Nice write up Greg!! I wish that I had been as meticulous with the routing of the wires. Did those connectors come with the kit? I think someone mentioned finding them with phone wiring at Lowes but, I have been unable to even find the phone section at mine. :laugh:
Minime Rock Light install
Recently I received the Minime rock light set of 8 from [email protected] as a Christmas gift so here is a quick install writeup. Everything that you need is included. 8 Lights (have a 2foot lead of 24gauge), Wires, Circuit, 3amp fuse, switch, screws, connectors, solder links, shrinkwrap. These self-tap screws are a little weak so be sure to predrill your holes.
This took about 12 hours including the time spent under the rig trying to find where to hide the wires and the best spot/how to mount the lights.
First I started at the driver's side fender and put one light here. (I removed the turn signal to drill the holes) I spliced the end link at the top of the coolant bottle.
![]()
Next I ran the wire in a loom (even though the exterior casing is rated to 220F) and down the bottom of the grill and into the next light on the passenger side. I spliced at the headlight in the engine bay for future maintenance.
![]()
The only way to wire these is to cut the cord and use solder links (everything that you need is included with the 35ft 16g wire)
![]()
strip back a 1/2" twist
![]()
![]()
Slide on the solder ring and using a heat gun (paint stripper gun in my case,) keep moving the gun 1 inch away for about 6-7seconds until the ends close and the solder spreads into the twisted cable
![]()
![]()
Now I reached the hard part of routing the wires. I decided to route it down the battery tray and at the 2nd mount I drilled a hole and pushed the cable through the frame. The other option was to put it in the body cavity that is 6 inches away on the tub's bottom but I still had the problem of getting it out at the rear tire.
Just behind the front tire.
![]()
The wire came out an existing hole and I drilled another hole so it went back into the frame to reach the rear.
![]()
Exited an existing hole next to the gas tank skid and screwed into the body
![]()
Ran the wire over the gas tank skid (free float until I drop the skid for a permanent mount) To the other mounting side.
![]()
Ran it along side the frame on the existing gas/vapor lines
Mount at front of driver rear tire.
![]()
Mount behind driver front tire.
![]()
Now I only have 4feet left so I ran it up to the grommet and spliced in my own 16g cable to get into the cab.
From here I ran the white wire to the switch (the included 35foot wire is black and white in a sheathing,) the black straight to battery, and pulled a hot lead from the aux main into the cab for the switch. Yes, I have a lot of electronics in this rig.
![]()
Switch wiring (2 pole with light)
http://www.rubiconownersforum.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=72627
This is for constant light on the switch. I reversed the acc/load and power supply wires for the switch's light to turn on only when the lights are on.
![]()
Finished product.
![]()
I will try to get pics if they come out right.
This took about 12 hours including the time spent under the rig trying to find where to hide the wires and the best spot/how to mount the lights.
First I started at the driver's side fender and put one light here. (I removed the turn signal to drill the holes) I spliced the end link at the top of the coolant bottle.
Next I ran the wire in a loom (even though the exterior casing is rated to 220F) and down the bottom of the grill and into the next light on the passenger side. I spliced at the headlight in the engine bay for future maintenance.
The only way to wire these is to cut the cord and use solder links (everything that you need is included with the 35ft 16g wire)
strip back a 1/2" twist
Slide on the solder ring and using a heat gun (paint stripper gun in my case,) keep moving the gun 1 inch away for about 6-7seconds until the ends close and the solder spreads into the twisted cable
Now I reached the hard part of routing the wires. I decided to route it down the battery tray and at the 2nd mount I drilled a hole and pushed the cable through the frame. The other option was to put it in the body cavity that is 6 inches away on the tub's bottom but I still had the problem of getting it out at the rear tire.
Just behind the front tire.
The wire came out an existing hole and I drilled another hole so it went back into the frame to reach the rear.
Exited an existing hole next to the gas tank skid and screwed into the body
Ran the wire over the gas tank skid (free float until I drop the skid for a permanent mount) To the other mounting side.
Ran it along side the frame on the existing gas/vapor lines
Mount at front of driver rear tire.
Mount behind driver front tire.
Now I only have 4feet left so I ran it up to the grommet and spliced in my own 16g cable to get into the cab.
From here I ran the white wire to the switch (the included 35foot wire is black and white in a sheathing,) the black straight to battery, and pulled a hot lead from the aux main into the cab for the switch. Yes, I have a lot of electronics in this rig.
Switch wiring (2 pole with light)
http://www.rubiconownersforum.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=72627
This is for constant light on the switch. I reversed the acc/load and power supply wires for the switch's light to turn on only when the lights are on.
Finished product.
I will try to get pics if they come out right.
16
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
f9k9 said:
The kit came with a cheaper connection so I used a different style. I prefer these that I picked up from Home Depot for $4 since the ends have a blue ring that seals at a lower temperature. This keeps the lead in the center from blowing out the side and burning an eye lid. Lead hurts a little bit.
Clean your interior!!!!
pghsteel said:Clean your interior!!!!
Hey, at least, he still has his carpeting in there. :laugh:pghsteel said:Clean your interior!!!!
Great Job, looks good. That's almost exactly how and where I put mine as well. A couple questions-you say the kit came with a "cheaper" connector-what kind? Mine came with heat shrink solder style that melt with heat that work very well. I bought extras locally to have on hand for trailer building and they were NOT cheap by any means. You say that kit you got for 14 was only $4.00 from Home Depot? Damn-I'll have to go look as I have been using a lot of those lately and the "discounted" price I"m paying is a heck of a lot more than that.
My Jeeps has been done for a while and I have a set ready for the trailer as well. I do need a few more though so when funds are here, will likely be ordering a few more. They're a great all around light.
Oh-if your interior is diry and needs clean, I am NOT posting pics of mine!!! :rotflmao:
Best of Luck,
Mike
My Jeeps has been done for a while and I have a set ready for the trailer as well. I do need a few more though so when funds are here, will likely be ordering a few more. They're a great all around light.
Oh-if your interior is diry and needs clean, I am NOT posting pics of mine!!!
:rotflmao: Best of Luck,
Mike
[quote='05TJLWBRUBY]Great Job, looks good. That's almost exactly how and where I put mine as well. A couple questions-you say the kit came with a "cheaper" connector-what kind? Mine came with heat shrink solder style that melt with heat that work very well. [/quote]
These (heat shrink connectors) do work, but not as well as the Tyco brand that are pictures above. The tyco create a better seal due to the quicker melting plastic on both ends and I have not had the lead shoot out and burn my eye lid.
The red ring is the first to melt before the clear plastic ends start collapsing then the lead core takes over and fills in between those rings.
![]()
Are the ones included in the kit cheaper? Probably.
These (heat shrink connectors) do work, but not as well as the Tyco brand that are pictures above. The tyco create a better seal due to the quicker melting plastic on both ends and I have not had the lead shoot out and burn my eye lid.
The red ring is the first to melt before the clear plastic ends start collapsing then the lead core takes over and fills in between those rings.
Are the ones included in the kit cheaper? Probably.
Look in the telephone section with the crimpers/wall plates.
But then I will not know where all the wires go.Eric said:
Na, I have something similar that is an octopus with 8 links from a late model crown vic. Write up to follow
Any pics of this bad boy all lit up?
eyezlee said:Any pics of this bad boy all lit up?
I'll do that tonight. When I turned these on, they are not as bright as I thought for being an LED (I have a few LED strobes in this rig). Imagine an ecofriendly lightbulb that is still warming up. About 1/2 brightness would be a great similarity.
My rear most 2 lights are minimes. I love them!
![]()
f9k9 said:My rear most 2 lights are minimes. I love them!
![]()
What are the rest of your bulbs?
The camera does not really show their brightness:
![]()
![]()
2
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
