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New Member, have some questions I was hoping I could get insight.

3167 Views 31 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  johncanfield
Hello everyone,

I found this forum as I seem to be racking up expensive repairs on my 2017 Rubicon Recon Edition and am looking for insight or advice. I'll admit I'm not very car-savvy, but I love my Rubicon and up until September of last year have had no issues. It's always been serviced at the dealership, and has been maintained by the book. The car has never been in an accident, and I haven't taken it off-road but one time the first year I owned it.

Here's the timeline:

Drove across country with it in late August. Had the wheels balanced and rotated a month before out West, where I was living. Car hit 60,000 miles so I took it into the dealership in my hometown in New Hampshire for scheduled tune-up. Was told that I had 3 wheel seals leaking that needed replacement. Okay, that stinks, $2900 for all services.

When I got the car back it did not drive the same. The steering felt loose, particularly on corners at higher speeds. I began to develop what I believe is called "the death wobble" over the next several months, but I rarely drive on the highway or any speed greater than about 30 MPH as I live in the mountains and have no need to commute. I had to drive the airport once and literally had to pull over 5 times as the car started shaking violently on corners.

When I got back in November I took the car right to the dealership, explained what had happened. They drove it around the parking lot and said it's the tires, they were aggressive stock mud terrain and the service manager said it had a cupped wear pattern. I was due to put my studded tires on for the winter, so sigh, okay, throw out the old tires.

This made a very minimal difference. Over the winter I did very little driving, and my roads are dirt and full of potholes, so everything is a challenge to control the car. I began to notice the wobble more and more the times I had to go to town on paved roads at 50 MPH.

The engine light came on 2 weeks ago, but I could not notice any change in the sound. or feel of the car. I brought it to the dealership and they checked it and it was a gas cap seal failure (which I cleared in the interim by simply gently moving the gas tank inlet around), and that I also needed new rear brakes, new rear shock, one of the front wheel seals they repaired was leaking again, and left left front axle joint was loose and needed to be replaced. They would eat the cost of the wheel seal as they had recently repaired it (after I proved it to them). Okay, sigh. $1760. I explained, again, the wobble and they assured me this would fix the problem.

So the work is complete yesterday, the mechanic test drives it and says "Hey, this car isn't driving correctly!". Gets the manager and his boss and the take it for a test drive. Suddenly the car won't turn correctly, and to quote him "It feels like the front end is tearing itself about left-to-right". Gets the master mechanic to look at it and they conclude that it's probably the front differential attenuator, 98% chance, but they can't guarantee it. That'll be another $1,500, please, and now unfortunately the car is not drivable because it won't turn. I have not authorized that work yet.

I'm reaching out to see if anyone has any idea(s) as to what I should do, or what the root cause of the problem is? I've sunk $5,000 into the car in the last 7 months and am left with an undrivable vehicle, when it was absolutely perfect when I brought it in for scheduled maintenance.

Thanks for your time. I know this was a small book to read.
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Welcome!

"..front differential attenuator ....." Huh? That sounds like the old joke of a muffler bearing :rolleyes:. If there is such a thing, I'm totally surprised. Anyway DW (death wobble) is a well known malady which is usually caused by something out of spec in the front suspension - ball joints, tie rod, etc.

Guys - what say you? renglish (our professional Jeep wrench) - here's a good one for your learned opinion.
I do as much of the maintenance and repairs of my Jeeps as I can handle. Beyond that, I have a local independent repair shop that I trust. I would only go to a dealership for warranty work. Front end parts do wear out, and the rough roads don't help. It sounds like you need to find an honest and capable repair shop.
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Thank you for your responses, greatly appreciated. I was shying away from blaming the dealership because I wanted to understand maybe, mechanically, how this could happen.

I am going to drive the car either tonight, or early tomorrow morning. They said I would get about 10 feet. I drove it in with no problem.

And there's one thing I left out, dealership-wise, because I want to focus on mechanics, not service, though I may need to go there.
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"Front differential attenuator" I googled the thing and nothing came up. I would love to see a mopar part number for it. The closest I came to it is an aftermarket "steering attenautor", I agree with John, sounds like nonsense.
I would recommend you find a local Jeep club, ask them for a Jeep friendly mechanic/shop.
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Welcome to the forum.

There was a Jeep shop in my area that was soaking me. I became suspicious when every time I brought my CJ in the head was suspected to be warped. I think they lost track of how often they claimed that. Eventually I found out they lost their business legally in a lawsuit for dishonest work.

I didn’t want to be a victim anymore and began doing my own work. I’ve developed into a decent mechanic over time by experience, this forum, and YouTube. Doing your own work is empowering and you won’t be a victim. You’ll save a boatload of money.

Death Wobble <—- a term way too broadly used. I finally found how to permanently kill it on my Jeep. I can have the worst tires on the planet and no death wobble. Firstly, I had to replace anything that had a rod end. Then I did my own alignment referencing directly off the rotors as they rested on car ramps. I think it’s been a couple of years since that work and my tires are horrible. If I do feel a small vibe, I grease everything and it goes away. I expect to have to repeat my work in the near future. I’ll post this and edit with the link to my work.

Edit Alignment Journey Check out the tool further down.
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YIKES
Your post makes me cringe. I feel like they are soaking you on purpose.
I'd highly suggest you get it out of there.

Maybe check out these guys and their facebook page

They could have some good local contacts for you
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Thank you so much for your posts!

I went into the dealership today in the late afternoon and asked to drive my car. It drove forward like a car in 4WHL, lurching for 5 feet at a time when I tried to turn it, When I tried to back it up it flatly refused....there was no input or response. It made it 3 feet and quit.

I guess my deep sorrow is I love my Jeep.
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I do not know the area that you live but across North America it is hard to find qualified help in any industry. When you go to the dealer you ay have inexperienced technicians and front end staff that has to stand behind them.

Your check engine light is a problem of its own, don't worry about it until you get the steering sorted,

There is many ways to diagnose your problem but another $1700 almost sure repair is not correct.
If you don't do your own repairs then you have a couple options. First I would get you receipts in order and go down to the dealership and ask to see the dealer principle. This is the person who is the top boss. Firmly explain your situation and ask for it to be resolved without cost. If you do not get results or they refuse to see you then phone the Better Business Bureau or whatever the equivalent is in your state. Then post your story on the local facebook rant and rave. You want to get their attention.

The other option is to get you Jeep to a different shop and pay for a repair.
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If you decide to go to your dealer, here is a link to an article I read a few years ago that has some helpful tips:
Car Salesman Confidential: How To Complain To A Dealership

And if the dealership doesn't fix your problem you can contact FCA direclty:
Lemon Law, Warranty and Repair Help | Mopar®
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Thank you all for the responses and suggestions and links. I have a meeting with the Service Manager (I'll start there) on Monday.
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Just a quick update.

I had a nice, measured talk with the service manager. I misspoke before when I said "attentuator"...they think it is the "actuator", shows my lack of knowledge. They think the car is somehow locked in 4WDL.

The left front axle tie rod, which was replaced, communicates with the actuator, but in theory it is a sealed unit. They cannot explain how it happened, but I will not be paying for the repair.

I will update when I have resolution, as very quickly I learned some valuable things from this forum and felt I was better equipped to negotiate, and perhaps someone else will benefit from my experience.
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I’m hearing you say that there is communication between the driver’s side tie rod end and the actuator in the differential? I had to go look at some YouTube of the tie rod end in your vehicle to see if they added some new type of technology. Your tie rod is a steel linkage so that your front wheels act together and don’t fight each other. There are no electronics associated with anything on your tie rod. The differential probably grew its problem when they reinstalled the axle doing your seals. Blaming your tires sounds like a diversion from their errors in repair.

Get your Jeep leveled out by them. Don’t pay another dime. Don’t ever go back to them. Your experience is exactly why I started doing my own work. Just criminal. Don’t blame yourself for vulnerability. The only thing I regret about wrenching on my Jeep is that I didn’t do it earlier.

We want you here bro. You can easily do brakes, tie rod ends, etc. You can do it for way less than $ X,XXX.
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Axle shaft
Not tie rod

axle shaft connects differential to hub
These are parts of the drivetrain

tie rod connects the knuckles so the wheels remain mostly parallel
(this is the toe setting of your front alignment)
This is part of the steering assembly

the 2 are completely separate
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elf - ok, your comment is making me think it’s an axle issue, but where the heck does death wobble come in? Separate problem I guess.
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Death Wobble comes from the steering components
Something not being tight or being worn
Can be tie rod ends
Track bar
Ball Joints
Drag link

its easier to figure that out with 2 people
Someone at the steering wheel with the other person looking at parts, while person 1 shakes the steering wheel.
you want to check for slop at the end of all of the bars where they attach to either the frame, bracket on the axle or the knuckles
Ball joints can be checked by jacking up one tire at a time and grabbing the tire at 12 and 6 and see if there is any play
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Just a quick update.

I had a nice, measured talk with the service manager. I misspoke before when I said "attentuator"...they think it is the "actuator", shows my lack of knowledge. They think the car is somehow locked in 4WDL.
...
Thanks for the follow-up!
@anthony21colacino
Here is a good 2 part Video Series to detail the front end steering components and what to check for.


and

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The dealer needs to deal with this and I hope they do in a professional manner.
I never judge anyone or any shop for making a mistake, everyone can have a bad day, it is how you deal with it that makes a difference.

They did front axle seals which involve removing the differential case. There is many ways this can go bad when reinstalling so hopefully they did not do too much damage.

Anthony, it would be great if one of us lived close enough to help you out.
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rlenglish - you make a good point on shops. The thousands of dollars bug me.
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