[1301311]

I have the opportunity to purchase a complete lift kit and tire set up for EXTREMELY discounted prices. Basically money is no object for this build.
So far this is what i am looking at and I would like input as to what i should add (read: what I need to add) to make this complete as possible.
I want to avoid DW and this vehicle is still my DD. I went this route keeping the fact that it is my DD and that I would like to do some decent off roading (Rausch Creek).

This is what I am thinking:

Goodyear MT/R 33x12.5R15
Black Rock Series 997 Type 8 15x8 3.75" backspacing
Currie TJ Johnnie Joint 4" Suspension
Rancho RS9000 Shocks (? I have heard mixed reviews)

Any and all contributions will be welcomed!

'04 TJ Rubi

 

[G-man]

If that lift is a short arm lift I wouldn't go more than 3'' and then use a BL to get additional room for the tires. If money no object I would do JKS arms all the way around with Terraflex 3" springs, 2' BL and 35's on 16" rims.

 

[rubitx]

No offense, but your "money is no object build" is much different than "my" money is no object build. I'd be all over a LCOG build, Hi-Line tube fenders and AEV hood, with Pro Rock 60 axles and 37's. Just to get started.

Why 33's? Guys on the forum, including myself, run 35-37's as DD!

 

[Eric]

No offense, but your "money is no object build" is much different than "my" money is no object build. I'd be all over a LCOG build, Hi-Line tube fenders and AEV hood, with Pro Rock 60 axles and 37's. Just to get started.

Why 33's? Guys on the forum, including myself, run 35-37's as DD!

x2

 

[1301311]

The LCOG build would be something that I would go for, but the discounts only apply to lifting my jeep. I'm only looking at 33s right now because i'm not ready to make changes beyond the suspension. I want to eventually get more power out of the jeep and beef up front and rear axles but it isn't reasonable for me to do that right now. The highline kit with 37s would be great but not what i've got the offer on.

@G-man: I guess this is a bit of a noob question, but why not more than 3" of lift with a short arm kit? I kinda want to avoid the BL if i can just because I am unsure about the gaps that leaves with the bumpers and how it affects the radiator.

Big draw on the Currie kit is the JJ Control Arms to avoid the bushings...

 

[lucasinpsj2]

If money was no object, my jeep would be next to Fledge in Colorado becoming a rokmen freak. Nothing says daily driver like 2" lift and 40's.

 

[sleepsontoilet]

No more than 3 due to the angle it puts your control arms. You will limit the travel due to the arms being so short. It will ride like poo in a nutshell and flex even worse. Red Dog Leader and several others run 3" springs with a small body lift. There are a ton of guys of people on here who went 4" and are lowering their jeeps. Im one of them. It's too tall IMO.

Not what I expected with the title either. I have several buddies that wheel 6 figure jeeps. I'd label this "keepin it cheap via hookup".

I DD 37's and beadlocks 50,000+ miles a year. It's not as uncommon as you think.

Good luck and post pics.

 

[G-man]

sleepsontoilet has it right, to much angle in the arms = a rough ride. I've lowered the mounting holes of the arms to decrease the angle on my arms. The BL gives you the clearance for the tires without increasing the COG as much as a lift would because not as much weight is getting higher.

 

[Chojeep]

I recommend the AEV 3" springs for a short arm kit. I think someone else on here used those with the Currie kit and had good results. I love the ride with AEV springs. I currently use Bilsteins with them and think it works great. I've used the Rancho 9000's in the past with a Teraflex kit and thought those were good also because you could dial in the ride. I would use them again.

 

[1301311]

Jeep Growing Up with a Hookup

Alright so it looks like I should lean towards 3" SL with around 1" of BL. How about other aspects of the drive quality? Do people suggest going with SYE and changing out the driveshaft? Not included in the offer but its something that I would be willing to put money into if it is suggested.

Thanks for all the input so far. Let me know if I'm :dhorse: . I've looked around to find as much info as I could before posting questions.

 

[KingRubiconMan]

Rubi's don't need a SYE. You might need a CV driveshaft though.

You might want to take a look at my build which is pretty much what you suggest (see the link in my sig below). Only difference is I'm using 10" tires, instead of 12.5". That allowed me to use the stock Moab wheels, which are very good. Skinnier tires are better anyway. Also, I don't have or need a BL/MML with this setup. That may change if I go to a tummy tuck.

What transmission do you have, and what are you going to do for diff gearing?

 

[3rivers]

With 2 or 3" of lift, you will not be as likely to need a new drive shaft.

The Rubicon NP241OR transfer case doesn't have a slip yoke - Chrysler eliminated for ya! :wink:

 

[1301311]

@King: 5 spd man with the 4.11 gears...also why i'm not trying to go huge with the tires. Your build looks almost exactly like what I am going for. I want to avoid ever having to deal with bushings again. Your jeep looks awesome now.

 

[sleepsontoilet]

I run a 4" spring with a motor mount lift so I didn't need a tcase drop, and I don't have a cv shaft or vibes.

 

[KingRubiconMan]

@King: 5 spd man with the 4.11 gears...also why i'm not trying to go huge with the tires. Your build looks almost exactly like what I am going for. I want to avoid ever having to deal with bushings again. Your jeep looks awesome now.

Thanks! I just added a an update to that thread and a new pic. Really loving this setup.

Getting rid of the rubber joints is a big win. I would strongly suggest getting the front axle housing JJ conversion kit as well. Otherwise, you'll be leaving two factory rubber bushings on your axle housing. It's relatively easy to do while you've the patient open on the table, and will be a big pain to do later. If money isn't a factor, you may as well get the Currie steering at the same time. It's monster beefy and feels great.

Since you've got the 5-speed, I would recommend holding-off on the gearing change and see how it goes. Low gears can cause driveshaft vibe issues. I just added some info on my problems with it to my build thread.

 

[chris03rubicon]

If money was no object, my jeep would be next to Fledge in Colorado becoming a rokmen freak. Nothing says daily driver like 2" lift and 40's.

mine wouldn't

 

[RCH]

If money was no object, my jeep would be next to Fledge in Colorado becoming a rokmen freak. Nothing says daily driver like 2" lift and 40's.

mine wouldn't

Why the hell not...?! Its the cool thing to do now days. :wink:

 

[1301311]

Thanks for all the help King. Your pictures are incredible btw 8) . I will most likely do the front axle house conversion. I gotta see if I my guy would include or at least discount the steering also. If I don't do anything with the steering is it going to feel labored when trying to make turns?

 

[chris03rubicon]

If money was no object, my jeep would be next to Fledge in Colorado becoming a rokmen freak. Nothing says daily driver like 2" lift and 40's.

mine wouldn't

Why the hell not...?! Its the cool thing to do now days. :wink:

So is being gay, are you going to jump on that bandwagon too? :grab:

 

[RCH]

If money was no object, my jeep would be next to Fledge in Colorado becoming a rokmen freak. Nothing says daily driver like 2" lift and 40's.

mine wouldn't

Why the hell not...?! Its the cool thing to do now days. :wink:

So is being gay, are you going to jump on that bandwagon too? :grab:

Bwahahaa, and no. :laugh:

Anyway, I think the title needs to be changed. It dosent match the build.