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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, I've had some free time and I've made some progress on Rubi Cool. It has been argued that excessive cooling is possibly counter productive. My feeling is that in southern california, in the summer time and on a Rubicon that (in the future) will be turning 35's, fully loaded on aggressive climbs occasionally; this set up will not be excessive. I will report back once its in on my feelings regarding my choices for cooling. I'm still early in the install and it is not complete.

In short it has been difficult because bascially I feel like I'm stuffing 6 lbs in a 5 lb bag. The greatest difficulty is getting an elbow right out of the cooler so that nothing hangs below the lower edge of the bumper. It is a metric 22mm x 1.5 thread and there is little available to convert from metric to something compatible with plumbing similar to Earls performance products. I've had to drill an tap one of the setrab cooler fittings to a 3/8 NPT thread and install a Earls elbow...all is good.



Rough lay out of coolers


How the ARB is cleared out and placement of the SETRAB fan driven cooler


Home fab of shield and louvers cut at your local hot rod shop


Shield in place w/ radiator in ARB on rubber isolators and line holes cut into ARB


Routing of oil lines


Wide angle of both coolers in place
 

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interesting concept...
looking for more info how well the coolers work..
:wink:
 

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hmm....Looks interesting...but I have to ask the question....Why? It gets pretty hot here in NC and between tellico, Uwarrie and all the areas I have never seen this setup..It looks pretty complex...dose the water thats going to splash up hurt those vents.....what about maintence procedures...is it differnt? I saw you cut the ARB as well..I have an ARB and love it...will it weaken the bumper where you cut it? Just a few questions to get the thread going.
Pete
PS..I like your ruby...scratch black just like mine!!lol..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, all good questions that I have no answer for.

Why? Prior problems with overheating (not the rubicon though). And preventative hopefully.

Most of the cutting was for the currie anti-rock and I have posted in the wrangler forum in JU regarding this before doing it. I was reassured by others who have done it that strength is not compromised. As far as the routing of the lines, the ARB is complex itself in its build and there is very little connection from the winch plate to the bumper frame directly and after looking at it I feel that strength is not compromised...but I do have the same concern you have mentioned and I'll keep an eye on it.

I also plan on pulling something like the following: http://www.tentrax.com/allTerrainTrailer.html

Water splash is exactly why the vents were placed....to keep crap out of the cooling veins. I will have an in cab switch to manually switch off the fans for deep water crossings.

Maintenance; I've had a similar set up and there was no additional maintenance....just a larger capacity of oil....which is a good thing.

My major concern was creating an achilles heel with hanging plumbing at the lower edge of the bumper. That has been the biggest pain to figure out. I now have it so nothing hangs lower than the edge of the bumper and the cooler is sitting in rubber isolators. In effect the fan is free to move in a limited sense so that should they hit something they (hopefull) won't rip out of their mounts.
 

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I had a '67 firebird (burning chicken) i used to drag race in high school. I did a simalr mod for the fuel, to keep it cool worked like a charm!! Good luck and let us know how it turns out..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
A few more pics....

Tap the setrab adaptor (cut off the AN nipple and tap to 3/8 NPT to use an elbow. This is done for clearance reasons. Now nothing will hang below the lower edge of the bumper.


Mounting of engine oil filter and auto tranny oil filter. The FRAM is the tranny filter. The other is the Canton Racing remote adaptor used with the remote filter mount. Very high quality stuff.
http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/ada ... ilter.html



Wires and hoses... Each fan is wired to a relay and activated by a inline thermostat (derale product). Derale is moderate quality stuff.
http://www.derale.com/transcooleraccess.shtml


Wheel well view of cooler.


Its not completely done, but its getting close and has a fairly stock appearance (what I was going for).


On a side note, I also installed the kilby dual battery tray. A very nice piece of equipment.
 

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THis is a very interesting modification... You have done some good reasearch and the install looks awesome... Now how to do it if you don't have an ARB bumper.. The stock bumper could never be used in this set up.

I like it Ned .... Good work. 8)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
petesjeeprubi said:
No Bumper flashers?
Pete
That is part of the "not done yet" list. :?


And as far as bumpers to do this mod with, I considered the Trail Ready (which I don't think would work after doing this) and ARB. I am using the currie antirock to move the roll bar to give you space for the filters (besides the fact that I want to run the anti rock).
 
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Ned, looks awesome. The fan install is great. I'm going to keep this in mind if I get the ARB bumper. (I still haven't decided yet!)

Ron
 

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Ned-

Thats damn impressive. I have never seen anyone undertake something like that ....good for you! Anxious to see how it works. Are you planning on installing temp gauges so you can see what difference it has, etc?
 

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Ned:

A totally awesome job. Much more than I would ever try to undertake. Let us know how it runs and what the temp differences are.

Jerry
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Okay,
I'm embarrased to say it......but the dreaded check engine light has come on and has been on. When I installed the kilby tray, the battery temp sensor came unplugged and I reconnected that tonight....check engine light is still glowing.

I've gone to the manual and if I understand it there really isn't a engine temp trip other than less than 160 degrees (which it hasn't run at)....engine oil has been around 200 degrees.

On initial fire up, the engine failed to start (sputtered and stopped) then I started it again.

It sounds fine, it seems to drive fine and temp on the dash reads about 210 (normal position on gauge).......ideas?????

Questions I have for the board here:

Is there a diagnostic mode in the Jeep (like flashing light sequence) to give me a better idea as to what the problem is?

Is there a way to clear the light to see if it was related to the original misfire/ stall? ie to see if it is repeatable?



I hate posting about failures......but I thought I'd be honest and not mislead anybody.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update: engine light is gone. Based on the list of codes, I think it was due to the battery temp sensor being disconnected.

I came across this site which was very helpful to figure out how to get your rubicon into diagnostic mode without a scan tool. I had no codes listed (!) which leads me to believe it was simply the disconnected sensor.

http://www.webejeepin.com/Check-Engine.htm

By the way, the only temp related code in the list that I saw was this one: "Engine does not reach 20ºF within 5 minutes" ---> which is not a problem with rubi cool.

For better or for worse, I'll keep the updates coming! (....now I can sleep! :D )
 

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Ned said:
I hate posting about failures......but I thought I'd be honest and not mislead anybody.
Ned:

Don't ever concern yourself over posting mistakes or problems. There's a lot of bright folks on the forum who will be glad to help you out.

I can't speak for everyone, but I've always learned more from my failures than my successes. :D

Keep up the good work. Glad you took care of that code. That is a great mod you've made.

Jerry
 

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Great job Ned. Very impressed. Now to get that beast in to the air :D
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I know, I know.....


Its actually sitting about a 1/2 inch lower now too. :roll:

I'm thinking about 35's RELA AiRock.....

But that is a tall order ($).......I had to do a lot of talking to get the bumper and winch past the spending committee. :D
 
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Ned said:
I had to do a lot of talking to get the bumper and winch past the spending committee. :D
Ahhh the good old spending committee. I'm working on my skid plate purchase right now. Not going very well. The miscellaneous holes in my yard that I call landscaping projects got pointed to.

Ron..
 

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PBR Stitch said:
Ned said:
I had to do a lot of talking to get the bumper and winch past the spending committee. :D
Ahhh the good old spending committee. I'm working on my skid plate purchase right now. Not going very well. The miscellaneous holes in my yard that I call landscaping projects got pointed to.

Ron..
I agree the Damn Spending Comittee.. I have one at work and I have an even tighter one at home.... :wink:

That is why stuff just happens to appear at the door...Opps.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
As I find stuff, I'll post what I've found. I have the home depot hose clamps on now (for the auto tranny line) but I'd like higher performance clamps. I've taken the time to put this project together...I'd like it to stay that way for a long time!

Here is a great site with every quality of clamp you could imagine....even military grade. Just search for hose clamps.

http://www.mcmaster.com/
 
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