Rubicon Owners Forum banner

21 - 28 of 28 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,104 Posts
I've torn down and repaired at least 40 of those OPDA assemblys. I am no engineer by any means, but a steel shaft running in a steel unlubricated bushing just ain't right. The design was a joke. The simple distributor drive that's been around for many decades seemed to work just fine. Why they changed it to this idiot thing is beyond my pay grade.
The Crown is a "Old School" type design in that it has bronze bushings. But regardless of miles you want to check the gears. I've seen units with 10K miles on them with shot pinion gears. I was sent one unit that had a lot of miles on it and the gear looked good. Once the Dorman and later the crown came out I quit fixing them. I have the crown and a dorman spare. The LJ is my kids now. I drive a JKU.

I think a factory replacement that would work was never developed cause they quit building that engine. And in 2009 FCA took over and they never built a TJ Jeep or 4.0 engine ever. No interest.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
There is a recall. RC E05-05 pertains to vehicle built between Oct 20 2004 to Feb 1 2005. The recall involves inspecting the build date of the distributor and if suspect replacing the gear on the drive, If it came in failed at the time Jeep would have replaced the camshaft.
Recalls are for the life of the vehicle but the if the manufactures have given the consumer enough notifications then they can reject a claim.
Google the recall and see if it applies. Contact your dealer to see if it is still outstanding for your Jeep. It may have been done already.
I would be interested in the outcome.
I went to the dealer and also spent an hour on the phone with the recall center, neither are interested at all in any solution, i even offered to do the work myself if i got the parts, couldnt even get a discount on parts.. they just kept citing that the jeep was 14 years old and that it was "inspected" when it was a year old... of course it looked good when it was a year old an had 10k kms on it but nothing was replaced or done just "inspected" i gave up jeeps running for now but isnt exactly optimal, might just need a "relearn" to get it in the right timing to compensate for worn parts


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,104 Posts
I went to the dealer and also spent an hour on the phone with the recall center, neither are interested at all in any solution, i even offered to do the work myself if i got the parts, couldnt even get a discount on parts.. they just kept citing that the jeep was 14 years old and that it was "inspected" when it was a year old... of course it looked good when it was a year old an had 10k kms on it but nothing was replaced or done just "inspected" i gave up jeeps running for now but isnt exactly optimal, might just need a "relearn" to get it in the right timing to compensate for worn parts


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Actually wasn't a recall, it was a TSB, Tech Service Bulletin.
The current "Chrysler" called FCA had nothing to do with this vehicle. They never built one! And even if they did the old Chrysler and certainly FCA never came up with a viable replacement part. Back in the day, if the Jeep was still on warranty they honored that. I think quite a few people lost engines over this OPDA going south. Cam gear would get damaged and metal would get all over in the engine resulting in major failures. But they'd just put the same crap back in. They never built a replacement. This pertains to the '05-'06 Jeeps.
On a side note-------This pertains to all 4.0 engines. Don't put just any oil in these 4.0 engines. Back years ago factories started building engines with more modern valve trains. Roller rockers, roller lifters etc. Much less friction. The oil companies followed suit and started making oil with less zinc. Less pollution. Lots of these dinosaur 4.0 engines have died due to cam lobes going bad etc from not having proper oil. The 4.0 was the last old style engine sold I think. Only use oil in these 4.0's with a good dose of zinc. Most all the High Mileage oils are good. And make sure you are filling up with good detergent gasoline. Gunk on valve stems add a lot of load on the valve train. You don't want that. Buy good gas.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,104 Posts
i gave up jeeps running for now but isnt exactly optimal, might just need a "relearn" to get it in the right timing to compensate for worn parts


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Only use the factory recommendation for timing the OPDA. It is actually pretty simple.
Here is a You tube video showing how to properly remove the unit so it's indexed correctly.
Now to properly time the replacement unit you will need to set the engine to TDC. The mark is hard to see with the belt of so I just remove the belt.
So if you remove the old one the best way is to set the engine to true TDC, once you got the TDC marks lined up look in the unit to see if the holes are close. If the holes are way off you need to turn the engine over again as its 180 degrees off. Now you got true TDC and the holes should be close. Pull the old one out, put the new one in and recheck your TDC lines to make sure nothing moved. Then once the OPDA is in close you can rotate the body to get it exact. Tighten the bolt. If it is or has thrown a code disconnect the battery for 15 minutes or so.

BTW, everytime you pull one of these out take a flashlight and closly examine the cam gear. I've seen some of these with massive wear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
528 Posts
Bob, it may not apply to your Jeep but it was a recall, I did several of them. I did a quick google search. RC-E05-05

The oil pump drive gear on about 16,000 of the above vehicles may wear out
prematurely and cause engine failure due to a loss of oil pressure.
The camshaft position sensor/oil pump drive assembly date code label must be
inspected. Units within a specific date code range must have the drive gear replaced.
All unsold vehicles must have the oil pump drive gear replaced prior to retail
delivery to eliminate the risk of engine failure due to premature oil pump drive
gear wear.
On sold vehicles, the cam/crank angle must also be checked with the
DRB III scan tool. Engines found with excessive cam/crank angle must have the oil
pump drive gear and the engine camshaft replaced.

Now recalls are a funny thing. If it was inspected and found acceptable then the manufacture is done with it. Some recalls are for life and some are just until repaired.
Although FCA or whatever the new name is (CitroenJeep?) has changed hands they are still responsible for their recalls. If the government had actually let them go bankrupt it would be different but they were bailed out and sold so they are not off the hook.
If FCA has notified you an acceptable amount then they will try to get out of a repair but I doubt this would hold up in court, if you had the money to fight it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,104 Posts
Bob, it may not apply to your Jeep but it was a recall, I did several of them. I did a quick google search. RC-E05-05

The oil pump drive gear on about 16,000 of the above vehicles may wear out
prematurely and cause engine failure due to a loss of oil pressure.
The camshaft position sensor/oil pump drive assembly date code label must be
inspected. Units within a specific date code range must have the drive gear replaced.
All unsold vehicles must have the oil pump drive gear replaced prior to retail
delivery to eliminate the risk of engine failure due to premature oil pump drive
gear wear.
On sold vehicles, the cam/crank angle must also be checked with the
DRB III scan tool. Engines found with excessive cam/crank angle must have the oil
pump drive gear and the engine camshaft replaced.

Now recalls are a funny thing. If it was inspected and found acceptable then the manufacture is done with it. Some recalls are for life and some are just until repaired.
Although FCA or whatever the new name is (CitroenJeep?) has changed hands they are still responsible for their recalls. If the government had actually let them go bankrupt it would be different but they were bailed out and sold so they are not off the hook.
If FCA has notified you an acceptable amount then they will try to get out of a repair but I doubt this would hold up in court, if you had the money to fight it.

I agree. But I doubt you'll have much luck fighting Fiat. If my engine failed due to this I'd rebuild it myself using a new after market cam with harder steel on the lobes. I'd use a higher volume oil pump. I'd use a crown OPDA. And if I had the money I'd use roller tappets on it. Of course my son now has the LJ, so it'll be his problem which, being a great dad, I'd fix.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Only use the factory recommendation for timing the OPDA. It is actually pretty simple.
Here is a You tube video showing how to properly remove the unit so it's indexed correctly.
Now to properly time the replacement unit you will need to set the engine to TDC. The mark is hard to see with the belt of so I just remove the belt.
So if you remove the old one the best way is to set the engine to true TDC, once you got the TDC marks lined up look in the unit to see if the holes are close. If the holes are way off you need to turn the engine over again as its 180 degrees off. Now you got true TDC and the holes should be close. Pull the old one out, put the new one in and recheck your TDC lines to make sure nothing moved. Then once the OPDA is in close you can rotate the body to get it exact. Tighten the bolt. If it is or has thrown a code disconnect the battery for 15 minutes or so.

BTW, everytime you pull one of these out take a flashlight and closly examine the cam gear. I've seen some of these with massive wear.
Yeah i went through the procedure a couple times actually, going to tdc and then clocking and lining up the opda holes, theres only 13 teeth on the gear so its easy to be om the right gear timing wise but the opda housing can be clocked with the hold down fork in infinetly small increments and you could use that clocking to adjust out any wear on the cam gear theoretically, theres just no way to know where to time it to without some kind of feedback, its lined up with the holes as close as i can get them but theres slop for it to be turned a couple degrees forward or back


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
21 - 28 of 28 Posts
Top