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Discussion Starter #1
What do you all know about the Nth Degree Tummy Tucker part no.
TT-D3MR1 (1.25" drop) skid plate?
I would like to do a 1" MM lift and a 1" BL (M.O.R.E.) and do the Tummy Tucker without a new DS.
http://www.nthdegreemobility.com/tt.htm

Eventually I will be doing the Full-Traction 4" Flex Arm Suspension System part no. FTS7505H. and a TW D.S.
http://www.full-traction.com

I will be going to 33" tires MAX. in the future when my tires are finally worn.


Do you think I can get away with just the BL and MM lift with this skid plate and not do the DS now?
 

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I don't think you will be able to skip the driveshaft for now and not have vibes. You may be ok tho. I suggest going ahead and doing the CV when you put the skid on. Oh and don't forget you will need Adjustable Upper Control Arms!
 

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Re: Nice....

rubirock said:
But will I be getting the right length DS at this point? Will this DS work when I lift it later?
Good point.....I know there is some play in the DS, but if you get a DS now and lift more (4 in is a lot of change)then your DS may not be long enough to accomidate your new lift....hmm....dose anyone else think this makes sense?
 

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Re: Nice....

petesjeeprubi said:
rubirock said:
But will I be getting the right length DS at this point? Will this DS work when I lift it later?
Good point.....I know there is some play in the DS, but if you get a DS now and lift more (4 in is a lot of change)then your DS may not be long enough to accomidate your new lift....hmm....dose anyone else think this makes sense?
Pete:

Yes, that makes complete sense. Getting a CV DS now will help with any potential vibes. That DS could always be modified later which would be cheaper than replacing it.

Jerry
 

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5" of lift for 33s??

And 'MAX of 33s'......we have all said that to ourselves at one time or another.... :D

I am betting that you are going to still need a driveshaft and upper arms with the TT. From what i have seen the TT is rather agressive in its clearance gains ( which is a good thing! ).

With the motor mount lift and the non-body lift version of the TT you might be able to get away with using upper arms to dial the rear pinion angle.....maybe....
 

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I did the TT 1.25 version, 1" BL, no MML. I also have about a 2" spring spacer.

The drive shaft angle created by this set up is pretty steep. I did replace the drive shaft first because mine was fully extended. Then I tried just rear UCA's but the rear track bar hit the gas tank skid. I did the lowers and have a pretty clean running drive train now. I really like the belly clearance!

Bottom line. I did not try the MML so don't know if that will fend off the vibes with a stock drive shaft. But, if you do have to change drive shafts, I think you'll need LCA's & shock relocators.

Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Points well taken!

Thanks all for your input!
Yeh LimeRubi, your probally right, but it sure looks like a good excuse for the 35" when I approach the wife!


badmonkeytoo , how did the install go with th TT? The instructions look very impressive. Nth dergree does recommend doing the MML though, but you never know what vibes you will get until you just do it.


See
Ya
 

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I confess.... I paid a guy at Off Road Warehouse to install it. (he has the lift and correct tools, I don't) As it was, he and a helper spent about 4 hours on the job. They had never done one before but were impressed when it was done, as was I. They had to lengthen a couple of the air lines when they relocated the locker pumps, but I think that was the only addition required. They did not need to dent the bucket and I've heard no clunking of any kind.

Since I had to change the drive shaft, I did not see the need for a MML.

Good luck, Nick
 

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I have a tiny inconsistant "tickle". It's much weaker but simular to the original "pulsing" that a lot of Rubi owners reported. I don't feel it very often and don't believe it has anything to do with the TT. I'm sure if I spent a little more time making sure everything was nice and tight, it would all go away.

Nick
 
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