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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
A friend gave me some old flat and channel steel. About that time I needed a challenge beyond doing practice beads. I was tired of my one stock recovery point and decided to make a rear bumper.

I learned….
Weld it right the first time.
It’s fairly easy to remove a section of weld.
I’m getting penetration.
I need corner practice.
I could see the puddle better with the sun almost down.
Loctite rust converter is outstanding.
Carbide Dremel bits are great at enlarging holes in steel. Thanks Fab Rats

I did cause some bending from allowing too much heat, but it actually worked in my favor causing a symmetrical tow in at each end.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I gave that some thought, but wasn’t sure how to line up everything. I’ll be putting a tether on the D ring until I see how things hold up. I became more at ease when I removed some of my welds.
 
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Excellent job Norm...to make the T-joint weld stronger where the shackle brackets are welded to the flat bumper face, you can bevel the edge of the bracket with a grinder which will create a stronger weld by providing more surface area for weld bead between the bracket and the flat bumper face...I could not tell if you did that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the advice and encouragement. They were Poison Spyder tabs that came nicely beveled. I used Genright frame tie ins and the PS tabs. I couldn’t pass up what they offered for the price.
 
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