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Discussion Starter #1
Just bought a new 6x12 utility,.... and I'm planning on adding some side rails.

BACKSTORY: My previous 6x8, bought in '99 was extensively modified over the years to facilitate heavier loads (axle moved back, gusseted corners and reinforced center channels, eye bolt tie downs, c-channel motorcycle wheel chock and 1" tubing stakes for side rails). I can't say enough great things about this trailer for the last 20 years. Amazing unit.

Now, back on topic. This new trailer is definitely not up to the duties of my old trailer (at 4 times the price in '99). ... AND it doesn't even have stake pockets. I want to add front and side rails to make hauling my garbage cans more easier. Here's the kicker.... I don't want to weld or drill holes in trailer tubing.

See attached Pic to see my mock up for attempting this (using scrap pieces).
- 1.5" metal tubing side posts on new trailer (no stake pockets).
- Attach a wooden 2x2 (or equivalent) upright to metal side post with square U-bolts.
- Attach decking boards to 2x2 uprights .... Possibly using 4" long, 1/2" wide u-bolts to clamp all three items together (metal upright, wood upright & side board).

Any thoughts/ideas that I'm overlooking to attach without drilling/welding the trailer tubing?

The second pic is the old trailer's version of securing my garbage cans for transport. Works very well and easy to apply.... would like to do same to new trailer. .. . ... ... .. without drilling into metal tubing ... OR ... welding.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No welding because it would mess up the paint. Then I'd have to paint them. Wouldn't match, have to paint whole trailer. Probably just gonna drill through metal uprights and mount wood 2x2 to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Very true. My previous 6x8 utility was very, very ugly. Best dang trailer ever. Many welded stake pockets, crossmembers, corner gussets, longitudinal braces and moved the axle back 6" for hauling two HD motorcycles. Still have it, but it won't haul my new motorcycle with longer exhaust tips. Lol. Wanted to buy a new one.... with fold down gate/ramp.
 

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Do you plan on leaving the sides on permanently or having them removeable?

You could simply build "picture frame" style panels for each section between the top rail, upright side rails, and bed.
Then attach the side boards to them, set in place and secure the framework from the outside by "sandwiching" the existing top rail and side rails.

The idea in my head is way easier than the gibberish I just wrote. :laugh2:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, there was a long power outage yesterday (all day!). Amazing what you will do when there's no electronics around.... Lol. I got to playing with some decking and 2x2s and decided to drill & bolt them on (using cordless power tools).

Realized I never removed the side rails from the old trailer in the 18 or so years they were on there... so bolting them on seemed logical. Lol.

Here's what I went with.
- Bolted 2x2 uprights, piggybacking the metal uprights.
- One 12' deck board down each side bottom (to contain small items) & four 29" sections up front on sides to house the garbage cans.
- I only used 2 boards down low in front to allow tow vehicle lights to show when unladened (probably re-do to match sides).
- 2x2s up top, front and rear, to secure/stabilize trash cans.
- I also added a few "slots" I made out of 2x2s to slide a decking board in to secure stuff on the bottom 12 footers. One at base of trash cans, one about 8' 3" back to secure lumber and one about 10' 3" back for longer lumber..... also one for the gap at rear gate.

Should be able to haul my trash cans, lumber, pipe, mulch, gravel, etc with ease. When the recessed tie downs arrive (and I install them), I'll be able to haul the motorcycle when it goes in for service.

Next mod, harbor freight metal tongue box .... then led back-up lights on rear gate.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I used the "slot" method with decking board "slats" on my car hauler to contain the pancake air tank, spare wheels/tires (we de-bead a lot in rallycross), jack stands, etc ......
Figured I could use that idea on the utility as well, since I felt the need to cover the gap at the bottom of the gate.

The 2x2 retention device resulted from items I had on hand at the time when modding the old utility trailer years ago. It has worked great for years, so I decided to continue with it on the new one. Easy to add/remove/stow, secure and effective.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Added 8 recessed tie down loops. Router died about 4.5 holes into it. Had to drill a lot and hammer and chisel out the other 3.5 holes.... Chisel was actually a pry bar, making it even harder to do.
4 across the front, for dual motorcycles if needed. 2 in rear corners. 2 in the middle.
Should assist with any tie down issues.
May add another one in the middle rear.

Now on to some L.E.D. back-up/reverse lights on the tailgate.... And little clear L.E.D. marker button lights on the sides to assist backing in the dark.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ran wire down the side frame tubes (awaiting LED backup lights to arrive - ebay).
Had some clear LED marker lights that i wanted to put around a trailer to illuminate the surrounding area of the trailer when backing up. Didn't have the hardware (metal screws) to mount them on the square tubing, but did use the supplied bolts to mount to the rear fender.

Marker lights work pretty good. Pics don't do it justice.

Plan to add markers to the front corner posts facing rearward to illuminate the wheel/tire and one on the sides of the tailgate to project out..... As well as the 6" oval LED back up lights facing rearward (on outer tailgate tubes).
 

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Discussion Starter #16
DONE! Well, for now. Side markers at rear and oval LED reverse light on rear tailgate/ramp.

Also added Superbright LED reverse lights to stock Jeep housings.

Soon, will be doing some reverse lighting to the car-hauler as well!!!!
 

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