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Discussion Starter #1
Finally got the BDS Coils, JKS Upper/Lower Control Arms, JKS Front Track Bar, JKS Disconnects, Currie Rear Track Bar, Teraflex Swaybar Links/Bumpstops, Rancho RS9000X shocks, and various other little bits and pieces installed.

It took me approximately 3 partial days to complete the installation by myself. During this period, I learned I didn't order some parts correctly and didn't fully understand the details of what I was doing. Here is what I learned:

Front bumpstop extensions must be mounted on the base/bottom of the coil spring pad rather than as an extension to the the top cup. If you go with a top cup extension, it will definately contact the coils during flex. I will order new bottom mount extensions and replace before I go off-road.

I did not find any coil spring clips on either coil, and since my new coils were a larger diameter than the stock ones, I could not fit these coils inside the pocket at the end stop, all I could do is butt them up tight. Does anyone think this will be a problem once I put new spring clips on?

My Goodridge extended brake lines did not come with new compression washers, so I had to re-use the old ones. No leaks, but I will order when I order the spring clips since no autoparts store carried any copper washers that would fit.

The Rear Currie track bar johnney joint end has a slight bend that can be installed 180 degrees out if you are not paying attention. This would definately cause some binding and premature wear.

If you bounce the front and rear suspension a few times after all of the JKS control arms are installed, the axles center themselfs within a 1/16" to the frame and the the track bars are then very easy to install - the only really easy part of the alignment I had.

When I went to to align my driveshafts, I learned that my Sears Craftsman protractor would not read the pinion angle correctly. I had mated the magenetic base to the outside of the pinion surface rather than the flat u-joint surface. Big mistake. Since these surfaces did not truely represent the correct angles, I spent a few trial and error adjustments until I realized that a socket sitting on the u-joint surface, in between the protractor and surface, would give me the correct readings. After quite a few iterations, I finally dialed in the angles and eliminated the vibrations!!

The Teraflex shock extensions came with SAE bolts and this worked well with the stock shocks. Then I upgraded to the Rancho RS9000X shocks, and since these only came with 2 different metric bushings, off to the store again to buy more parts.

Weld wheels and 33"x12.5" BFG MT KM's come this week and hopefully I won't have any issues with these.

Wheelbase is 1/4" shorter after the lift. No bump steer, pulling, or vibrations - stock driveshaft and no TC lowering.

I am sure I missed some key points and I will try post these once I remember them.

All in all, I like what I have, though I'm sure I will I will find issues once I actually test it.

Have a great day!

Ken
 

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Congrats Ken.. Welcome to the dark side....

Now enjoy your creation...:D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks LILRDJP. When you installed your springs, could you get them to slip into the end-stop pocket like the stock springs were mated?

Also, did you have any spring clips on your front end? I didn't have any so I am going to order and add these to mine since I could not get the springs to fit in the pocket.

Thanks in advance and if anyone has any insight to these questions, please post.

Ken
 

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Bump stops catching on the springs can be avoided with longer control arms. If your upper and lowers are adjustable you can extend both the same amount to center the tires in the fenders while maintaining pinion angle. Do this front and rear to get your wheel base back to normal.

Springs just butt into place - totally normal. Get the clips and put them on.

Using a socket to get the correct pinion angles - yep, that's the way the mechanics do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Mud Puppy. The wheelbase is 1/4" less than stock and the rear is centered very close. As for the front, I used the spacer between the cup and frame mount, so this becomes makes for a very long bump stop. What needs to be done, is for me to take the springs back off and mount a bump stop spacer on the bottom of the spring pad. This will create less of a long arm to catch - I guess that's why all of the other kits do it this way. I should have been paying closer attention to the things I thought were a no brainer.

I definately plan to put the clips on, I was just surprised my original springs mounted in the hole at the end and there were no spring clips.

I wish I would have used the socket from the start, I wasted about 4 hours measuring from the pinion face and going against my intuition and kept making the vibrations worse.

Finally a light came on and I figured it out.

Have a great day!

Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Will do. I am very happy with the quality of everything I have installed so far. Have a great day!

Ken
 

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This is an excellent writeup Ken. It has many practical details someone attenpting similar work would need. Congrats on the new goodies.

Jerry
 
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