center his Rubi and run through all the positions. Everything worked but his indicators were everything but correct. Just keep it in mind. Id put it up on jacks and check the lockers even in wrong position. Your transfer case switch may be lying to your PCM.
Activate your locker switches in various transfer case positions and do your wheel examinations.
Silly question, did you change your diff fluid recently. The rear fill plug can interfere with the actuator if screwed too far in with the stock cover. I replaced all my air lines with gas line, it does not dry rot as easily.
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