need opinions for 32 or 33 with no lift..

Re: need opinions for 32 or 33

I guess the real question is are you wanting to "mod" your Jeep at all, or just fit what you can with what you have? Assuming the 32/33's are more for looks than actually needed for your wheeling? Or-are your 31's just not getting you where you want to go? The easy/fast/simple solution is just toss on another set of 31's and be done with it. You could probably fit a 265 on without any trouble at all-which is/should be around 32" roughly. I do have to agree with Sylgeist though on the "true" 33's-I LOVE my 255/85/16's very much. They are an excellent all-around tire size that performs well both on the street and off-road. They're a true 33" tire in that they measure about 33.5" tall when new and roughly 10" wide. They fit nicely under the stock factory flares, even with spydertrax spacers on the factory Moabs (what I run). I love them so much, my second set in this size should be here this week-I've worn out my first already...

These won't fit with just a BL though-at least not that I'd feel comfortable telling you to run. You'll want a suspension lift of at LEAST an OME HD/LJ setup if you're pretty much stock. If you're armored at all, the AEV/Nth 3" spring works great-I really like mine. I'm currently running the tire under the AEV spring with a JKS 1.25" BL. Lots of other suspension mods on my rig, but the setup works very well.

Another option for you that would work is go to a high-line or tube fender setup. You could keep your stock suspension if you went this route and likely bump up to 35's if you wanted. Granted, this does nothing for steering, brakes or axle upgrades with larger tires, but the option is there if you wanted a low-lift with bigger rubber. There are lots of ways to skin a cat, so pick your poison and determine what size you like and how you want to go about getting there.

Between the stock 245's and the 265-I don't know that I'd waste the time/money on the 265's if that's all the bigger I was going. There's not enough difference between them at all to make it worthwhile swap, so I'd just stick with the factory size in a flavor rubber you like best and call it good. If you do want something bigger though, a true 33" tire is really tough to beat. It just plain works, everywhere, period. Another benefit is it's not as "nasty" on components and a bit easier on maintenance things compared to bigger sizes. Again, all depends on what you really want out of the rig. Keep in mind, the bigger you go, the more money in mods it takes to make it "right" and hassle free, easy on maintenance, etc. Meaning, 35" tires require a lot more work to run "properly" than factory, or even 33's.

Best of Luck,

Mike

Mr. D said:

Here is what I am thinking:

Purchasing the flat plastic type fender flares from Bushwacker or Xenon.

I want to put 32 or 33 tires under my 04 ruby red rubicon.

If needed I may add a 1" body lift and etc...

I was trying to keep my stock suspension for now possibly get Mickey thompsons sidebitter rims in black and add 1" wheel spacers if needed.

I am trying to do something different and I mostly explore backroads not really into the rock crawling thing but I do like to watch it.

I went to a shop near my home and the shop recommended a 4" lift to run 33's but I know the wealth of knowledge here will guide me to a smart decision and options.

thanks

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Here's what I'm running at this moment:

Nth Degree Mobility Tummy Tuck Skid Plate (now AEV)
Teraflex lower rear adjustable control arms (for pinion adjustment)
Teraflex 1" body lift
Tefaflex Swaybar Disconnects (I intend to replace because I'm very unhappy with the quality)
Spidertrax 1.25" wheel spacers
Xenon 6" Flat Panel flares
Goodyear Wrangler MT/R Kevlars 305/70R16 (on stock Rubicon wheels)
Teraflex 0.75" coil spring spacers for front only (not installed, but on order) to level the Jeep and create more clearance up front

This is all trial & error on my part, but I, like you, am trying to go a little different direction than the norm. Basically, I'm looking for the absolute minimum amount of lift required to run 305/70R16s without significant sheet metal alteration and suspension replacement (and still be able to wheel moderate trails).

I've wheeled this setup once since installation (swaybar connected) at Texana Ranch near Blackwell, TX and had no rubbing at all. Granted, the swaybar was connected, but I still traversed some significant obstacles with no problems (tires in air in certain places). I know I'll be battling rubbing issues if I disconnect the swaybar, so I'm still working those details out. I'm willing to trim sheet metal under the stock fenders (lip on outer edge of front fenders where flares attach) if necessary. I just have not yet reached that stage of my build.

I've had my Jeep for almost 5 years and wheeled it pretty hard the first couple of years. I've since backed off the more aggressive trails primarily because my Jeep is a daily driver. I'll try to get some pics so you can see what it looks like (pre coil spacers).

I do not have my spare mounted yet, so the rear end is riding a bit high. I figure after I mount the spare, add the HiLift in the back, and install the coil spacers up front it'll sit completely level.

Mr. D said:

vsickle77, also how was the installation of your flares and did you do it yourself? I stopped at a shop today the guy said you have to cut the flares to fit and they are a PITA to put on. He said with the purchase of the flares and to install is 1K total I looked at him funny and said of course I am doing this myself.

Click to expand...

The installation wasn't exactly easy, but in my experience just about every mod/install turns out to be a "production" in some fashion. I'll admit I found myself cursin' like a sailor several times through the install of the first flare (front). But, after finishing the first one, the rest were less difficult. I had a helper during the install, which I highly recommend, because the value of an extra set of hands is priceless. I did not have to cut the flares in any way for the install. But, the new flare's holes didn't exactly line up with the holes in the metal fender. It required some re-drilling in either the flare or the fender. Also, installing the side-marker light in the front flares was a bit of a challange as you'll need a right angle screw driver. I did not have one, so I drilled an access hole through the flare material that interfered with the use of a standard screwdriver and then used an extra long driver bit (through the hole I drilled) to drive the corresponding screw for the marker light. Accessing the backsides of the flare bolts on the rear flares was tedious because they are located between the fender well insert and the body. I chose not to remove the inserts and instead just bent them out of the way. In hindsight, this may not have been the best choice, but nonetheless, I got it done. I'm guessing this makes absolutely no sense to you without pictures to help explain it. I did not take any pictures during the install, but when I have a chance, I can get some photos under the fender that I think will suffice. All this aside, I'm very happy with they result and would do it all over again. And, as a matter of fact, I'll be doing just that. When I purchased the flares, I ordered two sets - one for my Jeep and the other for my old man's Jeep.

As far as costs are concerned, there's not so much as a snowball's chance in hell that I'd pay $1,000 for one set of flares including installation. I paid $363.38 per set (no installation, of course) shipped to my door. You may be asking yourself how (right?). Well, I took 4 Wheel Drive Hardware up on their price match policy after scouring the internet for a better deal. I came across some rinky looking website (or at least I had never heard of it before) that was selling the flares for a steal with free shipping. I submitted the price match request via 4wd.com and they responded with the price match. Coincidently, the other website soon upped their price to an amount considerably higher than 4wd.com :wink: . I believe this was my first purchase from 4wd.com and it surely won't be the last based on these results.

Yes, you could probably get by with 265's. I will agree you could probably run a 32 with no lift IF you bump stop the crap out it and never disconnect. Not my recommmendation but if you're only doing expedition type stuff you might be ok. Adding the flat panel flares and a 1" bl will certainly help.

I ran 265's for a few years along with a 2" OME and a 1" BL. If you do a search you can see pics I have posted on trails like Holy Cross, Spring Creek (CO), SOB Hill, and various trails in Moab. Even with only 265's I needed that much lift.

While I agree with everyone's reasoning on choosing 285's/33's over a 265/32, based on my experience, if you really believe you will not get into tougher demanding trails I believe the 265's might work just fine for you. You just need to add some lift. I would suggest adding 1" or 1 1/4" spring spacers or maybe even a 2" BB and the BL.

One other thing to keep in mind, regardless what you might read, tires are not created equal and it is possible one manufacturer's 265 might be taller while another is wider.