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It goes into the tub cavity behind the filler neck and is zip tied to the axle breather. I just cut it off from the bundle and stuck it through the firewall as in the full relo post.
 

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any Photo's?
 

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RonByram said:
any Photo's?
Maybe later today. Have to take daughter to a B-day party.

Andy

EDIT: Here's the pics requested. The first is looking up behind the filler neck. The white plastic 'thing' is the breather from the rear axle. Normally there would be two if these (one would be the intake for the lockers). This pic was taken after I relocated it into the passenger compatment.



The next two pics are of the relocated tray itself. I sawsalled the ends of the locker tray off. Drilled four holes and mounted the entire tray on nylon standoffs on the wheel well (My ABS Tray was already being used for a remote power block).



 

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2 late nights later, and Im done with this mod. I relocated the locker pumps to the top of the wheelwell on the driver's side, as I wasn't sure if/when I may need the ABS tray for something else. I duplicated the hole pattern of the pumps, and drilled thru the top of the wheel well, vs using the mount plate like AndyR above. Had to use a couple washers for spacing, but they mounted just fine for me.

Anyone see any issues with that mount position? Its right next to the cruise control tower. Lots of room there to do most anything. Pumps seem real solid. Still using the original rubber mounts, but they are mounted directly on the wheel well.

D
 

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I also relocated mine to the inner wheel well. I used the rubber grommets from the mounting plate and used the mounting plate as a template for where to drill holes. I ran the air intake hose through the firewall into the cabin as described above. One of the things I like with this mod is that you can actually hear the pumps kick in with a whirring sound... I feel like in this location they are completely protected and it is an easy mod to do. I just had to be patient and methodical to make sure thee right wire go back to the right wire.
 

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J&J, Did you mount the pumps directly on the wheelwell? Thats what I did. THose phillips screws are a bitch to screw in tho, if you flip flop the pumps.

Also, I traced the red/whiite and brown/red wires to the connector on the firewall, and was successful in pulling those 2 wires completely out of the wiring harness that ran to the original pump location, so had the exact coloring wires. I ran them from the connector on the firewall across the engine bay, to where I mounted the lockers. I raan the ground wire from each locker pump from the firewall as well, putting a ring connector on and putting that under the grounding bolt on the firewall.

I think a lot of folks extend the wires from the original location, back to the new mount location in the engine bay. I thought that seemed like a duplicate wire run, so I traced them to the connector on the firewall and figured that if I could use the wires from that point, I would have less wire run.

Also, for the rear air line, I used a straight connector, connected the line coming from the front axle to the pumps, thus temporarily joining the 2 axles together. I then cut the air line where it ran directly under the ABS tray, took out a 2" section. Put elbow connectors on each end, and ran a 2.5" extension on each of those up into the engine bay where I mounted the lockers.

DId you use a similar approach?

Was a lot of work, electrical taping, zip tying, soldering in places, etc, but now, Im ready for the Nth TT when I get some $ together.

D
 

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I did mount them directly to the wheel well. I have had one trip since putting them there and so far so good. I like your idea of finding the wires up front, but I did it the "old way" of wiring back towards the original mounting location. I used zip ties, tape and some of the existing "wiring conduit" for lack of a better term, to run the wiring and tubing on top of the frame rail, hopefully out of harms way.

I like your plan better and may go back and try it. Thanks for the tip.
 

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DOJOHNSON

Man...i sure wish u had a few pictures....i'm gonna do that this weekend when i put my MML/BL w/ my Nth TT on.....possible any pictures (just a few :wink: )before tomorrow...that would be excellent... :D
 

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I just ordered my Nth TT just now from Northridge 4x4. Thanks Dave!!!

I did this locker mod in preparation for that.

I have a 2005 TJ Rubi, so its the short wheel base. I have a 1.25" BL and a 1" MML. No vibes. Im going to do this TT. Dave advised that 9 chances out of 10, with no lift, I may be able to get away with no vibes on a Nth TT. Sure hope so.

With regard to wanting pixs: I am happy to provide them, but I dont know how to upload them. If we can solve that part, I can go take some pixs for you.

I was walking around in the garage knowing I wanted to do this mod. Got under the Jeep and started touching everything, kept thinking about what to do, finally, I just started unplugging stuff and unbolting, and the next thing, I was deep into this stuff. Guess I just needed to get up a shot of courage. This is not a hard mod, you just have to take your time.

1. Get a 3/16" straight vacuum hose connector at your auto parts store.
2. Get (2) 90 degree 3/16" vacuum hose elbows
3. Get 6 feet of 5/32 vacuum hose
4. Get a new roll of electrical tape
5. Get LOTS of the long zip ties. I buy in qty (100) packs.
6. Get about 10 feet of that wire wrap conduit to run wires thru.
7. Permanent black marker (I used a Sharpie)
8. 15 feet of 18 gage black wire
9. Ring terminal connector

I use a soldering iron and resin core solder to join wires. I use liquid electrical coating and also follow up with electrical tape. Some use butt connectors. I prefer to solder then liquid coat and tape wrap. I know that when Im done, I wont have an issue with a wire pulling out of a butt connector. Plus my way keeps the wire size down to a minimum.

WIth no pixs, heres the mod:

1. Start by unbolting the locker bracket from the skid plate. There are 2 bolts at each end.
2. Each locker pump has its own electrical connector. Slide the red locking slide on the connector as far as you can, then grasp each end of that connector and pull them apart. NOTE: there is a tab on one end of one side of the connector that you have to depress. If you dont, these wont come apart.
3. There are 2 electrical connectors that are attached on top of the bracket as well. I slipped a screwdriver underneath each one very carefully, then twisted the handle to pop them off the bracket.
4. Take a set of diagonal wire cutters. Cut the air line going to the rear locker pump approximately 4 inches from where it goes into the pump. The rear pump is the one closest to the passenger side. While your at it, take a permanent marker and mark either on the locker pump or on the bracket, or on the electrical connector, what locker pump it is. I wrote a R on the connector and on the bracket, and an F on the connector on the Front one and on the bracket next to the front locker pump. While your at it, there is also a 1/4 inch vacuuum line going to that pump. Cut that 4" from where it attaches to the rear pump.
5. Take your cutters and do the same for the front pump, cutting 4" from where it connects to the pump on each line.
6. See the "T" connector on that 1/4" vacuum line? Save it. Your going to need it when you put all this together later.
7. Now, the locker pumps and the bracket should be free, and you should be able to remove them from the vehicle.
8. Follow the 1/4" vacuum line to the back of the Jeep. NOTE: this line is wrapped in wire wrap. This particular line is the locker vent line and travel to the rear of the Jeep where you fill it up. Push thru the plastic under the rear corner of the Jeep, and feel up there to where it is zip tied to the gas vent line or the gas filler line. Take your side cutters and cut it loose.
9. If the same zip tie is holding another line in there, thats the axle vent tube. Re zip tie that one back in there.
10. Work the 1/4 inch vacuum line you just cut loose, out of the Jeep and set it aside.
There was an air line running from the front of the Jeep to the Front Air locker pump that you cut. It runs in the wire wrap together with another wire. Find that line. Find the Air line that goes to the rear axle from the rear locker pump that you cut. Your going to join both of these together after you cut out the excess line. I discarded about 6" of line and joned the 2 ends together with the straight 3/16 vacuum tube connector.
11. I unwrapped the tape on the harness where the connector ends are. My goal was to get as much wire as I could so later, when I either ran new wire or pulled old, I could be able to splice the connector end in.
12. You will notice that the Front pump connector has a red wire with a white stripe. You also have a black wire. The rear locker connector has a black wire and a brown with orange stripe wire. Like I said, I went as far as I could up the harness to get as much wire as possible, then made the cut. The wiring harness runs over the tcase to the front of the Jeep on the passenger side. That is the direction the colored wires ran. The ground wires go to the drivers side direction. Follow those in the harness. Soon you will see that there is a splicing of several black wires. Here is where I cut as close as possible to the splice block. The black is ground, so I figured I could pick up a ground closer to the new mounting location vs running these all the way back thru.
13. Now, you should have 2 connectors with 2 wires each.
14. I followed the wiring harness going to the front of the Jeep, split it open, and looked for that red wire with the white stripe and the brown wire with the orange stripe. I proceeded to pull them out as I went every so often down the wiring harness. Real hard to do and if you pull too hard, the wires may just break, but I figured if I did it a bit at a time, it should be possible to work those 2 wires out. Where you will have to stop is just short of where the harness goes up to the engine compartment.
15. If you follow that harness up, to the back of the motor, on the firewall, you will see a big connector. On the passenger side of the connector, if you pull the connector apart and start to unwrap the electric tape, guess what? You will find the red wire with the white stripe. You will also find the brown one with the orange stripe. I unwrapped as far as I could, then tried to pull only those 2 wires thru the harness. I was unsuccessful. So, I went as far down as I could, then cut both of those wires. I went back under the Jeep, where I had been pulling the wires out of the harness, then started tugging slowly there, and the wires pulled out of the harness. Now, I have the exact same wires that were used before.
16. I retaped the harness in the engine compartment, however, singling the 2 wires I needed. I spliced the wire I had pulled out, then ran those in conduit to the wheel well, reattached the connector with the corresponding color. I also picked up the ground by taking 2 black wires, putting a ring terminal on them, then using the ground bolt on the firewall, I attached this ground wire there. Since my conduit was routing right past there, I tucked the ground wires into the conduit. Now you have all you need to complete the electrical part of this.
17. Under the ABS tray on the Drivers side, running along the frame rail to the back of the Jeep, locate that conduit that has a 3/16" vacuum line and a wire running in the conduit. This is the line that is joined in the back. Trace it to the front axle to make sure you got the right hoes. Go back directly in line under the ABS tray. Cut a 1" section out of that vacuum hose. Put a 3/16 90 degree elbow on each end. Attach 3 feet of 5/32 vacuum hose to each and route and zip tie it to the wheel well by the ABS tray. MARK these lines. You should know what the front and rear one is, and you will attach to the front or rear pump accordingly. I put a big piece of masking tape on one and wrote FRONT on it, so I wouldnt mess up.

Now I worked on taking the locker pumps off of the bracket. I marked each one before I did it. Its overkill, if you marked the connector end of the electrical wire.

I then took each pump and figured out where on the wheel well I wanted to place them. I used the wheel well as I thought I may need the ABS tray for something else, and I didnt want to redo this install.

Once I figured where I wanted the pumps, On the bottom side of the pump, I took a sheet of white paper and kept rubbing the bottom until I had an impression of where the mounting holes were. I took the Sharpie and made a mark on the paper. I took a nail and made a hole in the middle of that mark. I then flipped the paper over, set it on the wheel housing lined up where I wanted the pumps mounted, and then took my Sharpie and dotted that hole again. Now you have a mark where the hole should be drilled. I did this separately for each pump. I drilled first with a 3/16 inch bit, then finished with a 1/2 inch bit. Since the holes end up real rough, I used my dremel tool with the tungsten carbide drill bit cutter and cleaned up the holes.

Took some touch up paint. Painted the rough metal.

Put the rubber grommits thru the holes, set the metal sleeves in, screwed the pump in to the wheel well. Found I had to use a couple washers in places as the screws were real hard to get all the way in.

Being real careful, remove the remaining vacuum hose off each nippple on the pumps. You can carefully slit the line, but make sure not to cut too deep as if you score that nipple, it may leak air on the score mark.

Attched the appropriate vacuum lines to each pump.

The bigger vacuum line fitting on each pump is for the lockers to vent or release air pressure. The line you removed earlier, along with the T will be used . You willl join the 2 pumps together with the T and the rest of the line with that plastic vent on it can be routed to the passenger compartment by drilling a 1/4 inch hole in the grommit that the wire harness runs thru. Be careful not to drill any wires. I ran enough vent hose so it went into and ran it up the dash a bit.

OK. I know this seems like a lot of blah blah blah, but once you get going this will all make sense. Sorry I have no pixs tho.

Hope this helps if you get stuck somewhere.

Doug
 

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Since my previous post, I've relocated the pumps to the ABS tray. The ACU for the AiROCK now sits on the wheel well.

Andy
 

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AndyR said:
Since my previous post, I've relocated the pumps to the ABS tray. The ACU for the AiROCK now sits on the wheel well.

Andy
AndyR,

Can it be done the other way around: Putting the Airock ACU in the ABS tray and leaving the pumps on the wheelwell? In other words, whats the benefit of redoing it?

THanks
 

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dojohnso said:
AndyR said:
Since my previous post, I've relocated the pumps to the ABS tray. The ACU for the AiROCK now sits on the wheel well.

Andy
AndyR,

Can it be done the other way around: Putting the Airock ACU in the ABS tray and leaving the pumps on the wheelwell? In other words, whats the benefit of redoing it?

THanks
If I need to pull/cap lines from the ACU, it was going to be easier with the lines sat on top of the wheel well, rather than reaching down into the ABS tray, which is now partially obscured by the coelescing (sp?) filter.

Or......put another way, I've seen the ACU need more attention on the trail than the locker pumps :eek:

Andy
 

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Makes sense. WHen I go to Airock, I will need to rethink my setup then.

Thanks for the feedback.

D
 

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In Cab

I mounted my Pumps under the driver seat, away from heat and water .
Excelent location.
will post some pictures soon.
 

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I bought a pair of Rubi axles for my 98' XJ, I'm also moving the Rubi t-case from my 91' XJ with HP44/35 spline 9" and 37" MTRs to my 98' XJ because it has a 5 speed manual and the 91' wheeler has a auto trans.

I figure I can be on this site because I will have a Rubicon Cherokee XJ by the time I get the Rubi axles under it as well as the 241 t-case!

I'm thinking of putting the pumps under the rear bench seat location in my XJ and mounting my switches in the glove box or the cigarette tray door. Trying to keep my XJ a sleeper on 33" BFT MTs!!! :rotflmao:
 

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Welcome to the ROF!
 

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I relocated mine to the aux tray...i beleive they're cooler here than under the shield/transfer case as it does get pretty damn hot under there...and they will suffer little if any damage. Which was a major concern of mine considering they sit in a bad spot..getting wet all the time..elements, branches etc. They're safe now.. :D And the mod was easy..got it from: ROF where else.. :D



 

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I wanted to revive this post to find out if anyone knows where I can find the Mopar pump or an aftermarket part. Its the rubicon, 04 to 06 locker pump, part number 5127836AA. Its discontinued. Need some to drive my front lockers.
 

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Did you check rock auto?
I would think substitute pump could be found and used, even an aquarium air pump may be able to be used.
I am on my bike, and have not looked at the circuit to see if the pressure switch is internal or external of the pump.
It should not be difficult to find a sub.
 

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The OEM lockers only need about 5 psi but the trick is finding a pump that's 12V.
 
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