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2006 Rubicon Unlimited (LJ)
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a lift plus a TT, but I'm still running the stock rear DS on my '06 LJR.
My TC and pinion angles still match using adj.CAs, but I was wondering what is the max angle the DS joints can handle?
Hard to tell if they're turning smoothly at full droop.
 

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More than 10 degrees is unwanted.
Pay particular attention at 2:30 minutes, but listen to the whole thing…
Your answer.
A double cardan in my case, made my 14 degrees at the transfer case 7 and 7. The diff end was about 2 degrees by my wishes.
 

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Norminator gave you the perfect answer, I would just like to add that on my TJ I had a 4" lift and a tummy tuck and the stock rear axle would bind BEFORE achieving full droop.
 
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Your affirmation means a Lot. I had no clue what the physics was and felt helpless. The funny thing is when I told this to my son, a physics teacher, he knew what I was saying before I even said it. That video by Shawn Wood is gold.
 

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2006 Rubicon Unlimited (LJ)
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I haven't actually measured it, or even spun it at full droop.
It's not something that occurs very often since it mostly articulates on the trail.
 

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You may be in a situation where one wheel drops and the other one compresses the suspension, so the middle of the axle is near ride height. Jack up the Jeep and place turrets under the frame so both sides drop at the same time (or use a lift if you have access to one) then turn the driveshaft, I am willing to bet it will bind.
 
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As far as driveline angles go, angle measurements are taken on level ground at ride height. Measurements for a new driveshaft are also taken on level ground at ride height.
 

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I honestly didn’t know how it was spelled and pronounced till I saw that. I think I called it a double cardIan. It’s only one little “i“ off.😁
 

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On my TJR build I had the same issues. Norm is 100 pc correct. I went to Tom Woods double cardan shafts front and rear and have bee really happy. No more moan vibes when on the highway. Plus they are a great company. Made in USA.
 

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Tom Woods is local to me. Been to the shop a few times, seem like good folk. When he lived in Utah, Stinger made a comment or two about TW being a good company as well. Probably a 10 mile drive for me.
 

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2004 AiRubicon
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I've primarily used Tom Woods my entire Jeep career
Every time I have deviated and used a different brand, I have had issues and been disappointed.

FYI, Little Money saver. You can save some money buying your Tom Woods drive shafts via Clayton Offroad.
They sell the exact length I needed front and rear and it was slightly cheaper and with free shipping so I want to say to was almost $100 cheaper to buy through them, vs Tom Woods directly.
 

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I have used Tom Woods on most of my Jeeps as well, the exception was my JK, I went with and Adams driveshaft because I was able to get it much cheaper trough northridge, so far is being working good, I think if you stick with a reputable seller you will be OK.
 
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