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Discussion Starter #1
I'm preparing to install 4.88's along with new coils, RUCA's, drive shaft, skids, EBC pads, centric rotors, etc.

Since I'll already have the axles apart for the re-gear is it worth it to go ahead and replaced bearings or add axle seals? I've only got 67k miles on the Jeep but I tend to wheel it a lot and I've been through some 2-3ft deep long stream crossings.
 

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onikage954RR said:
is it worth it to go ahead and replaced bearings or add axle seals?

If you have not already, I would upgrade the front and rear shafts to a chromoly from TenFactory, AlloyUSA, Superior,etc. Since you have it apart, you might as well change the axle seals since they are only $3. Can not hurt any.
 

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gregert12 said:
If you have not already, I would upgrade the front and rear shafts to a chromoly from TenFactory, AlloyUSA, Superior,etc. Since you have it apart, you might as well change the axle seals since they are only $3. Can not hurt any.
x100.

I had mine in the shop for one thing, then thought "why not regear it too" which then led to "since it's apart, might as well do axles shafts as well"

Axle seals - A must do since you do water crossings and the like.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Shafts are too expensive for my budget right now. Sides, I'm only turning 33's and I have a light foot so I shouldn't need them....


right?
 

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desertfox1 said:
gregert12 said:
If you have not already, I would upgrade the front and rear shafts to a chromoly from TenFactory, AlloyUSA, Superior,etc. Since you have it apart, you might as well change the axle seals since they are only $3. Can not hurt any.
x100.

I had mine in the shop for one thing, then thought "why not regear it too" which then led to "since it's apart, might as well do axles shafts as well"

Axle seals - A must do since you do water crossings and the like.
X 1000
I know you said you are light on the throttle but they will let go at the most inconvenient time. If its all apart it is a perfect time to do. Also might want to consider the front ball joints........if you dont replace the shafts inspect the ujoints very carefuly as well as the rear bearings!
 

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Do you mean carrier bearings or wheel bearings?

I would change all the bearings in the differential that come with the master rebuild kit - change unit bearings when needed.

I don't know if my rusty stock axle shafts would seal up in one of those aftermarket front axle tube seals. (???)

I'd check that out when purchasing those tube seals if your not buying chromoly axle shafts... or maybe yours aren't rusty?
 

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Agree with Gregert. I assumed that $3 seal was either part of the rebuild kit or something replaced by the shop who did the work. No brainer at $3 each right. Not exactly! That $3 seal didn't get replaced as the shop who did my re-gear "didn't think I needed them"...ended up leaking like a sieve. I finally agreed to pay the shop $100 bucks but wasn't very happy about it.
 

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3rivers said:
Do you mean carrier bearings or wheel bearings?

I would change all the bearings in the differential that come with the master rebuild kit - change unit bearings when needed.

I don't know if my rusty stock axle shafts would seal up in one of those aftermarket front axle tube seals. (???)

I'd check that out when purchasing those tube seals if your not buying chromoly axle shafts... or maybe yours aren't rusty?
I was refering to the rear axle shaft bearings that are pressed on to the shafts. Look for wear/play in each.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the advice guys. I'll see if maybe I can't swing the shafts. My Jeep will be paid off this month so this round of mods will be light.

Of course if I get the chromoly shafts it'll be that much more tempting to get Metalcloak fenders and 37's...
 

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onikage954RR said:
Thanks for the advice guys. I'll see if maybe I can't swing the shafts. My Jeep will be paid off this month so this round of mods will be light.

Of course if I get the chromoly shafts it'll be that much more tempting to get Metalcloak fenders and 37's...

Worse comes to worse... if you can upgrade the rears at least. YES the fronts tend to be weaker due to the u joint binding. But the rears are usually cheaper thus fitting in your budget better and the install of them can be done at the same time. They will require a press for the axle bearing (since your probably going to replace it) and that is the only hard part of the install since most of us dont have a press.

The fronts are super simple to replace when the time comes.
 

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onikage954RR said:
http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddetail ... AXLE_GEARS

Is this the kit you're all recommending? If so, I suppose I could start selling blood and maybe turn a few tricks to get the cash :wink:

tough I know! but it does save you in the long run. and I think David will press on the axle bearings before shipping it also if you ask.
 

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onikage954RR said:
Thanks for the advice guys. I'll see if maybe I can't swing the shafts. My Jeep will be paid off this month so this round of mods will be light.

Of course if I get the chromoly shafts it'll be that much more tempting to get Metalcloak fenders and 37's...
Not to scare you away from 37s but if axle shafts don't fit into your budget, it's about to get a lot more expensive going to 37s. You might say you're easy on the skinny pedal...but do a search..there are many highly debated threads on this topic. 37s usually = $$$$$
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I suppose I need to update my sig. 35's-37's are no longer my goal. My Jeep (after this set of mods) will be done on 33's. I find that I can run most all the trains around here just fine and the cost of going bigger is too much for now. I don't mind scraping a bit (got a Savvy gas skid and UCF tummy tuck going on) and I like to pick smart but challenging lines.

37's are just a fantasy.
 

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Replace the axle seals when you have the gears done. The front seals can only be replaced with the differential removed. The rear seals will require new axle bearings and retainers since you will destroy them to replace the seals. You will also need new axle retainer bolts and nuts for the rear, they are one use only and you will need to pull the axles to do the gears.

-Andrew
 
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