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Most often bliws ok, but sometimes the dash air blows noticably weakly. Change the switch from recirculate, to other positions, and one can hear the ducting change and the air redirects as it should. Shut off the engine, restart - still no joy. Run the fan speed up and down, air flow changes but is still weak.

Then the next time its driven and all is ok - blows strongly.

Anyone encounter this? Suggestions?
 

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Only thing I can think of is look in the FSM and run the wiring down. Could be the blower motor itself I suppose. One thing you can try is to remove that plate (forgot what it's called) between the hood and windshield and take off the plastic plenum to expose the motor and squirrel cage wheel. Make sure the squirrel cage is free to rotate.
 

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Is the blower changing speed or just the volume, if volume maybe a mouse nest or wasp nest. Leaves?

I had a very industrious mouse move all of my rat poison from the top of my cabinet to inside the breather on my Grizzly 700, he ran out if mojo at some point, but still had the entire bottom covered in green pellets, took me 30 seconds on staring in preponderance to figure out what was in my breather box. Then minutes to marvel at the efforts.

I have not looked at this, but maybe consider sticking a shop vac up to it and see what you can get out?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Blower stays same speed - volume drops.
 

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I have the same issue but it is rare and it mostly appears when I have been driving (more like idling) all day thru the National Forest roads. I have swapped the hvac control panel and it did not fix the issue.

The last time if happened it lasted a few weeks (rubi is not my dd) but I disconnected the vacuum connector behind the glove box, could hear the air movement and re-connected. All fixed. I have not had this issue in a few months.


To me it is like the system is stuck in off mode so you do not get air thru the vents but you can still hear the doors open and close as you move the mode knob. I have had this on and off issue since the I bought the jeep brand new in March 2006. first time it happened was September of 2006. September is when grouse hunting opens in WA state and I idle up and down forest roads looking for gravel chickens :)
 

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My 2006 LJ A/C has quit for now, it use to run then quit and come back on. No fan on any speed I can hear the blend doors changing position as I move the selector switch but nothing. When it does run it blows cold tried jumping low pressure switch,nothing . Hesitant to buy a new panel as the 2005-2006 panels are in the $500 range for some reason. Maybe try a new blower resistor? Anyone know why we cant use the cheaper 1997-2004 panels any coversion?
 

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My 2006 LJ A/C has quit for now, it use to run then quit and come back on. No fan on any speed I can hear the blend doors changing position as I move the selector switch but nothing. When it does run it blows cold tried jumping low pressure switch,nothing . Hesitant to buy a new panel as the 2005-2006 panels are in the $500 range for some reason. Maybe try a new blower resistor? Anyone know why we cant use the cheaper 1997-2004 panels any coversion?

When I first read your post, I thought it was a typo, so I checked and was floored that it was not. I had bought one about 18 months ago for under $150.00, installed it and it turned out that it was something else (a hole in my vacuum line.) Just to be on the same page, we are talking 55056558ab, yes?


The fan speed resistor fails in a very predicable way. First the slowest speed does not work any more, then the next slowest speed fails, then the next slowest speed fails, then it's just full blast.


And to answer your other question, there is a difference in the driver-side selector switch, the earlier unit is squarish and the latter switch is round. See my next post about the pin-outs.


/herb
 

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rockinw,

So don't take this as gospel, but...


I took a look at the connector diagram from a 2004 service manual and compared it with one from a 2005. I think you "might" be able to get away with it.


The positions are the same, but if there is any variation in connector blade positioning, width, length, or thickness, you would have to make 5 little converter cables to go from the mismatched male side to the mismatched female side.

Also, I can't say for sure if there is or is not anything "special" with the new design. Like a resistor or something else that was added to address a problem with the 2003-2004 model year. There was a major change with regards to the manual transmission (that's why the "it's time to up-shift" light stopped working between the 2004 to 2005 models.) Dunno if there was a cascade effect with regards to the computer or anything else.

PNGs attached.


/herb
 

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I looked in the FSM and I'm not seeing a specification for year model. That makes me think the two are the same on the inside, but I compared the two and the plugs are different for sure. Sounds possible, but it seems like that could turn into a headache real quick.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3jqr5y0smrmrlit/PicsArt_08-17-03.36.23.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kc3g87yp5wjbf2u/PicsArt_08-17-03.35.02.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5xabfpwjj1cdt78/IMG_20190817_153943.jpg?dl=0

For what it's worth, I did come across the '06 panel for $146. I can go back and find the link if I need to.
 
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