the nut could have had a bad spot in the thread that tore up the axle threads. normally if things are stressing threads in a nut then it's all the threads the nut is contacting and not just part of them. always make sure the threads are clean on the nut and the bolt (axle in this case) before making the connection. any machinist can tell you that it doesn't take much contaminants to lock parts together forcing you to destroy them to get them apart.
RCV axle issue
I blew a front driver's side bearing the other day and proceeded to install a new one yesterday. I run RCV axles and this was going to be the first time I would be doing any maintenance work involving the axles since installing them in June.
I am figuring an hour to do the job. No biggie...right.
Well that time frame went out the window as soon as I removed the axle locking nut. In doing so all the threads in the locking nut were screwed and the threads on the axle were pretty much the same but only the leading half of the threads. The inner half of the threads, which would include about half of the nut's depth, were intact. By the inner or outer half I am referring only to the threads that the nut would cover and not all the threads on the inner axle. This renders the job at a stand still. I can assure you that the nut was not put on cross threaded. The damage appeared to be caused during the last several turns of the locking nut when first installed and by the nut's locking design.
Has anyone experienced this same issue?
I will be talking to RCV on Monday and would like to understand my position more clearly if there are more wide spread occurrences.
I don't have any pictures to assist in the understanding...I have already taken it to a machine shop and I didn't have a camera available at the time.
I am figuring an hour to do the job. No biggie...right.
Well that time frame went out the window as soon as I removed the axle locking nut. In doing so all the threads in the locking nut were screwed and the threads on the axle were pretty much the same but only the leading half of the threads. The inner half of the threads, which would include about half of the nut's depth, were intact. By the inner or outer half I am referring only to the threads that the nut would cover and not all the threads on the inner axle. This renders the job at a stand still. I can assure you that the nut was not put on cross threaded. The damage appeared to be caused during the last several turns of the locking nut when first installed and by the nut's locking design.
Has anyone experienced this same issue?
I will be talking to RCV on Monday and would like to understand my position more clearly if there are more wide spread occurrences.
I don't have any pictures to assist in the understanding...I have already taken it to a machine shop and I didn't have a camera available at the time.
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
I actually did NOT use the nuts supplied with my RCVs. The "lock" on them was bent in so bad that they were eating the threads when i tried to install them. I just used the stock nuts. I also check them on a regular basis to make sure they are not coming loose. I would contact RCV and see if they will help you out. Perhaps you could re-thread the stub to the next size down?
I have a friend in our club that had the same issue. He had several issues, but the problem you are having was one of them (the last issue, pg2.) I beleive he ditched the supplied nut, cleaned the threads, and then used antisieze.time2split said:I blew a front driver's side bearing the other day and proceeded to install a new one yesterday. I run RCV axles and this was going to be the first time I would be doing any maintenance work involving the axles since installing them in June.
I am figuring an hour to do the job. No biggie...right.
Well that time frame went out the window as soon as I removed the axle locking nut. In doing so all the threads in the locking nut were screwed and the threads on the axle were pretty much the same but only the leading half of the threads. The inner half of the threads, which would include about half of the nut's depth, were intact. By the inner or outer half I am referring only to the threads that the nut would cover and not all the threads on the inner axle. This renders the job at a stand still. I can assure you that the nut was not put on cross threaded. The damage appeared to be caused during the last several turns of the locking nut when first installed and by the nut's locking design.
Has anyone experienced this same issue?
I will be talking to RCV on Monday and would like to understand my position more clearly if there are more wide spread occurrences.
I don't have any pictures to assist in the understanding...I have already taken it to a machine shop and I didn't have a camera available at the time.
In any event, and as his experience will show... call them! Their customer service is very good!
Got me nervous about my RCV's now...
Ordered them direct from Bobby Long though, and his customer service has been EXCELLENT so far to say the least! Hope you get the same treatment!
Ordered them direct from Bobby Long though, and his customer service has been EXCELLENT so far to say the least! Hope you get the same treatment!
Gustapo said:Got me nervous about my RCV's now...
Ordered them direct from Bobby Long though, and his customer service has been EXCELLENT so far to say the least! Hope you get the same treatment!
Is Bobby still selling these? I had heard he lost them to RCV. Bobby is a local boy (in WA state anyway) and I'd MUCH prefer he get the business than RCV any day of the week and twice on Sundays... Good to know he's selling again. You're right, his customer service IS excellent.
Best of Luck,
Mike
Just ordered mine from him about three months ago. Great service, free shipping and free outer axle seals! Would buy through him again any time!
*Edit: Just went to longfieldsuperaxles.com and see that the Jeep rubicon axles are on a "clearance" sale... Guess he is moving away from them...
Sorry for the threadjack...
I'd like to know how this turns out for you though!
*Edit: Just went to longfieldsuperaxles.com and see that the Jeep rubicon axles are on a "clearance" sale... Guess he is moving away from them...
Sorry for the threadjack...
I'd like to know how this turns out for you though!
I haven't talked with RCV yet. I am waiting until I get the axle back from the machine shop and I have cooled down a little further over this :bs: Will post the results of this dilemma and RCV's response.
I have removed mine several times now. new unit ball joints, then new unit bearings, ect. The threads are still in great shape and show no signs of wear. Is it possible you cross threaded it?
I doubt it. I believe the jam nuts they are using are just not right. The "dent" in the nut was deep enough and the nut itself was stong enough to kill the shaft threads. So, I think this is something they need to look into.whooda said:I have removed mine several times now. new unit ball joints, then new unit bearings, ect. The threads are still in great shape and show no signs of wear. Is it possible you cross threaded it?
Install with with the factory nuts w/ a little medium locktight and forget about themGustapo said:Just ordered mine from him about three months ago. Great service, free shipping and free outer axle seals! Would buy through him again any time!
*Edit: Just went to longfieldsuperaxles.com and see that the Jeep rubicon axles are on a "clearance" sale... Guess he is moving away from them...
Sorry for the threadjack...
I'd like to know how this turns out for you though!
Sorry it took so long to get to the source of this issue and post this update. First, this was my tardiness not RCV's or the machine shop. I have just finished talking with RCV about my dilemma and they acknowledges that there were some issues with regards to the jam nut destroying the threads. They have implemented a change to the nut system already and they are sending me new ends. There was no balking on their behalf...only cooperation and apologies. You can't ask for any more. So for anyone thinking about these axles but were being cautious after reading this or other threads on this issue open your wallet, These axles are worth every penny.
i had the same problem. i had to cut the nuts off with a torch. the manufacture took care of it right away by shipping me new axles. if you bought these axles make sure they tightened properly. the original style nuts damaged the threads. mine seemed to tighten up, but what really happened was the threads got damaged and left 1/16" to 1/8" play and would have damaged my new hub bearings. its not easy to see the play and it feels ok, but it wasnt. the new shafts have a keyway cut into the threaded portion and a nut that you crimp down once fulled tightened.
i have them on my rubi that is a daily driver with 35" tires. they are working great and i would recommend them to anybody. much better than any U-joint style axles.
i have them on my rubi that is a daily driver with 35" tires. they are working great and i would recommend them to anybody. much better than any U-joint style axles.
What kind of nuts do they use now?
At this point I don't know exactly how they have dealt with the issue. I haven't received my replacement parts yet. On the damaged one I had rebuilt I am using a NyLock nut. It seams to be working so far. How it would stand up over the long term both on and off road I am not sure but I would imagine just fine. I will post what RCV's solution is when I receive the axles.whooda said:What kind of nuts do they use now?
I "machined" my own recess with a cutoff wheel. I found the nut with the lip that you put the detent in, it's sourced from some Subarus and Hondas. Had to hit up the local JD tractor dealer for a washer though, I could not find the right nut with a large enough integrated washer/flange.
If anyone wants the part number I have it out in the garage, it's a Dorman part # I got from Napa....always good to have local spares.
Edit: Here's the part numbers for washers and nuts....
Nut: Dorman 05121
Washer: John Deere 24M7253
The washer is a perfect fit for the hub and outer stub.
If anyone wants the part number I have it out in the garage, it's a Dorman part # I got from Napa....always good to have local spares.
Edit: Here's the part numbers for washers and nuts....
Nut: Dorman 05121
Washer: John Deere 24M7253
The washer is a perfect fit for the hub and outer stub.
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
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