Rubicon Owners Forum banner

21 - 38 of 38 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
I have never driven a lifted anything until my lifted and plated N th Degree TJ, I sense that I own something very special.

So far my restoration plan of bottom side is clean, wire wheel bad spots, light sand good spots, rust inhibitors on bad spots ( not coverups, maybe ospho if I can find it), clean again, shaker can match paint, same for bottom frame black, plan subject to change. Estimate +8 hours on the web research, ROF FAQ section has a lot of distraction threads...lol

I actually like crawling around under the the Jeep looking things over and learning the existing build, so think more frequent paint visits may be a good thing, just don’t want a gobbled on mess to contend with.

Edit: Ospho youtube demonlink:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Question: can I remove the skid under the transfer plate same as transmission, or will I need to brace up the transfer case, don’t really want to go there,

if removal just effects the skid pan, are the bolts tapped into the frame, no nuts that I can tell are possible in the frame tube mounting locations?

Off to Ace Harware store for some Ospho.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
Question: can I remove the skid under the transfer plate same as transmission, or will I need to brace up the transfer case, don’t really want to go there,

if removal just effects the skid pan, are the bolts tapped into the frame, no nuts that I can tell are possible in the frame tube mounting locations?

Off to Ace Harware store for some Ospho.
There's the 6 bolts that anchor the skid to the frame, then there's also other bolts that connect the skid to the longarm brackets and trans mount. The trans/transfer case are not mounted to the frame by themselves and rely on the skid for location.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,706 Posts
As far as I can recall the skid under the transfer is also the crossmember and transmission support, you will have to support the driveline in order to remove it. As for the bolts going into the frame I believe they are factory nutserts, it has been a while since I worked on my TJ.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
539 Posts
If you ever drove one down the road - your opinion would change. Road manners were just as good as off road performance.
Maybe, I mean anything is possible, but mine does pretty well on and off road now. I tend to try to be a minimalist when it comes to the Rubicon, due to a severe lack of power. If it can come off, I take it off. If I can replace it with something lighter, I do my best to do so. Their products do look pretty swanky.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
539 Posts
Having steel skids or other weight at or near the bottom of the chassis helps to lower the center of gravity - a good situation! I changed to aluminum bumpers from steel and don't carry a 100 pound spare tire on the tailgate.
I was thinking about replacing my rockhard rear tire carrier with something of the aluminum variety, however I just love that thing so much. My last trip out I was scraping the rear tire coming out of a steep in and steep out wash. At one point I thought it was going to take the rear tire off, or maybe push it into the back glass somehow it was caught on the bank so bad, however aside from some flexing around of the carrier a little sidewall damage to the spare it still opens and closes just fine. I don't really have a front bumper, more of just a little plate for the winch and my tow-bar hook ups. I wish I could lose the spare, however I wheel alone and that's probably not a good idea.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Maybe, I mean anything is possible, but mine does pretty well on and off road now. I tend to try to be a minimalist when it comes to the Rubicon, due to a severe lack of power. If it can come off, I take it off. If I can replace it with something lighter, I do my best to do so. Their products do look pretty swanky.
My 74 CJ 5 with the v8 304 Was a dragster, my sister and I use to pop wheelies with it, in our teen years, went through a lot of rear u joints.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
Been reading on the web, how best to neutralize the Ospho, before paint, the directions divider from web, and a lot of variance on the web, so far, I have wire wheeled, degreased, twenty four hour spray on, done outside, not on concrete stuff suppose to eat a hole in concrete,

My neutralizing strategy before paint is retreat with ospho, two minutes later submerge in plain water scrub with Brillo pad like washing a car, then use a 700:1 degreaser which I am still in pursuit, then shaker can paint in one hour, maybe tonight, if wrong please help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
Here is a pic of progress so far, this is the transmission skid and the lightning disconnects which have been freed up and are now functioning,

also have new front sway bar links to go back on, old ones are shot, wonder how much difference this will make
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
This is what lightning disconnects looked like before cleaning, I been spraying them with pb blaster for weeks but the disconnect was still frozen, used a heat gun and brake cleaner for quick chill, with a brash punch and hammer plus twisting with pliers, broke free, cleaned with wire wheel
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: johncanfield

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,182 Posts
Not to rain on this parade but I have had two of those lighting disconnects. I finally threw both of them in the garbage and bought a set of JKS. Never could get the lightings to work correctly either the first version of the "improved ones."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
Rain appreciated here, I am a strong believer in listening to those that have been here before, does the JKS use the oem sway bar link? because I could still take those back
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
After 24 hours the surface was still gummy, so I resprayed with ospho, after a minute or two submerged in water tank and scrubbed with briIlow pad, removed from water tank, surface no longer gummy, sanded with fine sandpaper, cleaned with windex, let dry 45 minutes and painted, humidity about 90% , always high here, after and before pics
 

Attachments

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,777 Posts
Rain appreciated here, I am a strong believer in listening to those that have been here before, does the JKS use the oem sway bar link? because I could still take those back
I had JKS "quick" disconnects which did use the sway bar but the links are JKS as I recall. There was nothing quick about them - they were a huge PITA to use. I switched to a Currie AntiRock and never looked back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
The paint adhered very well to the plate, will do a second coat tonight, has been 48 hrs, using the exact rustoleum paint match brand etc that was mentioned earlier in this thread, pay attention to this if you are going rattle can, seems to be a lot of variation on the web about paint and outcomes with wrinkles peeling etc when using Ospho,so far my method seems to be good. Will know more a year from now.

The last two sentences in the skyco ospho web directions says paint can vary and basically not responsible for wrinkles or peeling.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,313 Posts
I have the Gen II version of the Rubicon Express discos. I was able to put the storage pins in an existing hole in the inner fender liner sheet metal above the upper spring perches. The links are out of the way and the tires don't rub on them when fully stuffed/turned. 3.5 inch lift. They are pretty easy to unhook, store, rehook when on level ground. My wife needs to pull up and down on a door a bit when it is open, gives plenty of leverage to rock the Jeep to re-connect.
 
21 - 38 of 38 Posts
Top