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Discussion Starter #1
I am going to do the Dodge Durango 160 amp alternator swap today, but I have two questions. One, should I put a 200 amp fuse between the battery and alt? Two, is 4 gauge wire big enough? Should I go bigger? Thanks!
 

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you dont need a fuse and 4 will be fine
 

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Thanks for the reply. Just finished up the job. Ton anyone wondering, this is a VERY simple and easy job to do. Anyone with basic tools can accomplish this!
 

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any '04 V8 durango works for my '03 Rubi. There is an additional mounting bracket on the Durango alt. that looks like it might interfere with the removal of the coil rail. It's close but, I can remove my rail. Others have ground it off. And yes, the parts stores do not care what you turn in as a core. I just kept mine as a spare. No belt change is needed. Pretty much plug-n-play.


 

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I will add this about upgrading the alt. Watch it closely, I did a upgrade on my Zr2 with a different one from a fullsize chevy(145 amp) and within about 2weeks it died. I mean by that it still worked but voltage went from 14.3 back to 13.6? the stocker was always running at around 13.6 I had noway to check the amp output so I couldnt verify that. I am thinking the alt took a crap or something inside of it did. It was a brand new not rebuilt.

I do want to upgrade mine now but since last zr2 Im kindof holding back. That alt set me back 220bucks. Which Im sure this one will too.
 

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Any news about a new belt? Or will the stock one work? Also, how much and where you buy? I know just about anywhere I could get.
 

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Chris04 said:
Any news about a new belt? Or will the stock one work? Also, how much and where you buy? I know just about anywhere I could get.
Again, it is plug and play. Nothing else needs to be changed. Larger gauge wiring is recommended but, I am still fine over a year later and I use a Warn 8274 winch. $120.99 at Advance Auto. Worldwide Alternator Part No. 12328! Reman; with Nippondenso Alt; 160 Amps.
 

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Maxxram said:
I just did the swap the other day. Took all of 15min to swap them out. Everything is truly plug and play.............
Whew, thanks! I hope it sinks in this time. :roll:
 

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I did this about 6 months ago. Like has been said before, plug and play, 15 minutes or so(I think I had to go to the bathroom when I did mine or something), you may or may not have to cut off the arm(probably not), the belt fits fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I used an alternator from an 02 Durango. Same belt, upgraded wire to the battery (4ga), and did not hack off that extra bracket. Easy, easy, easy! Most time consuming thing for me was getting the bottom bolt to feed into the nut, after getting the top bolt started. Well worth it if you have ANY extra electrical crap on your TJ.
 

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A couple of comments on this change.

First, the stock TJ alternator has 134 ampere capacity, and IMHO a 160 ampere capacity is not enough of an upgrade to justify the effort or expense, unless you need to replace the alternator because it failed. In that case, this is a cheap upgrade - there is only a few bucks difference in cost.

Secondly, the green-insulated alternator main wire directly attached to the alternator stud is a 10-gauge fusible link, and it is crimped to the red 6-gauge that goes to the battery. You should not upgrade alternator capacity without also upgrading this link and replacing the 6-gauge cable all the way to the battery with a 4-gauge cable. The correct size of link for a 4-gauge main alternator wire is a 8-gauge fusible link. Let me remind you that a) fusible links are always 4 AWG sizes smaller than the circuit being protected b) fusible links are special "low melting point" alloys and c) fusible links are encased in high temperature insulation. In case you cannot find an 8-gauge link, or do not have the proper crimper or crimp connectors, I would replace it with a heavy duty ANL fuse block:
...and a 175 ampere slow-acting or 200 ampere fast-acting ANL fuse. Put insulating boots over those 5/16" studs on the fuse block.
 

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KaiserJeep said:
...First, the stock TJ alternator has 134 ampere capacity...
Funny, my window sticker from my 2003 says 117A...

:wink:
 

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So will this work if you are running the Kilby OBA bracket??? I agree that its not worth it in my oppinion unless the stock unit has already failed, but def worth it if it has. I will keep this in mind for the future.
 

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gregert12 said:
tag.




doodoob said:
So will this work if you are running the Kilby OBA bracket???
are the dimensions of the unit similar?
Not sure about the exact dimensions.........but if the ear is longer it might be an issue.
 
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