you dont need a fuse and 4 will be fine
Question with Alternator Swap
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any '04 V8 durango works for my '03 Rubi. There is an additional mounting bracket on the Durango alt. that looks like it might interfere with the removal of the coil rail. It's close but, I can remove my rail. Others have ground it off. And yes, the parts stores do not care what you turn in as a core. I just kept mine as a spare. No belt change is needed. Pretty much plug-n-play.
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A couple of comments on this change.
First, the stock TJ alternator has 134 ampere capacity, and IMHO a 160 ampere capacity is not enough of an upgrade to justify the effort or expense, unless you need to replace the alternator because it failed. In that case, this is a cheap upgrade - there is only a few bucks difference in cost.
Secondly, the green-insulated alternator main wire directly attached to the alternator stud is a 10-gauge fusible link, and it is crimped to the red 6-gauge that goes to the battery. You should not upgrade alternator capacity without also upgrading this link and replacing the 6-gauge cable all the way to the battery with a 4-gauge cable. The correct size of link for a 4-gauge main alternator wire is a 8-gauge fusible link. Let me remind you that a) fusible links are always 4 AWG sizes smaller than the circuit being protected b) fusible links are special "low melting point" alloys and c) fusible links are encased in high temperature insulation. In case you cannot find an 8-gauge link, or do not have the proper crimper or crimp connectors, I would replace it with a heavy duty ANL fuse block:
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...and a 175 ampere slow-acting or 200 ampere fast-acting ANL fuse. Put insulating boots over those 5/16" studs on the fuse block.
First, the stock TJ alternator has 134 ampere capacity, and IMHO a 160 ampere capacity is not enough of an upgrade to justify the effort or expense, unless you need to replace the alternator because it failed. In that case, this is a cheap upgrade - there is only a few bucks difference in cost.
Secondly, the green-insulated alternator main wire directly attached to the alternator stud is a 10-gauge fusible link, and it is crimped to the red 6-gauge that goes to the battery. You should not upgrade alternator capacity without also upgrading this link and replacing the 6-gauge cable all the way to the battery with a 4-gauge cable. The correct size of link for a 4-gauge main alternator wire is a 8-gauge fusible link. Let me remind you that a) fusible links are always 4 AWG sizes smaller than the circuit being protected b) fusible links are special "low melting point" alloys and c) fusible links are encased in high temperature insulation. In case you cannot find an 8-gauge link, or do not have the proper crimper or crimp connectors, I would replace it with a heavy duty ANL fuse block:
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