Phillip has some great advice. I'll add that with the anti-rocks setup properly they will not limit your travel in the least. Your projected build is almost identical to what I have currently and am working towards. I have been wanting the rear outboard for years now but in the beginning, was worried about my towing and the strength of the outboard mod. I've talked with Blaine a lot about this and am no longer worried. I WILL be doing this soon. In addition, front will get redone as well, with 3-link up there. That will be a while due to current extenuating circumstances unfortunately.
Relative to your build now, I do run front/rear bars. I actually have the dual-rate swayloc up front with the rear anti-rock. Without unhooking swaybars OR shocks, I could actually drop any corner and remove any one of my 3" AEV springs without issue. I run the Rancho 9000 adjustables that are built for the 4" lift. I THINK they're 10" fronts and 8" rears currently??? My suspension plans call for 12" travel split 50/50 meaning 6" up and 6" down with the outboard. It will be a bit of work to get that, but it will be well worth it.
You mention the possibility of high-lining your fenders for 35's with this setup. I will say YES, you will need to do something. I currently run 255/85's which are a true 33" tire. With my current setup now, I can stuff the tire without rubbing, BUT I'm VERY close-meaning less than 1/4" clearance at the fender. I actually had a couple screws on my inner fender that I somehow didn't think I'd hit, and actually sliced the tread blocks and broke the screw off at the fender. Actually the tire bent it flat to the fender, then I broke it off with pliars prior to removing that item from under the hood and eliminating the screws all together. Somehow I didn't check that spot close enough I guess. Live and learn. Point being, these are with 33's and front swayloc-and no, my shocks are not bottoming-but I am bumpstopped more than I'd really like to be. If I raise my front mount a hair and eliminate a little bumpstop, I'd be in the fender for sure. So, with that, I will say YES, you'll want some form of high-line setup to clear 35's for sure. I have a plan for this as well that will happen very soon I hope.
Depending on which TT setup you go with, may want to start there and get that done. It MAY effect placement of your upper link mounts on the frame depending on what you do with the rear-and front for that matter depending on what engine skid you run, and allow you to see where everything else fits when you setup the link mounts and cycle for clearance. That's not worded very well-hopefully you get the point.
With the rear anti-rock, you can do a couple things. If you set it up FIRST using a 44" bar with 20" bent arms, you can then use the arms to determine exactly how far you need to french into the frame for the outboard and see what needs to be done to clear the shocks inside the arm to make them fit. Like I said, I'm not at this point YET but am told by a very good source that it will work, just will be very tight. I've been running my rear anti-rock for years now and plan to do this soon with the outboard, using them as a guide to see just how far and how tight everything will be. The other option is to mount your shocks first where you want them, then fit the rear anti-rock in front of the axle, arms pointing back to the back of the Jeep and not worry about clearance at the outboard mod. Your choice. I've seen it both ways. Again, fitment of the TT first will help give clearance suggestions later as to what will fit where.
Are the springs/BL on currently now? If not, I'd do those first, followed by the TT/engine skid setup. You'll be at your basic lift height and have a good idea of stance before you start cutting. Swayloc can be done/installed now as well-just be sure to leave the links long for now till the rest of the arms/shocks are done and you know how much down travel you get so you avoid cutting the links too short. The BL will give a hair more clearance for when you drop the tank to do the rear outboard. You'll appreciate the little extra room. Go with the extended poly rear outboard kit-then cut down as needed for your desired shock height. Are you a TJ or LJ? If you're an LJ-the rear has PLENTY of room for the rear anti-rock and will be easy to install there. If a TJ, and you go behind the tank in the back, you'll have to run it without the outter DOM bar as there isn't enough clearance for that. Just use the tube to cut the mounts for the bushings-cut to size of course, then run the bar through on it's own. Tight, but it will fit.
Lots to think about and plan for. Will be a great handling/performing rig when you're done. Be sure to take lots of pics and post up here when you're done!!!
You'll likely be done with your entire rig before I can start my 3-link so I'm itching to see how it goes for you! :lildevil:
Best of Luck,