what year??... and WHY? Mike... :lildevil:
might call AEV maybe they have one laying around from a Hemi swap
might call AEV maybe they have one laying around from a Hemi swap
New OEM I6 crate motor ?
Haven't had time to search or make any phone calls yet but what do you all think a new crate (long block) will cost me?
How would a person know what the build date on a motor is? Would hate to buy a new motor then have cam issues...
How would a person know what the build date on a motor is? Would hate to buy a new motor then have cam issues...
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Okies, I know AEV has plenty of JK engines that you so like! They might have some TJ engines. Try here:
http://forum.aev-conversions.com/showthread.php?t=645&highlight=engine
http://forum.aev-conversions.com/showthread.php?t=645&highlight=engine
There is a shop in Petaluma that does motor swaps. Jeep Speed Shop.
He also might have one.
He also might have one.
I think it's like $1800 in quadratec.
When I went through this (with my 4.0 Liter), I found Mopar was only offering remanufactured or rebuilt motors. I used a local motor builder instead.Okies said:Haven't had time to search or make any phone calls yet but what do you all think a new crate (long block) will cost me?
How would a person know what the build date on a motor is? Would hate to buy a new motor then have cam issues...
Why not look at a stroker motor? Some additional upper end never hurts the dd but more torque on the low end for play. It's what I would do if mine failed.
I looked long and hard at strokers. I chose not to go with a stroker because a stroker gives a ton of top end at the cost of low end torque (where I use power the most). Ended up with some custom porting, etc for torque, but avoided stroking due to $ cost and torque cost.rubitx said:Why not look at a stroker motor? Some additional upper end never hurts the dd but more torque on the low end for play. It's what I would do if mine failed.
I am looking at a Rubi with a chit load of miles and blowing a little smoke. We all know when someone says a little. More then likely it's going through a qt of oil every tank.. Dunno but assuming the worse..
I don't have the time nor the desires to monkey with a motor rebuild. I was hoping to price a new OEM motor so I can make an offer accordingly..
Didn't know Mopar was rebuilt/ remans. Uhm, I guess I'll offer pennies instead of dimes on the dollar on this rig. Guy will probably tell me to pound sand... :laugh:
I've thought about both stroker and V8 swaps but dayum I have way too many irons in the fire as it is. I was thinking along the lines of a dealer making me a sweet deal on a new OE motor and install the dang thing and call me a week later telling me come and get it.. So much for that ideal.
I don't know, back to the drawing board comes to mind..
I don't have the time nor the desires to monkey with a motor rebuild. I was hoping to price a new OEM motor so I can make an offer accordingly..
Didn't know Mopar was rebuilt/ remans. Uhm, I guess I'll offer pennies instead of dimes on the dollar on this rig. Guy will probably tell me to pound sand... :laugh:
I've thought about both stroker and V8 swaps but dayum I have way too many irons in the fire as it is. I was thinking along the lines of a dealer making me a sweet deal on a new OE motor and install the dang thing and call me a week later telling me come and get it.. So much for that ideal.
I don't know, back to the drawing board comes to mind..
Send the Jeep and the Motor to me. I'll swap itOkies said:I am looking at a Rubi with a chit load of miles and blowing a little smoke. We all know when someone says a little. More then likely it's going through a qt of oil every tank.. Dunno but assuming the worse..
I don't have the time nor the desires to monkey with a motor rebuild. I was hoping to price a new OEM motor so I can make an offer accordingly..
Didn't know Mopar was rebuilt/ remans. Uhm, I guess I'll offer pennies instead of dimes on the dollar on this rig. Guy will probably tell me to pound sand... :laugh:
I've thought about both stroker and V8 swaps but dayum I have way too many irons in the fire as it is. I was thinking along the lines of a dealer making me a sweet deal on a new OE motor and install the dang thing and call me a week later telling me come and get it.. So much for that ideal.
I don't know, back to the drawing board comes to mind..
If I can find a Chevy V8 for the right price, we can do it all in one go!
"Mopar will also introduce a new 4.7-liter I-6 Stroker long block, a powerful
upgrade for the 4.0-liter I-6 made famous in Jeep vehicles built from
1991-2006. Because off-road enthusiasts appreciated the dependability and
performance of the previous 4.0-liter engine, Mopar developed a more powerful
engine that delivers an expected 265 hp and 290 lb.-ft of torque. The engine
will fit in any Jeep vehicle previously equipped with the 4.0-liter I-6
engine."
That's from a article from late last year. I looked on Mopar.com and started to download the catalog (pdf) but noticed it was dated for 2009. Don't think the newer stuff was in it.
Anyway if I was going to put another engine in my Jeep..a factory fresh stroker would be near the top of the list. :Military Jeeper:
upgrade for the 4.0-liter I-6 made famous in Jeep vehicles built from
1991-2006. Because off-road enthusiasts appreciated the dependability and
performance of the previous 4.0-liter engine, Mopar developed a more powerful
engine that delivers an expected 265 hp and 290 lb.-ft of torque. The engine
will fit in any Jeep vehicle previously equipped with the 4.0-liter I-6
engine."
That's from a article from late last year. I looked on Mopar.com and started to download the catalog (pdf) but noticed it was dated for 2009. Don't think the newer stuff was in it.
Anyway if I was going to put another engine in my Jeep..a factory fresh stroker would be near the top of the list. :Military Jeeper:
You could always offer me a good price. Lol. I've got a spare windshield frame for her, just need color matched paint.
That "mopar" stroker is made by ATK. If you are going to stroke it, you can do better than that.toolmantim said:"Mopar will also introduce a new 4.7-liter I-6 Stroker long block, a powerful
upgrade for the 4.0-liter I-6 made famous in Jeep vehicles built from
1991-2006. Because off-road enthusiasts appreciated the dependability and
performance of the previous 4.0-liter engine, Mopar developed a more powerful
engine that delivers an expected 265 hp and 290 lb.-ft of torque. The engine
will fit in any Jeep vehicle previously equipped with the 4.0-liter I-6
engine."
That's from a article from late last year. I looked on Mopar.com and started to download the catalog (pdf) but noticed it was dated for 2009. Don't think the newer stuff was in it.
Anyway if I was going to put another engine in my Jeep..a factory fresh stroker would be near the top of the list. :Military Jeeper:
JayDub said:I looked long and hard at strokers. I chose not to go with a stroker because a stroker gives a ton of top end at the cost of low end torque (where I use power the most). Ended up with some custom porting, etc for torque, but avoided stroking due to $ cost and torque cost.rubitx said:Why not look at a stroker motor? Some additional upper end never hurts the dd but more torque on the low end for play. It's what I would do if mine failed.
Strokers in TJs should give you more torque since 4.0s are are over square, stroking effectively gives you more piston travel which in theory should give you more torque and a more balanced engine. In theory :laugh:
Just for fun:
http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles ... index.html
Jaydub-JayDub said:I looked long and hard at strokers. I chose not to go with a stroker because a stroker gives a ton of top end at the cost of low end torque (where I use power the most). Ended up with some custom porting, etc for torque, but avoided stroking due to $ cost and torque cost.rubitx said:Why not look at a stroker motor? Some additional upper end never hurts the dd but more torque on the low end for play. It's what I would do if mine failed.
Do you remember the specs on the porting and whatever else you had done? How is it performing for you with some miles on it now and do you notice much of a difference with the mods done, how is it holding up?
I head down to the dealer in the morning after grave shift to pull the CPS/OPDG assembly and replace in their lot to have them re-sync once done. Expecting the worst as this is the SECOND time I've had this done now. The first was brand new off the lot with less than 1000 miles on it. That repair ended up as a total rebuild with new cam, crank, rods, lifters, etc., etc. Expecting the worst, I'm really hoping it doesn't come to that for the second time but if it does, thinking maybe I'd have some head work done, look at other cams and see what kind of "mild" changes can be made while it's apart. Just curious what you've done overall, specs, and how it's performing compared to the factory 4.0. Thanks for the info.
Best of Luck,
Mike
[quote='05TJLWBRUBY]
Do you remember the specs on the porting and whatever else you had done? How is it performing for you with some miles on it now and do you notice much of a difference with the mods done, how is it holding up?
I head down to the dealer in the morning after grave shift to pull the CPS/OPDG assembly and replace in their lot to have them re-sync once done. Expecting the worst as this is the SECOND time I've had this done now. The first was brand new off the lot with less than 1000 miles on it. That repair ended up as a total rebuild with new cam, crank, rods, lifters, etc., etc. Expecting the worst, I'm really hoping it doesn't come to that for the second time but if it does, thinking maybe I'd have some head work done, look at other cams and see what kind of "mild" changes can be made while it's apart. Just curious what you've done overall, specs, and how it's performing compared to the factory 4.0. Thanks for the info.
Best of Luck,
Mike[/quote]
Here is the thread:
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=67860&hilit=install+4.0
Here is the spec on my build:
Parts list (format to be quantity / part number & description)
1/H825CP .030 Pistons
1/E234K .030 Moly Rings
1/GC609P .010 Rod Bearings
1/MS1947P .010 Main bearings
1/N7 Cam Bearings
1/3161 Timing Set
1/M81A Oil Pump
1/MPE256BR Brass Soft Plugs
1/MC1377 Cam
12/HA2011 Lifters
1/HS26211 Gaskets
1/CS8169-4 Gaskets
1/ES71102 head bolts
12/Brass Valve Guides
12/VS1456 springs
6/break-in oil (SAE 30 Valvoline Non-Detergent) Part number VV265
1/#159 Oil Additive (Comp Cams Engine Break In Oil Additive) Good for CAM BAD for Catalytic converters.
Labor list:
Bore 6 Cyl
R&R 6 Connecting Rods
Valve Job 6 Cyl
Install Guides 6 Cyl
Crankshaft Grind
Install Cam Bearing
Re-size big end of Rods
Surfave 6 Cyl Head
Degrease Block only (he actually did extra cleaning and de-greasing for me)
Disassemble
Assemble 6 Cyl Long Block
R&R Rod Bolts
Install Soft Plugs
Computer Balance
Port work head and intake (this was a mild port match for the Borla headers I bought) Intention on the porting was to maximize torque.
Port information:
25" Water
3.975 Adapter
Format to be Lift/Stock Intake/Ported Intake/Stock Exhaust/Ported Exhaust
200/86/94/69/76
300/110.5/118/84/97
400/142/159/96/119
500/159/170.5/121/134
550/168/179.5/124/146
Average 76% gain. Port guy said 28 HP gain with 34 Ft.Lbs of Torque. Any more aggressive proting or polishing would have added high RPM horsepower at the cost of Low RPM torque so he stopped.
Porting was done via a local shop who does custom work based on each specific motor on the table.
Jaydub-JayDub said:I looked long and hard at strokers. I chose not to go with a stroker because a stroker gives a ton of top end at the cost of low end torque (where I use power the most). Ended up with some custom porting, etc for torque, but avoided stroking due to $ cost and torque cost.rubitx said:Why not look at a stroker motor? Some additional upper end never hurts the dd but more torque on the low end for play. It's what I would do if mine failed.
Do you remember the specs on the porting and whatever else you had done? How is it performing for you with some miles on it now and do you notice much of a difference with the mods done, how is it holding up?
I head down to the dealer in the morning after grave shift to pull the CPS/OPDG assembly and replace in their lot to have them re-sync once done. Expecting the worst as this is the SECOND time I've had this done now. The first was brand new off the lot with less than 1000 miles on it. That repair ended up as a total rebuild with new cam, crank, rods, lifters, etc., etc. Expecting the worst, I'm really hoping it doesn't come to that for the second time but if it does, thinking maybe I'd have some head work done, look at other cams and see what kind of "mild" changes can be made while it's apart. Just curious what you've done overall, specs, and how it's performing compared to the factory 4.0. Thanks for the info.
Best of Luck,
Mike[/quote]
Here is the thread:
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=67860&hilit=install+4.0
Here is the spec on my build:
Parts list (format to be quantity / part number & description)
1/H825CP .030 Pistons
1/E234K .030 Moly Rings
1/GC609P .010 Rod Bearings
1/MS1947P .010 Main bearings
1/N7 Cam Bearings
1/3161 Timing Set
1/M81A Oil Pump
1/MPE256BR Brass Soft Plugs
1/MC1377 Cam
12/HA2011 Lifters
1/HS26211 Gaskets
1/CS8169-4 Gaskets
1/ES71102 head bolts
12/Brass Valve Guides
12/VS1456 springs
6/break-in oil (SAE 30 Valvoline Non-Detergent) Part number VV265
1/#159 Oil Additive (Comp Cams Engine Break In Oil Additive) Good for CAM BAD for Catalytic converters.
Labor list:
Bore 6 Cyl
R&R 6 Connecting Rods
Valve Job 6 Cyl
Install Guides 6 Cyl
Crankshaft Grind
Install Cam Bearing
Re-size big end of Rods
Surfave 6 Cyl Head
Degrease Block only (he actually did extra cleaning and de-greasing for me)
Disassemble
Assemble 6 Cyl Long Block
R&R Rod Bolts
Install Soft Plugs
Computer Balance
Port work head and intake (this was a mild port match for the Borla headers I bought) Intention on the porting was to maximize torque.
Port information:
25" Water
3.975 Adapter
Format to be Lift/Stock Intake/Ported Intake/Stock Exhaust/Ported Exhaust
200/86/94/69/76
300/110.5/118/84/97
400/142/159/96/119
500/159/170.5/121/134
550/168/179.5/124/146
Average 76% gain. Port guy said 28 HP gain with 34 Ft.Lbs of Torque. Any more aggressive proting or polishing would have added high RPM horsepower at the cost of Low RPM torque so he stopped.
Porting was done via a local shop who does custom work based on each specific motor on the table.
Surprisingly AutoZone sells motors so give them a call.
I have never seen a competently built stroker motor produce less torque than the base engine it's built on. Especially true of the 4.0L based variety. Quite a few of them make more torque at 1600 rpm than a stock 4.0L does anywhere in its torque curve.JayDub said:I looked long and hard at strokers. I chose not to go with a stroker because a stroker gives a ton of top end at the cost of low end torque (where I use power the most). Ended up with some custom porting, etc for torque, but avoided stroking due to $ cost and torque cost.rubitx said:Why not look at a stroker motor? Some additional upper end never hurts the dd but more torque on the low end for play. It's what I would do if mine failed.
http://www.ajeepthing.com/stroker-motor.html
http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/engine/129_0712_2000_jeep_wrangler_40l_inline_6/stroker.html
http://home.pacbell.net/jay_w007/dyno_sheet_text.html
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
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