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Discussion Starter #1
I recently purchased the Currie RockJock trackbar (the one that comes with larger bolts for BOTH ends, 9120TJJ i think) and installed it before the Harlan trip. Seemed ok at first, but slowly started getting wobble back at 40-50mph. Not full blown death wobble, just a constant wobble at those speeds and a bit of bump steer when I hit bumps. It eventually got worse and then started creaking, when I realized the johnny joint at the FRAME end was moving (also fkf9 helped me see that, thanks man!).

I know its common for the axle end to loosen up and move around, but that hasn't budged one bit. I followed the instructions, and drilled out the frame end to 5/8'', and installed the bolt at frame end and torqued to 125ft/lbs. Once it came loose and I tightened it, the wobble seemed to go away completely. After a 30min drive home, it feels like it might have came loose again, somewhat of a wobble. Anyone have this issue? It worries me a bit, because once that is drilled out to 5/8'' I can't really use many other options...at least none that I know of. It took forever to drill that hole out as it is somewhat thick. I guess I maybe could have not gone perfectly straight, causing the hole to be somewhat looser than a 5/8'' bolt. Would locktite help this condition? I did some more research and see there are clayton kits that have a new trackbar mount (weld in) at frame end and the joint faces the other way instead of horizontal. I would have to get a whole new bar to use this. Any suggestions? Permanent fix? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The locknut that came with it? Or get a new one? And where can I get the right size/grade? I was thinking about trying that but wasn't sure if it would work due to the bolt flexing in the hole. Thanks though! Will try for sure.
 

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You can reuse the one you have, I'd use it as the jam nut. The size I would assume would be 5/8" since that's the size bolt your using. It could beneither fine thread or course, that I am not sure about. My RE uses a fine thread bolt/nut. You should be able to get them at any decent hardware store: lowes, home depo, true value, ace, etc...

You want the ALL METAL lock nut though, not the nylon type that have that little white nylon piece you see just on the inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok I'll try that. Thanks again. By the way, where were you last weekend? We missed you at Harlan...it was a blast. I assume you know Reed personally?
 

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Oh yea, Reed & I are friends and in the same club, great guy & fun to wheel with. I didn't know he was going, but i saw that he did. As far as my excuse... I really don't have one :oops: I should have went. But i got carried away with this project of mine and gearing up for it. If you remember back on the other thread I said i would have one about this time of year... Well I'm running late on it cause I keep procrastinating. I'm redoing my crusher corners and several other things as well. So i got busy getting things ready for that, which will start tomorrow. I need to get my arse down there, and it would have been especially cool to meet all of you all! But i snoozed so I lost out on that deal. Perhaps next spring/early summer.
 

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Two more things... I don't know what grade of bolt Currie sends. Do you know if it is a grade 8?? I would hope that it is. If not, if I were in your shoes i would replace it with a fine thread (if you can get it) grade 8. If what you have is a grade 8, that's fine... But take the bolt out and clean it well before using loctite. It does make a difference.
 

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I disagree with the loctite. You will need to check to see if it's tight and that can't be done effectively if loctite is used. What if it gets loose due the the soft metal on the frame mount compressing a little?

Currie uses fine thread grade 8 bolts. I think the locking nuts are grade C.
 

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I'm getting a little wobble that started on the drive to Harlan to meet you. Those nuts are basically "one use" things (do not remember the proper nomenclature). They are all metal and they are hard to thread from start to finish. I would call David up and explain the situation to him. If, he doesn't know, he will give you a name to ask for at Currie. I've read solutions from using an extra washer to the loctite route and everything in between.

Some swear their way works for them and it doesn't seem to work for others. I'm going to crank down on mine some more and try using a second nut if, that doesn't work.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The spec for this one is 125ft lbs. And actually, I checked the bolt today and it wasn't loose. I didn't use torque wrench but it was damn tight. Maybe I have wobble from something else instead? It isn't consistent. My tires were just balanced (before Harlan) and I'm sure out of balance now. Also slightly bent the tie rod there. I will re align it and see, but I had a bit of wobble after alignment last time. My control arm bushings look ok. I want to replace steering stabalizer but I hear that masks the problem. Could a bad one still cause it? Everything else looks fine. I want to get OEM moabs someday, because these wheels aren't hub centric and discount tire said they are somewhat out of round (the tires)
 

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IMHO, the operation of a steering system, the vehicles track/alignment on road and everything else basically should operate very much the same with or without a stabilizer. Yes it does steady the steering system, more importantly it is there to protect the steering system from shock. I do not think that a worn stabilizer would cause your issue. But I could be wrong. I have also read and agree that it can/could mask a problem.

What Reed was refering to about washers is another idea that does work IMO. I am assuming he is talking about using grade 8 washers on either side of the OEM frame end that the TB mounts to. At least the side with the nut. No it isn't required. But the washers are more hard than the OEM mount at the frame. They spread the torque from the bolt and nut, and they keep the nut and/or the end of the TB from digging into the OEM mount.
 

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Jeepless in PA
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jfandem said:
The locknut that came with it? Or get a new one? And where can I get the right size/grade?
I go to http://www.boltdepot.com for the hard to find sizes.


If double nutting and lock washers do not work, is the bolt thick enough to drill and use a castle nut and cotter pin?
 

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And even though I've reused several under the same circumstances, when you've used a cripmed type lock-nut you really should replace the bolt as well as the nut is compressed on one end and will wear/deform the bolt threads when originally installed. This will allow even a new nut to become loosened more easily.

And the Castle nut with washers would be a good idea.

Joey
 

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jfandem said:
...............My control arm bushings look ok..............
Whoa! I remember now that you bought the LJ already lifted with a RE lift. Looking ok might not cut it. I'd replace them when time/money permits. You did have movement on the axle end of the Currie TB, though. You placed your finger between the threaded portion of the tre and JJ housing and felt movement, correct? However unlikely that it's a bad JJ, what makes you think it's the bolt tension now?
 

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The lock nut you want is called a Stover nut I am pretty sure. No nylon. Bolt places will have them, but the big box stores won't. Yes, grade 8. And once you get it torqued down (I wouldn't use lock-tite myself) then run the other nut on there as a jam. My JKS came with a stover type nut. I bet that is what you got from Currie as well. If it's all metal but will not go on by hand, it's probably a stover. If it is, just get a jam nut the correct size for a lock. If it still comes loose you may of had a bad drill bit and the hole is a bit larger than 5/8". In that event what I'd do (and many will slam this!) is to slather the bore in the frame mount with JB Weld. You'll have to heat it with a torch to remove it, but it will not wobble in the bore. If you can stick the bolt in the bore and it wobbles it'll come loose for sure.
 

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I too have fought this problem and just realized this week that the bolt they provided was just a tad too long(bolt threads bottomed out and seemed as thought the torque was right). I went to bolt store and got a shorter bolt and really helped the problem. but the damage is done, the factory bracket is slightly wallered out. I would sell my new currie TB to do the clayton version. only because I need to remove the TB mount and replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
DAROCK said:
I too have fought this problem and just realized this week that the bolt they provided was just a tad too long(bolt threads bottomed out and seemed as thought the torque was right). I went to bolt store and got a shorter bolt and really helped the problem. but the damage is done, the factory bracket is slightly wallered out. I would sell my new currie TB to do the clayton version. only because I need to remove the TB mount and replace it.
I kinda thought that too, that maybe the shoulder of the bolt was being exposed past the frame hole and the nut was hitting that. Either way, when I get it tight I still seem to have wobble. It's weird though, sometimes its literally not there at all, then it is 5 minutes later.

I would consider switching to a different design if thats the only real fix. Does the clayton version allow for the same type of flex/stabilty/etc? Looks like you just use the factory hole/bolt to hold the bracket in place when you weld it on.

Then I keep reading about Tera LCG kits and others that get rid of track bars all together, with a 4 link or 3 link. Might be something to consider, but not sure if it's the best option (good for daily driving? ) I'll have to keep researching.
 

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Okay, just got off the phone with David at Northridge. He was on the road or in a bad spot and called me right back. I explained our situation and asked him for the contact's name at Currie that I had spoken with before concerning another issue and he was super. His name is CHRIS. I explained the problems we are having to him.

As mentioned previously, he explained that the problems usually arises when the hole has already been "wallowed" out or improper drilling. He stated that the original locking nut can be reused. When I asked about the possibility of not enough threads on the bolt, he advised that that was highly unlikely but, adding a washer should cure that. I inquired about a second bolt as Eric(Sweetpee) recommended to keep it tight and he said you could but, doubted that it would work.

I think that Currie is the flagship of aftermarket manufacturers and am only the messenger reporting the content of the call while it is fresh in my mind.

Whether, the reusing of the locking nut or bolt is correct or not, I dunno. I just made the calls to try to assist.
 
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