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Discussion Starter #1
4.88s are on in the MAIL!!!

I got 2 surprise checks in the mail last night.
1 was for some computer consulting I do on the side and the other was from my Mortgage company. They escrowed too much for my taxes and sent me back the extra

Poison is soon to be a crawling WH0RE!!!!!!!!!!
 

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elff said:
4.88s are on in the MAIL!!!....

Poison is soon to be a crawling WH0RE!!!!!!!!!!
elff:
You lucky hump!

First Jim comes out with 4.56s, now you order 4.88s! What the hell am I going to have to do? Put on 37s and go to 5.12s? This is beginning to look like a nuclear arms race. :D

Seriously, that is great news. Just make sure both boxes contain 4.88s!

Let's see, 37 inch MT/Rs ought to be about a grand, gears and labor should run around $800, upgraded axles and labor.....

Jerry
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I am sticking with 35s so I can have a better crawl ratio than it was stock!
 
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Hmm, with that gearing, when those wear out, you will have to at least be tempted for 37"?? No??? lol
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am not interested in moving to 37s.
That is a little much for the Rubicon axles.
I believe I can make these last with only having to add chromoly shafts.
 
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Restraint, In a way I hope to have some of that when my 35's wear out..

Your setting a good example for me... lol
 

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I heard that you shouldn't use those gears in a brand new engine. :roll: Maybe you should send them south. Man you have one awesome rig. One day when my jeep finally grows up....
 
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Congratulations on the regear. I always thought 4.56 would be plenty for 35s the Rubi especially since you have the 4.1 transfer case.

How much does regearing cost anyway? Are you still able to use the stock lockers with your gear change?
 

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Nice...Now you won't go to fast and hit any fenders on trees... :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
2Can said:
Congratulations on the regear. I always thought 4.56 would be plenty for 35s the Rubi especially since you have the 4.1 transfer case.

How much does regearing cost anyway? Are you still able to use the stock lockers with your gear change?
It really depends more on who installs it and how much they charge.
parts will run $450 - $500 for both axles
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I think that wont be a complete kit and will need other parts.
It also sounds like the pricing you can get for the NON-rubicon regular width yukon gears. The Yukon ones for the Rubicon are thicker and from what I have heard do require a pinion to mess properly.

If that is the real deal tho, I highly suggest jumping all over it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
4.88s are Installed!!!
and
Poison is now a crawling WH0RE!!!!!!!



These Yukon thick 4.88s kick @ss.
I run 2500 rpms at 65mph so I can hit 70 and still be below 3000 rpms. That is fine by me as I only drive on the highway to get to the place I go offroad. Speedometer is now off on the high side so I will have to get that adjusted again. No Biggy. Power for stop and go traffic is incredible. HUMONGOUS improvement over what it was and slightly better than a 100% stock 5 speed. For the guys with autos, I think this is the way to go.
I can't WAIT to test these off road. I am going to be able to crawl
soooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
sssssssslllllllllllloooooooowwwwwww

I bought mine through Randy's Ring & Pinion. 2 sets of Ring/Pinion, 2 Pinion kits and 2 circular thingamabobs [seals?? I do not know what they were] ran me $550. I did not get shims, and was told by my install mechanic to not worry about them, he had them and would be able to take care of it.
My Install cost me $468. This install price included
**********
the shims I needed, [sorry didnt ask how many for each axle]
fluids for both axles,
2 bolts for my front left caliper which I had busted and didnt notice
2 front seals that were not installed after my axle was rebuilt following my accident in April this year.

So even with a little bit of extra work, my guy did them for less than $250/axle I was highly impressed that he actually inspected the rest of my suspension and drivetrain and discovered the caliper and seal issues.

Well worth the time and money
 

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I still don't know. I think 4.56 would be good enough for the auto and 35's. Good thing I have quite a while to debate this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
A couple of points, my parts cost included having the gears arrive second day and it was a heavy box full of toys.

First thing I tested was 4lo and the lockers. The only gotcha my install guy ran into was my rear pinion angle due to my lift height. He had to get the jeep pointing down to fill it with the proper amount of fluids. Other than that he had no problems.

When I picked up my Jeep, there was a SOA CJ5 there on 38s!!!!
DAYUM was that a kewl jeep.

Make sure you leave the wheel lock for your mechanic. He will need it.

I have heard from a couple of automatic owners that they were not satisfied with the Rubi's power even in stock form. When you move to 35s, the necessary gearing to get back to stock ratios is 4.64. These obviously don't exist. 4.56s will therefore be slightly under what you need and 4.88s will be higher than what you need. If you were not satisfied with the power in stock form and don't mind driving at a maximum speed of 70-75mph [I am not sure how the Auto OD effects RPMS] then I highly recommend 4.88s. If you want to drive 80-85mph and don't mind that your Rubi will perform a little weaker than it did stock, go with the 4.56s.

My decision was 100% based on Offroad Crawling and with the height of my heep, 70mph is more than enough for me.

Hand Throttle is my next mod
 

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elff said:
...First thing I tested was 4lo and the lockers. The only gotcha my install guy ran into was my rear pinion angle due to my lift height. He had to get the jeep pointing down to fill it with the proper amount of fluids. Other than that he had no problems.
elff:
Sounds like it's time to install the 1/2" NPT elbow and nipple in your fill plug hole to allow filling on the level.
lothos said:
I still don't know. I think 4.56 would be good enough for the auto and 35's. Good thing I have quite a while to debate this issue.
I respectfully disagree. See below.
elff said:
I have heard from a couple of automatic owners that they were not satisfied with the Rubi's power even in stock form. When you move to 35s, the necessary gearing to get back to stock ratios is 4.64. These obviously don't exist. 4.56s will therefore be slightly under what you need and 4.88s will be higher than what you need. If you were not satisfied with the power in stock form and don't mind driving at a maximum speed of 70-75mph [I am not sure how the Auto OD effects RPMS] then I highly recommend 4.88s. If you want to drive 80-85mph and don't mind that your Rubi will perform a little weaker than it did stock, go with the 4.56s.
I'm one of the auto owners elff has spoken with. My Rubi was a bit of a dog with the stock 31s on it. Since I changed to 33s it is a total dog on the highway. 4.56s and 33s might be OK for folks who drive in relatively flat country, but 4.88s with 35s are almost mandatory. The final drive ratio for a 5 speed in 5th gear is 0.75. OD in the automatic is 0.69. So automatics with 35s and 4.88 gears will be turning lower revs than elff is turning with his 5 speed. I haven't done the calculations yet, but it will probably be between 100 and 150 rpms lower.

And I am not comfortable driving any TJ faster than 75mph. SWBs and high speeds don't mix in my book.

Jerry
 
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