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Hurry up with the mods so it is ready for Colorado, you have just over 3 weeks.
 

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do ya have to change the shocks with that kit, or is it just enough to use the factory ones? id love to level out the wifes, but i havent done my homework at all on that yet, house demo and construction comes first grrrrrr
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
emarlowe39 said:
do ya have to change the shocks with that kit, or is it just enough to use the factory ones?

New shocks are not required, but I decided to get them at the last minute. Using the OEM shocks is fine from everything I have heard (and read).
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I drove my JKU over to Eastern WA Wednesday, then went up a crappy dirt road and broke 'er in correctly - 4 LOW before I had 500 miles on it!

I ran some errands again yesterday. I'm at about 812 miles now.

TODAY:


I just finished installed the Teraflex 1"/2" lift/leveling kit. I gained 1 3/4" in the front and 3/4" in the rear. It looks much better.

The front Bilstiens don't have a long enough stud to allow proper thread engagement, not to mention, there's nothing to keep the shaft from spinning as you tighten the nut. The factory shocks have a nut welded on the shaft, so you can put a second wrench in place to keep the shaft from spinning. The stud isn't the problem, it's the thick washers and poly bushings that are the problem. By the time all hardware and bushings are in place, the stud is only about 1/16" above the top washer. The top 1/4" or so of the stud isn't threaded - just like the OEM shocks. There's NO WAY to get the nut on, so I left the stock shocks on.

desertfox1 said:
New shocks are not required, but I decided to get them at the last minute. Using the OEM shocks is fine from everything I have heard (and read).
I'm returning the Bilstiens tomorrow.

Also, there's several steps in the instructions that I didn't find necessary - loosening the control arms bolts.

Front took about 4 hours, part of which was spent struggling with the shocks, then abandoning the Bilstiens. I also struggled with getting the Jeep high enough to allow enough axle droop to get the stock springs out.

The rear took 45 minutes!
 

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The Bilsteins have a hex for you to use an allen key on the top of the shaft so you can tighten the nut. Pain in the ass yes.....but doable. just letting you know....
 

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Grimmjpr said:
The Bilsteins have a hex for you to use an allen key on the top of the shaft so you can tighten the nut. Pain in the ass yes.....but doable. just letting you know....
x2. I had to use a short allen wrench to be able to get into there. I think it was like a 4 or 5mm allen wrench size.
 

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Dig the rig! Any new pics of it with the coils under it?
 
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
bbusch said:
Dig the rig! Any new pics of it with the coils under it?
I think don't I have any decent pics after I lifted it. It's really hard to tell it's lifted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I have been busy over the last two weeks, adding accessories that have been in a small pile in the garage.

I removed the stock fog lights and replaced them with spot pattern Duallys:





 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I bought an Aeroforce Interceptor gauge to install in my sPOD. I installed it as well as the sPOD interior switch module. The underhood portion of the sPOD has been in place since August.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
This morning I installed the Rigid 10" SR series light bar with an amber snap on cover. I had to special order the U-cradle to be able to mount this light bar on the AEV bumper's light tabs. The lightbar includes a small bracket for each end, but they don't come close to lining up with the light tabs on the bumper.









 

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inline6 said:
Nice

Side note, snow fun fun.

What is this snow you speak of?

Nice light! I am thinking about the same for my upper tabs on my Shrockworks front.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
A friend of mine told me about a feature of the AEV Procal that let's you program a feature to run the parking lights as DRLs. (daytime running lights).

I ordered the Procal today from Northridge. Its nice talking to a Jeep parts supplier that knows the parts they sell, and knows me when I call them. I usually end up talking to Eric or Sean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I absolutely hate the seats when driving long distances. They are too hard, and the seats are at and angle that needs refined. The front of the seat sits a tad too high and puts pressure on the back of my legs, it gets annoying after about an hour. I might put a fender washer or two under the rear seat mounts, to tilt the seat some and change the angle.

2013s have softer seats.
 

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So mastercraft seats up front, move stock fronts to the rear. Easy peasy. Or eat your wheaties and drink milk and grow a bit.

I'm not a big fan of my seats either.
 

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The Moab version seats look comfy.. if I get a JK it's going to be the last year model so hopefully they will come with an 8 speed tranny or better and comfy seats!
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
The Moab version seats look comfy.. if I get a JK it's going to be the last year model so hopefully they will come with an 8 speed tranny or better and comfy seats!
Unsure if I sill buy a pre-owned or hold out for a 2017 for my next Rubi.

Yes, I am finally admitting I sold the COD MW3 Rubi. Only took me 2 years to admit selling it.
 
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