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Well all I went over to see Medic on Thurs and we got his high clearance skid up there with little problems. Set up is awesome and I love it. Had some mild vibes between 20-30mph so I set out to do away with the rear UCA knock outs. What a PITA that was!!! Ended up grinding most of it out. Anyway- after that and a small 1/4" shim down driveline vibes are nill. Once I get my Tera lift on I will order the CV DS from Tom Woods and be all set. My thanks to Medic and all his little helpers (Brasia especially) for the great products and service. Medic took some pics that I'm sure he can post since I forgot my camera (DOH!).
 

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YEA!!!!!!!!!!!!!............ :D
 

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Finally got the pictures uploaded Here We GO!






 

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thats a skid row engine skid right? i've been waiting to see a pic of that combo. i was wondering if the engine skid would be tilted up to meet the medic skid or not - looks like not!

how hard was it to bolt the two together? looks like it would be tought to reach the nuts.
 

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Mike that is not a skid row engine skid, it is mine, and the production one will look very similar. It will work with the stock skid, my belly skid and re long arm skid....Jerry
 
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digdugtj said:
Had some mild vibes between 20-30mph so I set out to do away with the rear UCA knock outs. What a PITA that was!!! Ended up grinding most of it out. Anyway- after that and a small 1/4" shim down driveline vibes are nill.
Could you please expand further about your Upper control arms, what you had to grind. I assume your talking about grinding out the UCA thru hole on the axle housing and then adding a shim to raise the pinion angle. This was in stead of adjustable upper control arms? I’m confused. No surprise.

I cant make up my mind if the Nth deg. skid is worth the extra $175 and the added installation hassle. I believe there is an extra 3/4” of clearance with the Nth deg (w/ the 1.25 drop skid) but is that worth $175 extra. Money that can be spent on a new drive shaft.

Ive been waiting until the dust settles and more fabricators come out with new products but my mouths watering, Ive never been stuck more (high centered) in this Jeep more than any other in the past.

Every thing in auto manufacturing is based on money and compromise. I can deal with most of the trade offs trying to balance cost and utility on a production unit but the stock skid plate is a black eye of the 1st degree on a jeep that is touted as the Jeep of all Jeeps.

Medic, what is your actual drop dimension below the frame rails? For those that are interested in this product or others of the same type, keep in mind that 2” of extra skid plate clearance is like an extra 2” of suspension lift. You can have a mild road friendly lift and still have the clearance of a higher, not so friendly suspension.

Medic, Looks like a nice product, now I need some one to convince me not to wait any longer.
 

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Mike Holmes said:
thats a skid row engine skid right? i've been waiting to see a pic of that combo. i was wondering if the engine skid would be tilted up to meet the medic skid or not - looks like not!

how hard was it to bolt the two together? looks like it would be tought to reach the nuts.
Mike,

I have the skidrow engine skid. It does tilt up a little to meet with Medics skid but not too much. We had to move the Skidrow skid bacl about an inch to line up with Medics skid. It only required redrilling the control arm hole. It actually fit better with the upper bracket that way.
As for reaching the nuts, I had to drop the drivers side skids to reach to of the nuts and then drop the other side to reach the 3rd. It is a tight fit up there. I will post pics as soon as I get the UCAs installed and can move it out of the garage.

Brian
 
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Brian, two questions for you, since my Medic skid will be arriving any day now. How much improved clearance over the stock skid did you get? And second, as to the problem of the nuts to attach the engine skid, my thought was that once the engine skid was lined up to the T/C skid and the holes were drilled, then the Medic skid could be removed, and the nuts could be glue-gunned onto the bottom of the inside of the skid. Then, when you put it back up, they would be almost like nut inserts, and make it very easy to insert the bolts. Is this a good idea, or a waste of time?

--David
 
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Brian, one other thought came to me regarding the movement of the skid row engine skid one inch toward the rear. In previous threads at JU, there had been a problem with that bracket comming into contact with the upper control arm if it were mounted facing the wrong way. In fact, one fellow destroyed his control arm. Now, I know that you are not facing it incorrectly, but it seems to me that if you move the skid back, it may have the same effect, moving the bracket rearward, decreasing the space available between the upper control arm and the bracket. This is only conjecture on my part, but do you see the potential issue that I am suggesting? What do you think?
 
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Instaurare said:
but it seems to me that if you move the skid back, it may have the same effect, moving the bracket rearward, decreasing the space available between the upper control arm and the bracket. This is only conjecture on my part, but do you see the potential issue that I am suggesting? What do you think?

Instaurare has a good point, may never happen "but ?" Another solution that might be a hassle if you don’t have someone who welds but you could move the Skidrow back (drill new control arm bolt hole) and on the driver side down support add a welded tab or square tubing stock to the front of the skidrow plate to make up the difference that the skid is moved back. Basicly a permanent spacer.
 
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Or another way might be to fabricate a connector plate that affixes to the end of the engine skid to legnthen it sufficiently to connect to the Medic, such that the engine skid needs not to be moved. I am going to call Eric at Skid Row on Mon and get his opinion.
 

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Mike, your right it does have some other bends to it, my first two prototypes would not work on the automatic Jeeps, so back to the drawing board I went. The picture below is close to the finale version. There will actually be 2 versions, one for the belly up skid that will work with the stock pan as well, both autos and 5-speed, bl and no bl, mm and no mml. The other version which is 2.5" shorter than the other is for the RE long arm jeeps, and I will be test fitting this to the full-traction kit as well. I am hoping to have finished product pics by this next week end...Jerry

 

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Discussion Starter #15
Pa_Rubicon: Sorry I havent been on the board in a few days but I saw your question-"Could you please expand further about your Upper control arms, what you had to grind. I assume your talking about grinding out the UCA thru hole on the axle housing and then adding a shim to raise the pinion angle. This was in stead of adjustable upper control arms? I’m confused. No surprise." Well here is what I meant. On the upper rear CA (at the axle)there are halfcircle indents that you are supposed to be able to punch out. Only 2 did this the other 2 only mangled the metal thus requiring grinding to about the same shape. Doing this effectively lengthens your CAs and allows you to adjust your pinion angle though you dont shim the axle or CA. By using a jack you gently rotate (push up on the diff with the jack to lower the driveshaft angle) the rear axle to point more towards the t-case. The shims, or spacers, were used at the t-case to lower it slightly from the frame to eliminate the last of the vibes. Let me know if you have any further questions.
 

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Instaurare said:
Brian, two questions for you, since my Medic skid will be arriving any day now. How much improved clearance over the stock skid did you get? And second, as to the problem of the nuts to attach the engine skid, my thought was that once the engine skid was lined up to the T/C skid and the holes were drilled, then the Medic skid could be removed, and the nuts could be glue-gunned onto the bottom of the inside of the skid. Then, when you put it back up, they would be almost like nut inserts, and make it very easy to insert the bolts. Is this a good idea, or a waste of time?

--David
I am guessing that I gained appx 3" as I had a 1" transfer case drop. I did not measure before and after so am not positive.
The problem with the glue gun is that the skid uses carriage bolts. They are pushed up into square holes and you can only tighten the nuts.
The Skidrow had a new bracket that mounts to the lower part of the motor mount and not to the upper part as in some pics on here that I have seen. We tried the bracket in every possible angle and direction we could and it was always at least an inch off. By moving the skid forward, it lined up to the bracket much better.
As soon as I get the rear end put back together, I will disconnect and lift the front drivers side up and see if it looks loke there will be any contact. From the way it looks now, it should be fine. But I will let you know if I find out different.

Brian
 
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